[vtirocz]

I researched several different options for lifting the Camaro and this is what I've found to be best. I thought I'd share in case this helps others. Either in their effort to keep weight down or to encourage people to get service done at the dealer, the lift points on the Camaro are not very accessible and in some cases it appears even dealers and shops don't know where to lift and are causing damage. Since I perform all maintenance at home, I wanted a solution to lift all 4 wheels off the ground so I could bleed the brakes or do any other maintenance with ease.

Here's what I ended up with:

• QuickJack 7000 EXT (watch for sales!)
• Homemade wooden pads (in place of "squishy" rubber blocks that come with the QuickJack) to elevate and position the hockey puck / magnetic pinch weld adapter. See pictures.
• Hockey pucks (4): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• 3" Magnetic pinch weld adapter (4): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• Weatherstripping I had laying around to assist in keeping magnetic pinch weld adapter + hockey puck centered and attached to pinch weld (this actually is not needed, but I didn't want to rely only on the magnets while positioning the jacks). See 2nd to last picture.

I didn't like the rubber blocks that came with the QuickJack, so I ended up just making some blocks out of wood to adapt/locate the pinch weld adapter/hockey puck (see pictures). With the hockey puck adhered to the pinch weld adapter, there's plenty of clearance to mate up to the QuickJack. Also, this solution allowed me to lift from the front-most and rear-most lift points as specified in the manual. If I had gone with the non-EXT QuickJack model, I would only be able to reach the rear-most front lift point which I wasn't a fan of. With the current setup, it's easy to position the jacks in the same spot each time and lift the car quickly. The 7000 model is definitely overkill for the Camaro, but I wanted some margin to be able to lift our SUV. Before going under the car, I always put jackstands under the front and rear of the QuickJack for cheap insurance even though it's mechanically locked in place!

Here's a video of the QuickJack in action as well as some pictures of this setup:

• Video:
• Pictures:

[2SS Capt]

You have your QuickJacks on the wrong sides, the locking mechanisms are supposed to be outboard of the car (not inboard)... (i.e. your LEFT QJ is on the right side in your pictures and vise versa)... The car should move forward when you lift, not backwards...

See image below:


I have the QuickJack BL-5000SLX ($1,179 at Costco) and it works great on my 2020 2SS, I bought some rubber blocks from Summit Racing and cut new slots into the rear blocks to fit better and it works great, have had the Camaro in the air several times without any issues...

[vtirocz]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

You have your QuickJacks on the wrong sides, the locking mechanisms are supposed to be outboard of the car (not inboard)... (i.e. your LEFT QJ is on the right side in your pictures and vise versa)...

See image below:


I have the QuickJack BL-5000SLX ($1,179 at Costco) and it works great on my 2020 2SS, I bought some rubber blocks from Summit Racing and cut new slots into the rear blocks to fit better and it works great, have had the Camaro in the air several times without any issues...

I was hoping no one would notice that Since the locking mechanisms are easily accessible even on the inboard side, I left it as is since I already had it in position. Typically I always have the locking mechanism on the outboard side.

One question though: What's the reason you say the car should move forward when being lifted and not backward? With my garage setup, I specifically set mine up to move backward to give more room while working.

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by vtirocz

I was hoping no one would notice that Since the locking mechanisms are easily accessible even on the inboard side, I left it as is since I already had it in position. Typically I always have the locking mechanism on the outboard side.

One question though: What's the reason you say the car should move forward when being lifted and not backward? With my garage setup, I specifically set mine up to move backward to give more room while working.

Because that is the direction the car moves when you have the Quick Jacks in the correct position...

[vtirocz]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

Because that is the direction the car moves when you have the Quick Jacks in the correct position...

That’s not accurate. Normally I have them with the locking mechanism on the outboard side, but still set up to lift rearward. I agree the locking mechanism should be outboard (I realized this while I was lifting it, but it has no functional difference other than being less convenient to lock). I’m not sold yet though that it matters if the lifting direction is forward or backward. I think either way is acceptable and lifting backwards in my garage allows for more space to work while in the lifted position. Let me know if I’m missing something here.

Normally I’d have mine positioned like this (locking bar outboard, lifting backwards):

[Trochoidal]

Originally Posted by vtirocz

I researched several different options for lifting the Camaro and this is what I've found to be best. I thought I'd share in case this helps others. Either in their effort to keep weight down or to encourage people to get service done at the dealer, the lift points on the Camaro are not very accessible and in some cases it appears even dealers and shops don't know where to lift and are causing damage. Since I perform all maintenance at home, I wanted a solution to lift all 4 wheels off the ground so I could bleed the brakes or do any other maintenance with ease.

