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Old 05-04-2022, 10:47 PM   #15
Camaro1973

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radz28 View Post
Is your fender tank in leu of a trunk tank? Am I understanding that correctly? I've been thinking about this, too, but I can't do anything obvious. I've seen some say those will hold heat as much as they can help cool in certain situations.

Yeah i decided to use the fender tank instead of the trunk tank only because it was a challenge.. lol.



Basically it will take longer to cool the loop with the added volume, but this is good because while it takes longer to cool down, it also takes much longer for it to warm up.


You can think of it like this, instead of the end of a 1/4 mile run the MAT temps being 120, they'll be 110 with the added volume instead of just chiller only. This is just an example. Then at idle, low speeds it takes just a few minutes for the coolant temp to bottom out. Its amazing because you can sit and idle, MAT temps can go up to 120F, you blip the throttle and it immediately drops 30F. Soon as that air hits the freezing cold bricks from opening the throttle its instant cool.


Also remember the chiller is always fighting the heat from the blower sitting on top of the heads so its always absorbing heat.


It sure beats trying to cool it with air/heat exchangers. You can only cool water to ambient no matter what you do.



The fender tank is out of range of heat where it sits behind the fender. The coolant is close to freezing most of the time.
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Old 05-05-2022, 06:25 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radz28 View Post
Is your fender tank in leu of a trunk tank? Am I understanding that correctly? I've been thinking about this, too, but I can't do anything obvious. I've seen some say those will hold heat as much as they can help cool in certain situations.
In my opinion the chiller works best with a moderate to small size aux tank, about 1-2 gallons at the most. As stated before, if you hot lap in the 1/4, like to do 1/2 mile or full mile events, a larger trunk mounted tank has some benefit. The advantages to the smaller tank is that the chiller can cool the entire loop quicker, disadvantages obviously mean that it can heat up quicker. Chillers work extremely well for daily drivers and 1/4 runs where you can allow the car to cool down a few minutes between passes.
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Old 05-05-2022, 11:02 AM   #17
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AH. Thanks, gentlemen, for the information!
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Old 05-05-2022, 07:36 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Camaro1973 View Post
AC turns off at WOT and wont be able to keep up on a road course. If you have a large expansion tank it may offset this.
Ah yes, I forgot that important piece of info. Figure there should be some way to make the AC run even at full throttle if you wanted though?
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Old 05-05-2022, 07:49 PM   #19
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Ah yes, I forgot that important piece of info. Figure there should be some way to make the AC run even at full throttle if you wanted though?

Even if it did, the compressor is just to small to keep up with the heat.
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Old 05-06-2022, 05:28 PM   #20
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Just curious, after the chiller install and retune you picked up a little extra power. Granted that power most likely would not have been possible without the chiller, but could the improved 60-130 times be attributable to that extra power?

I mean, say you had installed the chiller and used it only for it's cooling abilities and did not have it retuned...and say you then tested the 60-130 in similar temps/DA and then compared them...would the times be less than they are with your updated tune?

Also, let's say you were able to gain that extra power without the chiller, how much would your times have improved?

I guess what I'm saying is it would be interesting to see how the chiller as a stand alone mod without a retune affects the car's performance.
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Old 05-06-2022, 05:34 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlaqWhole View Post
Just curious, after the chiller install and retune you picked up a little extra power. Granted that power most likely would not have been possible without the chiller, but could the improved 60-130 times be attributable to that extra power?

I mean, say you had installed the chiller and used it only for it's cooling abilities and did not have it retuned...and say you then tested the 60-130 in similar temps/DA and then compared them...would the times be less than they are with your updated tune?

Also, let's say you were able to gain that extra power without the chiller, how much would your times have improved?

I guess what I'm saying is it would be interesting to see how the chiller as a stand alone mod without a retune affects the car's performance.
I would hope it's being used for consistency and less heat soak, not sure I'd tune for it being there! Maybe it would make you feel a little more comfortable to toss that last degree or two of timing at the car but not sure I'd want to expect anything more than that.
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Old 05-06-2022, 06:37 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlaqWhole View Post
Just curious, after the chiller install and retune you picked up a little extra power. Granted that power most likely would not have been possible without the chiller, but could the improved 60-130 times be attributable to that extra power?

