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Old 10-30-2019, 10:56 AM   #29
FNxR3DNECK


 
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You guys may remember that I had an engine failure back in April, well I also had a fairly minor over-rev moment last year in I think it was October. There's definitely a chance the over-rev led to the eventual failure but I didn't have any issues with the warranty claim due to that.


As for the AFM valves being more prone to damage on an over-rev, that may be true but at least for my case the #3 valve is the one that failed so not one of the AFM valves.


Just my input, I don't think my over-rev caused/led to the eventual valve failure 6 months/5-6k miles later but I could be wrong, and either way I was still able to get the engine replaced under warranty.
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Old 10-30-2019, 12:04 PM   #30
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Is everyone of the opinion that the red-line is not even a little bit overstated in order to protect owners? By that I mean maybe they label the red-line a little lower than the point where it really becomes a problem? Kind of like how you can reach E on the gas gauge and still have a little bit left. Am I nuts? LOL
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Old 10-30-2019, 02:10 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Emoto View Post
Is everyone of the opinion that the red-line is not even a little bit overstated in order to protect owners? By that I mean maybe they label the red-line a little lower than the point where it really becomes a problem? Kind of like how you can reach E on the gas gauge and still have a little bit left. Am I nuts? LOL
Maybe a bit for protection, but, a lot of the mechanical over revs take the engine WAY over fuel cut off. Saw a guy more than once downshifting from 4-3 and clutch was out at speeds up to 128mph. That's over 7700rpm for a short time as the car slows under braking (and engine compressional braking). That's a good way to go from braking to breaking!
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Old 10-30-2019, 02:59 PM   #32
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My two cents:


in any "quick" over rev condition I have ever seen on any American V8 is the pushrods will bend first. there easy to replace and in most cases don't just totally fail.


Now I have snapped one and the lifter cam out of the bore a got zero oil pressure pretty quick. But thats on conventional lifter cam setup.
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Old 11-02-2019, 01:13 AM   #33
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If it's burning a lot of oil in the next 1000 miles or so you'll probably be rebuilding the head.

Not every issue makes itself evident immediately.
Can you explain why.....
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Old 11-04-2019, 10:41 AM   #34
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Can I explain why not every issue makes itself evident immediately?

I probably could, but it's kind of complex. Specify what you'd like explained.
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Old 11-04-2019, 11:11 AM   #35
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Can I explain why not every issue makes itself evident immediately?

I probably could, but it's kind of complex. Specify what you'd like explained.
Allow me to take a crack at its most basic level. By and large there are two types of failures:

1. Catastrophic (immediate)
2. Fatigue related (over time)

That's why many serious amateur racers swap springs (and other stuff) for every race and pro teams swap whole motors (frequently) as the fact the motor made it to the checkers doesn't guarantee it will do it again.

Regarding my suggestion for the OP to swap springs as cheap insurance, take a look at Nicky's thread on Track thread. Of course another strategy is to do nothing as power train is warranted. But if she blows it will be one heck of an inconvenience with towing, down time, likely some out of pocket costs, etc.

Anyhow, ive said enough here. Cheers!
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Old 11-04-2019, 12:15 PM   #36
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I'm not sure why an engine would start burning oil if over-rev'd.

Could loose compression and loose power certainly. (bent valve/weak valve springs)

To a previous question-if you are expecting long life from the engine - my opinion is the redline is the redline. If you plan on swapping valve springs or other upgrades, then running the car to fuel cut (believe it is 6600) is ok, but don't expect 100,000 miles out of it. At my level, I certainly don't see an advantage of exceeding redline.

On the road course - I never attempt to exceed redline - I wonder if the factory tach is dead on as the PDR is as I've seen my recording show a few incursions into the red zone which I hadn't noticed during the drive...I consider that a personal foul.

It can be an advantage at an autocross to extend the available rpm, but than again - expect some losses some day.

Absolutely no reason for a downshift to carry the engine into redline...just sloppy driving.
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Old 11-04-2019, 02:58 PM   #37
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I'm not sure why an engine would start burning oil if over-rev'd.
Please ask any enthusiast that has owned an S54, B18C5, or F20C and they'll tell you lol
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Old 11-04-2019, 03:38 PM   #38
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Please ask any enthusiast that has owned an S54, B18C5, or F20C and they'll tell you lol
Interesting choice of engines. I've owned them all aside from my B series being the B18C1. My only issues with the S54 was the VANOS exhaust hub tab breaking off, but my B and F series were solid and I boosted the F20.
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Old 11-04-2019, 05:25 PM   #39
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Cool, did you mechanically over-rev yours? This is a pretty specific conversation not just about owning the motors

Also, Honda's VTEC motors are well known for burning oil when driven as you should... every one of mine (I think like 9?) certainly did, boosted or NA... but even 9 is just anecdotal haha
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Old 11-04-2019, 05:29 PM   #40
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You don't have to take it from me, a quick google returns plenty of results of Honda's VTEC motors burning oil. Also, here's one that mentions the valve seals lol what I was getting at:

https://www.team-integra.net/threads...on-good.94274/

So yea!
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Old 11-05-2019, 04:06 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeverDie View Post
Cool, did you mechanically over-rev yours? This is a pretty specific conversation not just about owning the motors

Also, Honda's VTEC motors are well known for burning oil when driven as you should... every one of mine (I think like 9?) certainly did, boosted or NA... but even 9 is just anecdotal haha
Would've been kind of foolish to quote and comment on something if I hadn't, but yes, I have mechanically over-revved quite a few engines.. not sure if all 6 of my D/B/F engines experienced it, but I never had oil burning issues until the F20 scored cylinder 3 which caused us to drop a new bottom end in.

I'm well aware of the issues with the valve stem seals in Honda D/B engines; hadn't heard of it on the F20/22's. I just wanted to comment about my history with them, that's all.

So..yeah?
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Old 11-05-2019, 04:54 PM   #42
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i thought we were talking about a gen v LT1? i’ve mechanically over revved several v8s, never hurt one beyond pushrods. i’ve also seen several of them over revved, most damage was a bent valve. none of them burnt oil, had issues down the road or experienced immediate catastrophic damage. small sample but i think it supports the idea that it’s fine.

op: the motor is prob fine. just drive it, hold off on the rebuild haha.
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