First track experience with my 1LE

[marathonmann]

Hey guys, got a chance to do my first track day with the 1LE earlier this week and wanted to share some thoughts and ask for some advice for my next one. Overall I was very happy with the way the car performed. I'm coming from a 2015 tuned WRX so it was obviously different. It took me a few runs to warm things up before I dared take the traction/stability control off. I must confess I did end up turning off the traction control but left the stability control on since I'm still learning the car. 2 things I did not like were the seats (not enough bolstering and slippery leather) and the lack of headroom with the sunroof. (had to sit uncomfortably low with a helmet) Will turning the stability control off and going full "competition mode" make a big difference ? Also, what do you guys recommend for pads when the time comes to replace them. Any tips/advice from experienced track guys is appreciated

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by marathonmann

Hey guys, got a chance to do my first track day with the 1LE earlier this week and wanted to share some thoughts and ask for some advice for my next one. Overall I was very happy with the way the car performed. I'm coming from a 2015 tuned WRX so it was obviously different. It took me a few runs to warm things up before I dared take the traction/stability control off. I must confess I did end up turning off the traction control but left the stability control on since I'm still learning the car. 2 things I did not like were the seats (not enough bolstering and slippery leather) and the lack of headroom with the sunroof. (had to sit uncomfortably low with a helmet) Will turning the stability control off and going full "competition mode" make a big difference ? Also, what do you guys recommend for pads when the time comes to replace them. Any tips/advice from experienced track guys is appreciated

What track are you running at?
Could you feel the stability control engage at all?

If you are fast and you are near any lateral slip or throttle on oversteer, you will feel the nannies engage. It will pull on one of the rear brakes to settle things down or it will reduce the power.

You can go to Competitive Mode and it will relax these a touch, but again, it will reel you in if you go beyond the computer's thresholds. AS long as you are not a nut behind the wheel and overdriving, turning everything off is faster.

My suggestion is to go to Competitive Mode and learn the car. If you are smooth but fast you can still have the computer reel you in, usually throttle oversteer. If you are confident in your abilities, then go for all off. Press and hold button for 5+ seconds. The traction control and stability control icons on the dash will light up. But be aware that all off means you might just go for a ride or two till you find the limit.

I run all off, my car is very well balanced, I can move that balance around with a change to the alignment or rear anti-roll bar, but the resolution on the balance is very tight. The last 3 track days it has been towards oversteer, but it breaks away very progressively and is very fun!

As for brakes, it depends on your tolerance on noise (squeel), dust, how many times a year you will track it, and cost of buy-in of an aggressive pad. Before you think about a track pad, make sure you have better cooling, and can commit to maintenance (fluid) of them. The Camaro might be harder on brakes than your WRX.

Brake pad choice is going to bring alot of different suggestions. Myself, I run Raybestos ST43 pads. Expensive, but they last a long time. Very dusty, that doesn't bother me, noisy, when running in abrasive mode with the transfer layer gone, they squeel alot on the street. Again, #becauseracecar. I have never faded them and you need better cooling as they run hot. I brake late, and that helps minimize heat soaking. They are a true race pad. So with the higher heat comes the need to have a great fluid. Castrol SRF or what I now run, Brembo HTC64T.

[olblue75]

If you can find a Z28 brake cooling duct kit there’s a few threads on installing them in the early cars an work pretty good, look in the Road Course sub forum. An maybe do a ZL1/Z06 caliper upgrade on the front.

[marathonmann]

Thanks for all the input guys, much appreciated. First off, I'm just an amateur track guy that just does a couple events per year for fun. I was running at New York Safety Track here in upstate NY (nyst.com) 2.1mile track here in upstate NY. I will definitely run in competition mode next time as I could feel the nannies kick in occasionally as well as the ABS. I could smell the brakes getting hot also but other than that it was great. I asked about pads since I just put new tires on it and figured pads would be next. Doing only a couple events per year I definitely don't want a full track pad, was thinking of something like the Stop Tech Sport pad or something like that. Thanks again !

[olblue75]

I run the stock Brembo pads from a C7 Vette on my 2010 Camaro (6 piston calipers) and of course they are stock on my C7 Grand Sport. I run NCM at Bowling Green an I’m pretty happy with stock pads but motor is still stock for now so the factory pads might not cut with another 125 hp.