I mean, say you had installed the chiller and used it only for it's cooling abilities and did not have it retuned...and say you then tested the 60-130 in similar temps/DA and then compared them...would the times be less than they are with your updated tune?

Also, let's say you were able to gain that extra power without the chiller, how much would your times have improved?

I guess what I'm saying is it would be interesting to see how the chiller as a stand alone mod without a retune affects the car's performance.
I just Demonstrated that exactly what your talking about in the Pics it’s not tuned for colder air, there were no timing changes. The extra power comes from cooler dense air. My tune also adds 0 timing based on MAT temps. Where as before the chiller it was actually adding timing. It’s not that it’s making more power per say, it’s the fact I’m Not losing any when ambient Temps go up, and it’s really hard if not impossible to heat soak now with the chiller.

Not sure you read my post thoroughly
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Old 05-06-2022, 06:50 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Camaro1973 View Post
I just Demonstrated that exactly what your talking about in the Pics it’s not tuned for colder air, there were no timing changes. The extra power comes from cooler dense air. My tune also adds 0 timing based on MAT temps. Where as before the chiller it was actually adding timing. It’s not that it’s making more power per say, it’s the fact I’m Not losing any when ambient Temps go up, and it’s really hard if not impossible to heat soak now with the chiller.

Not sure you read my post thoroughly
I get that the denser air has a positive effect. I just thought you told me that you had it tuned for more power. I probably stopped listening when you were going on and on about it

Hopefully I'll have mine installed soon. I wanna wait tho as I'm curious to see what my temps will be when it gets really hot. I've seen yours but I want to see what my Whipple will do or if it will get to the point where it starts pulling timing. If I had thought this out better then I would have tested my stock setup to compare to my current setup just for informational purposes.
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Old 05-06-2022, 06:51 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by LiqTenExp View Post
I would hope it's being used for consistency and less heat soak, not sure I'd tune for it being there! Maybe it would make you feel a little more comfortable to toss that last degree or two of timing at the car but not sure I'd want to expect anything more than that.
Yes exactly. No timing was added. And the adders were all removed because I’m simply at the max of my high side on ethanol)

It’s better to zero the adders out when your close to the max of your fuel system. Last thing you want the ECU to do is add another 1-2 degrees of timing because your MAT temps are 80F.

It probably could take another degree on 93 as I have more fuel for that, but it’s just not worth it, I’d rather not ride the knock sensors. Also, my tune the knock sensors are back at stock settings since I’ve switched headers from kooks to CSP.

Andrew just isn’t aggressive as some others that tune and that’s fine with me. I still make plenty of power and still have the protection in case it needs it.

Some will tune on ragged edge for numbers, and tell you to throw some boostane in it etc.

One if the nice things about having the chiller is you can turn it off, let it heatsoak on the dyno let the MAT temps get hot and you can make pulls and adjust timing to where it’s needed based on that in the IAT table.
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Old 05-06-2022, 06:56 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by BlaqWhole View Post
I get that the denser air has a positive effect. I just thought you told me that you had it tuned for more power. I probably stopped listening when you were going on and on about it

Hopefully I'll have mine installed soon. I wanna wait tho as I'm curious to see what my temps will be when it gets really hot. I've seen yours but I want to see what my Whipple will do or if it will get to the point where it starts pulling timing. If I had thought this out better then I would have tested my stock setup to compare to my current setup just for informational purposes.
Probably misunderstood when I had it tuned for ethanol.

It all depends on your tune when it pulls timing. I need your new file
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Old 05-06-2022, 07:43 PM   #26
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What was your cooling setup prior to the chiller? Stock HX’s? Higher capacity ice tank? Stock or external water pump? Just trying to understand the full scope of what is being compared.
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Old 05-06-2022, 08:47 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta View Post
What was your cooling setup prior to the chiller? Stock HX’s? Higher capacity ice tank? Stock or external water pump? Just trying to understand the full scope of what is being compared.

Everything stock except the chiller.
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Old 05-06-2022, 08:51 PM   #28
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Everything stock except the chiller.
Got it, thanks. So the comparison is no cooling mods to adding a cooling mod. I’d say the results are what I’d expect.
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