Good post with a touch a DIY. Thanks for sharing. Lift forward, lift backward This sounds like debating the proper way to say caramel!

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by vtirocz

That’s not accurate. Normally I have them with the locking mechanism on the outboard side, but still set up to lift rearward. I agree the locking mechanism should be outboard (I realized this while I was lifting it, but it has no functional difference other than being less convenient to lock). I’m not sold yet though that it matters if the lifting direction is forward or backward. I think either way is acceptable and lifting backwards in my garage allows for more space to work while in the lifted position. Let me know if I’m missing something here.

Normally I’d have mine positioned like this (locking bar outboard, lifting backwards):

Just going off of the instructions that came with my BL-5000SLX... When I put the locking mechanisms outboard, the car lifts forward... (when I put the correct one on the side they state in the directions). If I remember correctly, the wheels on the Quickjacks are supposed to be to the rear and the locking mechanisms outboard per the instructions...

My car has 372 miles on it, when I do the 500 mile oil & diff fluid change I'll try to remember to take a lot of pictures of the lift and post them for reference...

[wwiiavfan]

If you are going to use wood blocks, you should at least use hardwood. Those look like regular pine 2x4s. Just a suggestion.

[Jsreo]

I already had the bl5000 before I got the Camaro and ended up buying the extender so I could lift from the front most and rear most lift points.

The lift worked with out the extender but I felt there was too much weight over the front of the lift and did not feel like being crushed to death so figured the extender was a good investment.

Obviously they are not needed with the EXT models

[mikem2104]

i'm a big fan of these, even on my camaro. works great to hit the factory lift points
https://www.quickjack.com/accessorie...k-adapter-kit/

[vtirocz]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

Just going off of the instructions that came with my BL-5000SLX... When I put the locking mechanisms outboard, the car lifts forward... (when I put the correct one on the side they state in the directions). If I remember correctly, the wheels on the Quickjacks are supposed to be to the rear and the locking mechanisms outboard per the instructions...

My car has 372 miles on it, when I do the 500 mile oil & diff fluid change I'll try to remember to take a lot of pictures of the lift and post them for reference...

Regarding setting up the lifting arc to go forward or backwards, I've confirmed with QuickJack tech support that either way is perfectly acceptable. I couldn't think of why this would matter, so just wanted to confirm with them to make sure I'm not overlooking something.

With that said, I'll continue to set mine up as shown in post 5 (arc backwards, locks outboard) since that gives me the most space to work in my garage when working under the front end.

Originally Posted by wwiiavfan

If you are going to use wood blocks, you should at least use hardwood. Those look like regular pine 2x4s. Just a suggestion.

Thanks for the suggestion. Why would hardwood be needed though? The wooden blocks are sandwiched between the jack receiver tray and the hockey puck, with the weight evenly distributed on each. Hardwood would be acceptable, but I'm not seeing the need. If regular pine is good enough for house structures, floor joists, supports,etc, I think it's good enough to be used in compression on the car lift. The reason I used wood is because I wasn't a big fan of how 'squishy' the provided rubber blocks were and wanted the car to be mounted as rigidly as possible with no movement.

[wwiiavfan]

I've used softwood blocks before in a similar manner you are, and most of the time you won't have an issue, but if the weight isn't distributed perfectly (any rocking or high spots at all), the soft wood can split pretty easily.
Not that hard wood can't split either, but it takes quite a bit more uneven force to split it.
Not judging or telling you what to do, just giving an opinion on a little bit safer way.

[vtirocz]

Originally Posted by wwiiavfan

I've used softwood blocks before in a similar manner you are, and most of the time you won't have an issue, but if the weight isn't distributed perfectly (any rocking or high spots at all), the soft wood can split pretty easily.
Not that hard wood can't split either, but it takes quite a bit more uneven force to split it.
Not judging or telling you what to do, just giving an opinion on a little bit safer way.

Thanks! I'll keep an eye on that and will consider upgrading. Might be cheap insurance. Thanks for that feedback.

[Silveradoss573]

I don't know but some of you make this more complicated than it really is it seems. I only use the provided rubber blocks to lift mine and nothing more. No pucks mounted on my pinch welds...nothing. As for the setup of the lifts, the latch bars always go towards the outside of the vehicle. Other than that, lift it however you want because it doesn't matter.