Drive Cycles for Readiness Complete?

[freemaSSon]

HOLY MOTHER OF GOD!

For heavens sake how long does it take for these silly codes to finally reset.

I have searched every where for the drive cycle sequence to try and get it all done by the book if anyone knows the required cold to hot and back to cold key cycles and any required events for a key cycle to be useful in the readiness test.

The EVAP, Non-heater O2 and fuel system rediness are still incomplete after a tank of gas and at least 7 or 8 cold to run temp and back to cold cycles.

WOW! this is nuts and I'm driving with an expired sticker. Naturally it completely escaped me that I had reset all the readiness test everytime I flashed the ECM. I made a flash and drove straight to the inspection house, DUH! Now a week later and 1.5 tanks of gas still 3 test to show complete.

[RSKUSTOMZ]

Anyone else ever figure this out?

[GVA 45TH 2SS]

Ryan try these
General Motors (specific) OBD II Drive Cycle

Performing a GM OBDII Driving cycle:
Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at startup.
Do not leave the key in prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire, and - if closed loop is achieved- Fuel Trim.
Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.



Or more in depth
Step One: Double Check Vehicle Preparation

Have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full. Some systems, especially the EVAP system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. If the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all.
The vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery. If you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (PCM) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the Drive Cycle. Also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run.
The vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temperature is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests.
The keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition. Also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed.
Step Two: Repeat the Basic Drive Cycle

Follow the Basic Drive Cycle steps faithfully. Make sure to keep the speed on the freeway between 55 and 60 mph for a minimum of five miles. Please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed and stay in the right lane for safety reasons.
Step Three: Take Note of Which Drive Cycle Monitor(s) Did Not Complete


Drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes. They should do this as a courtesy and for free.
If all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.
If your monitors are not "ready," then take note of them.
If a Check Engine Light illuminated and/or a pending code was set, the repair shop who worked on your vehicle did something wrong. They need to re-do their work, for no additional charge, unless a totally new and unforeseen trouble code has occurred.
Step Four: Prioritize Which Monitor to Address

In most cases, the three continuous monitors will complete. These constantly monitor the sensors, the fuel mixture, and the occurrence of misfires.
If the oxygen sensor heater monitor is not ready, check to see how many other monitors are not ready. If the oxygen sensor and catalyst monitors are also not ready, the culprit is most likely a weak battery. If your battery is more than four years old, replace it and re-run the Drive Cycle. Even though your car may start just fine, the PCM is hypersensitive to the slightest glitch in the battery. It will suspend the Drive Cycle if it is not happy with any aspect of battery performance and/or charging system performance.
If only the oxygen sensor heater monitor is not ready, but the oxygen sensor monitor, catalyst monitor, EVAP monitor, secondary air system (if applicable), and EGR system (if applicable) are ready, then, in almost all cases, the heater monitor will eventually set and be "ready." When a heater circuit is getting old, it can be one of the last monitors to pass. But if the oxygen sensor and catalyst monitor are ready, then the heater has to be working or the other two monitors would fail and set codes.
If the EVAP monitor is not ready, verify that your fuel cap is tight and the level of fuel is between 1/4 and 3/4 full. If all the other monitors are ready, then do a couple more "cold" starts. If the EVAP monitor still has not passed or set a pending or present code, then take your vehicle to a shop that employs technicians who are familiar with the Mode 6 Diagnosis.
If none of the other monitors set, you should also take your vehicle to a shop that truly understands Mode 6 Diagnosis.

[probie]

So, the gist of this is how long could it take for these to be met? (Considering you've done each step by step.)

[ChibiBlackSheep]

I thought regardless it would be roughly 3 full drive cycles AND 300 miles.

If your readiness still isn't right, did the tune change the readiness state, instead of saying "Do Not Report" for the codes you were deleting?

Did you try to change a sensor reading at all? Might have affected the readings of those too.

[Iron Lung Jimmy]

Hopefully by now OP's codes have reset.

[hammdo]

Originally Posted by Iron Lung Jimmy

Hopefully by now OP's codes have reset.

LOL...

-Don

[christianchevell]

I thought it was 70 miles and several drive cycles after following the directions..... basically driving at 55.... on the slow lane of the highway off and on.......

[Bansheemike]

If you have extenders on the post cat o2 sensors take them off. They'll never heat up enough to go into closed loop.

[probie]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

I thought it was 70 miles and several drive cycles after following the directions..... basically driving at 55.... on the slow lane of the highway off and on.......

The mechanic that I spoke with yesterday said 100, but sounds like it's right in there with what you're thinking. From the way he described it Texas requires ~100 miles from the time the codes were reset to make sure that the issue was resolved.

Personally I just bought an ELM327 OBD-II Wireless for $12 and the OBD Fusion app for $10. From my understanding I can see what hasn't been cleared with the app as well as clear any codes, etc.. My biggest thing is just making sure the sensors are reset without having to guess.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by Bansheemike

If you have extenders on the post cat o2 sensors take them off. They'll never heat up enough to go into closed loop.

^^Wrong ... I have O2 extenders on both sides of my HF cats (with short hdrs) and my readiness monitors all went green after I reset the CEL code and followed the GM drive cycle per post#3 ...yea it's a PITA

[ChibiBlackSheep]

Originally Posted by camguynj

^^Wrong ... I have O2 extenders on both sides of my HF cats (with short hdrs) and my readiness monitors all went green

Everyone's cars react differently to these things. It is a good place to check if you are running into issues, and are running extenders.

So many variables, it is good to keep everything in mind.

[Scalded Dog]

Once the drive cycles have been successfully completed, there should not be any need for certain number of miles to ALSO be driven (you can check to see if you are "all clear" with an OBD reader... it'll show which tests have been completed, and which are still pending. Once you have a bank of solid indicators (not flashing), you are golden). Driving a few hundred miles will USUALLY reset all things, but, if the required conditions are not met, by chance, it could take MANY hundreds of miles (I once spent 600 miles driving around, aimlessly, pointlessly, to reset the flags, before I learned about the drive cycle).

The drive cycles can be difficult to meet, though: For example, running at exactly 55 MPH, followed by deceleration without touching the brakes or the clutch or the gears can be tricky when traffic has other ideas regarding how you ought to be driving. You'll generally need some wide open highway, with no other traffic, including some level (or better, uphill) stretch to decelerate. In Southern CA, it's no easy feat meet the requirements. However... even if I have to go out in the middle of the night, in order to find a road with no traffic, beats the hell out of driving around for 600 miles, HOPING that the thing clears its codes.

[hammdo]

This is what I did for the EVAP Readiness Monitor...

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=627

-Don