Mamo Motorsports Ported Throttle Body

[xc_SS/RS]

So I picked up a new ported throttle body from Mamo Motorsports. It’s an aftermarket 90mm unit just like stock but the shaft is 30% thinner than the OEM unit. This means you get more airflow at WOT. Not sure how much more but I’m sure it’ll be noticeable.

Got it this weekend and put it on and was instantly amazed. I ported my original Tb myself and I thought I did a good job. Nope! This new one blows it out of the water no problem. I don’t want to call it telepathic but man it’s close. I find myself using too much throttle now when changing gears or pulling off from a stop it’s so responsive. Cruising is better as well. I can hold speeds much easier with less throttle input.

I put it on and let Tony know what I thought of it and he called me and asked a few questions to be sure I liked it. The call surprised me but it was good and showed that he cares about his products and customers. He’s a great guy and he knows a lot and is willing to explain things in detail and in a way to make it easy to understand.

I highly recommend it from Mamo Motorsports! Good price too, $400 and it’s brand new, no core charge.

Last pic is my old Tb, I will post a side by side shot or two later when I pull it off my laptop.

Edit: wanted to add in that after some trial and error that I was able to make the throttle body work without it throwing a CEL by disabling the diagnostic test for P0101, P0106, and P0121. I got a P0121 3-4 times and finally disabled the test using HPTuners. So far so good

[xc_SS/RS]

I’ve had it for over a week and no issues to report. Still getting used to how sensitive the throttle is

I think my MPG’s went up slightly

[Bigdumogre]

The new version 2 will be available hopefully soon and awaiting that one to come out. Glad everyone likes them so I know it worth the wait

[xc_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by Bigdumogre

The new version 2 will be available hopefully soon and awaiting that one to come out. Glad everyone likes them so I know it worth the wait

hopefully it happens soon!

[xc_SS/RS]

Update: bad news, my new throttle body is bad. Did some logging because the car felt funny while driving, and because I got a p0121 engine code. During a WOT run I found that the new throttle body will not hold 99.6% open like the OEM unit does. I also think in general the electronics aren’t as good as GM’s because while idling when hot the GM Tb holds 3-4% open while this aftermarket unit sits at 0.3%. I’d try sticking to GM or ACDelco throttle bodies and not aftermarket units, unless it’s something from Nick Williams, or Katech. Those two I think are the few so far with good aftermarket units because they’re likely made here in the USA with good electronics.

Unfortunately I painted mine because I thought I was in the clear. So I don’t know if he will do anything for me. If not, oh well, it’s my fault for painting it.

His work is top notch, he’s a honest guy and I still recommend him/his work. Just not this throttle body he sells lol

YMMV

[InFiD3ViL]

Can you swap over the motor side of the TB from your old unit, this way you are not out all that cash? Usually the motor/electronics side is not touched on these ported TBs, so I would imagine that would be safe if the casting is identical. You just need a security bit set to crack open your OEM unit.

I would at least give it a try since you can use your reliable OEM motor with your new ported Mamo side.

[CamaroDreams76]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Can you swap over the motor side of the TB from your old unit, this way you are not out all that cash? Usually the motor/electronics side is not touched on these ported TBs, so I would imagine that would be safe if the casting is identical. You just need a security bit set to crack open your OEM unit.

I would at least give it a try since you can use your reliable OEM motor with your new ported Mamo side.

You absolutely can do that. Its 4 torque screws and I did it on my current TB. Fixed the issue I was having.

[xc_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Can you swap over the motor side of the TB from your old unit, this way you are not out all that cash? Usually the motor/electronics side is not touched on these ported TBs, so I would imagine that would be safe if the casting is identical. You just need a security bit set to crack open your OEM unit.

I would at least give it a try since you can use your reliable OEM motor with your new ported Mamo side.

Nah I tried that there’s some sorta pin that locates the electronics of the aftermarket Tb. That was my first thought too so I ran out, got bits and tried it. Was a little nervous of things going flying when I took the motors off lol

[lazerlemonta]

We took mine apart when we ported it. It really is no big deal.

[lazerlemonta]

If your not comfortable run it up to Doug and I am sure for a few dollars he would swap them for you

[xc_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by lazerlemonta

If your not comfortable run it up to Doug and I am sure for a few dollars he would swap them for you

Nah I’ll take a picture and post it later. I took the electrics off of both and they’re pretty different inside

I’ll post some logging screenshots too, the AM Tb doesn’t hold fully open at WOT. It fluctuates by roughly half a percent and while idling it sits at 0.4% open vs 3-4% open for the GM Tb. It’s really odd and makes me think there’s a definite TPS issue

I also ended up pulling one of the brass threaded inserts out on each of my intake manifolds. No clue how that happened and I don’t think it’s at all related to this lol but I’m getting pretty good at swapping the manifold/Tb

[lazerlemonta]

Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS

Nah I’ll take a picture and post it later. I took the electrics off of both and they’re pretty different inside

I’ll post some logging screenshots too, the AM Tb doesn’t hold fully open at WOT. It fluctuates by roughly half a percent and while idling it sits at 0.4% open vs 3-4% open for the GM Tb. It’s really odd and makes me think there’s a definite TPS issue

I also ended up pulling one of the brass threaded inserts out on each of my intake manifolds. No clue how that happened and I don’t think it’s at all related to this lol but I’m getting pretty good at swapping the manifold/Tb

Actually if it sat at 4% like the GM one it would idle at 2800 RPM. When we ported mine to the extreme side I had to command the idle to only have a narrow amount of movement in the blade due to cutting out all of the IAC hump. I think your paranoid lol The code is likely due to a correlation issue in the amount of air/tpms/maf calculation. You can fix that

[Bigdumogre]

On the website he states it’s OEM. Is it not?
Was about to message him to see if the v2 is ready, but if it’s not OEM unit he ported I may go somewhere else.

[xc_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by lazerlemonta

Actually if it sat at 4% like the GM one it would idle at 2800 RPM. When we ported mine to the extreme side I had to command the idle to only have a narrow amount of movement in the blade due to cutting out all of the IAC hump. I think your paranoid lol The code is likely due to a correlation issue in the amount of air/tpms/maf calculation. You can fix that

You’ll have to show me which tables to adjust on the tune and I’ll see if it fixes things. I want to run it if it’s ok lol I’ve also never seen my GM Tb close a little and then open back up a little during a WOT run. Maybe that’s also related to these tables

Did you turn off the check for p0121 on the engine diagnostics tab? Been tempted to do that, but not sure if it’ll turn on limp mode eventually

yeah I think it’s because the map sensor sees pressures that would normally be associated with a tps position that is 3-4% higher than the pedal is registering. And yes I’m paranoid lol

Originally Posted by Bigdumogre

On the website he states it’s OEM. Is it not?
Was about to message him to see if the v2 is ready, but if it’s not OEM unit he ported I may go somewhere else.

He’s got an OEM option but I wanted the thinner shaft that the aftermarket Tb has so I chose that option.