[demonspeed]

I did my first track day earlier this month. I actually lost my brakes due to boiling my fluid. I also began to melt my front pads (ever so slightly). This was with DOT3 fluid of unknown date, OE rotors with 80k miles, and half-worn Wilwood Promatrix pads.

Like yourself, I do not expect to become a track rat anytime soon, but I wanted to upgrade so that I had improvements on the street, for autocross (which I’m not a huge fan of, but it’s significantly more affordable than track days), and whenever I made it back to the big course! Here’s what I’ve done to prepare for the next TNiA in a week:

1) Redline RL600 brake fluid
2) Separate clutch fluid reservoir
3) Stoptech stainless braided hoses
4) Centric high-carbon rotors
5) Raybestos ST43 pads (w/Centric caliper hardware)

I will work on a cooling duct setup over the winter - specifically something that dumps air behind the rotor/hub. Depending how the ST43’s are, I will likely just run them all the time even though they’re a race pad. If I can’t stand the noise/dust/feel on the street, I’ll get a street pad to swap in since it’s easy enough to do a pad change on these (and street pads are significantly cheaper).

Not sure what new tires you went with, but it’s my understanding 200 tread wear rating is ideal for a street tire that can also hang on the track. I went with Supercar 3 (non-R) with 305 in the rear. They’ve been great on the street, autocross and the track day I just did. I make almost 500rwhp, yet I stay planted (the solid cradle & offset diff bushings, and toe & trailing arms help too).

Lastly, I started my track day with all nannies on as it was raining. That cooked my rear brakes, and my rotors were a beautiful shade of blue and purple lol. I did my second session in competition mode - and then lost my brakes halfway through that session. I’m not sure if I’ll go full off for my next track day since I truly don’t know how the car will behave when I’m fully in it (dry track and good brakes). FWIW, I do autocross full off since it’s such low speeds and generally nothing to smash into.

Unfortunately, you’re sorta screwed with the headroom thing. Not sure why they offered a sunroof for a track car. I know a guy who fabricated lower seat brackets to help with his helmet sunroof headroom issue.

Good luck on whatever stuff you decide to try!

[Trawz]

These cars are a hell of a good time on the track.
Coming from a highly modded SAAB 9-3 Turbo, it was a big transition.

I'm like you and do track days 3-5 times a year for fun.

I run at Portland International Raceway. It's a fast track and the back "straight" isn't straight at all, so I have kept her in Competitive Mode most of my track days. Plus because it's a fast track, its hard on the stock brakes.
Running steel braided lines and upgraded to EBC Yellow pads last year. They worked better then stock but coming into the turn one hairpin at 140+, she wasn't slowing as hard as the smaller/lighter cars around me. Had a few scares and had to use the escape road a couple times.
This year, I upped to the Z06/ZL1/CTS-V 6 piston calipers and 2 piece rotors with Hawk Street/Track pads. Also swapped to MOTUL RBF600 brake fluid.
Now she stops hard enough to pull the makeup off the wife's face! Much more confidence in holding speed and braking later. Shaved 4 seconds off my best with just the brake upgrade.
Brake cooling will probably be next on the list to do with the Z28 kit.

As for tires, I run Nitto Invo's and they do well for a street tire with a 260 tread wear rating. Have 2 seasons on them and they have plenty of meat left.

The seats are another weak point. I find myself bracing with my knees to hold myself, but its not terrible. Might be looking into some Croteau racing seats for next year which will help fit the helmet a bit better too, but it is not a high priority.

It really will become a rabbit hole. Haha!
I recommend a good street/track pad (like Hawk, EBC or Stoptech), braided brake lines, and defiantly swapping out the factory DOT3 fluid for Motul RFB600 would be a great start!

Good luck and enjoy it!

[marathonmann]

Thanks again guys for all the tips and advice. I will definitely run in competition mode next time and change brake fluid. I'll keep an eye on the pads. My car only has 14k miles and 1 track day so they still look ok. I am running the Bridgestone RE70 R2's which are a 140 treadwear, but they are run flats so they're heavier than hell with a super stiff sidewall. I also want to get long tube headers, hi flow cats and a tune