[mjoffsetkustoms]

Any suggestions on the actual install of the E2-X on a car with a ProCharger....? The instructions for an LT1 are worthless on a car with a P1-X...

[SS2017_MJB]

Originally Posted by mjoffsetkustoms

Any suggestions on the actual install of the E2-X on a car with a ProCharger....? The instructions for an LT1 are worthless on a car with a P1-X...

I have a Procharger P1X mod to my 2017 SS which I had previously installed a JLT catch can when it was NA. My speed shop did a little bit of relocation to allow the catch can to coexist with the Procharger's air intake assembly. The Elite Engineering EX-2 may be a superior product and I'm not interjecting to set you on another path. I just wanted to note that I was (am) in same place and I wanted to preserve my catch can. BTW I have had very good experience with the JLT 3081 DB since install in summer of 2017 (bought car in June 2017); no leaks and definitely captures that oil--at reasonable cost of around $140. I had a 2014 Mustang GT A6 prior to this car and used JLT catch can on it --and it worked exceptionally well.) I can upload pictures if it would benefit you. Apologize for breaking in .....

[Eyefixstuff]

The suction line which is in the middle goes to the lower valley fitting. For the other two, one goes to the intake port near throttle body. Other one goes to the procharger intake elbow near the air filter. Finally the oil cap get replaced with the included breather and that hose goes to the end of your air filter. Make sure the check valves are facing the correct direction. This setup will allow suction during vacuum and also during boost. If you have one setup for NA, it will have suction during vacuum but not during boost.

Also as a review, my catch can has actually gotten a lot of oil.

[Eyefixstuff]

This may help. It’s a picture from my old car when I was removing everything being transferred to the new car.

[Elite Engineering]

Email our Technical Support team direct at: Tech@EliteEngineeringUSA.com and they will guide you through it all.


Cheers!!

[DorkMissile]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

Email our Technical Support team direct at: Tech@EliteEngineeringUSA.com and they will guide you through it all.


Cheers!!

FWIW - I have used this email to try and contact Elite on this very subject (use existing Elite catch can from N/A for centrifugal setup) and get incredibly complicated answers with partial instructions from different types of cars / engines that you have to try and stitch together. About ready to scrap the thing and buy something else before I push the front seal on my LT1

[parbreak]

Go with the Mighty Mouse Wild catch can and forget Elite.

[FrostySS]

So I have my Mishimoto CC from when I was NA....am I doing damage by having it on my car now that it has a centri on it?

[Dysan911]

Originally Posted by FrostySS

So I have my Mishimoto CC from when I was NA....am I doing damage by having it on my car now that it has a centri on it?

I don't' believe that style will work well because it's source of vacuum that is uses to pull vapors from the crankcase is the Intake. When you go into boost you will be pushing boost into your catch can..

[nander8]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

You'll want our E2-X Dual Catch Can, part number: E2X-A1DVP4

Is that still a valid part number? Cant find it on your site, only the E2X-A1DVP2

[Jayd0002]

ELITE ENGINEERING- WHATS THE ADVANTAGES OF YOUR SYSTEM OVER THE MIGHTY MOUSE WILD SETUP??-- FOR A 2017 CAMARO SS PROCHARGED

[DorkMissile]

Originally Posted by Jayd0002

ELITE ENGINEERING- WHATS THE ADVANTAGES OF YOUR SYSTEM OVER THE MIGHTY MOUSE WILD SETUP??-- FOR A 2017 CAMARO SS PROCHARGED

Good luck with that - I have been screwing with my E2 can all year long trying to get it to work well with my ECS setup and I finally gave up. Have a Mighty Mouse on order.

Im not trying to flame Elite, however if they spent as much time coming up with some decent instructions as they did trying to convince people on forums that their can is better than others then maybe I wouldn't be here.

Again, when asking for instructions on how to properly plumb with a centrifugal S/C on a LT1 - I got some pictures of CAD models of a engine with a turbo, and instructions on how to plumb a C7 car with a PD blower (Z06).

I personally get a little upset seeing my emails don't get answered but see regular activity here from Elite selling their stuff.

Its a good setup for N/A, but if doing a S/C just go with the MM Wild

[Elite Engineering]

Originally Posted by Jayd0002

ELITE ENGINEERING- WHATS THE ADVANTAGES OF YOUR SYSTEM OVER THE MIGHTY MOUSE WILD SETUP??-- FOR A 2017 CAMARO SS PROCHARGED

EyeFixStuff, Thanks for your input. We were closed the 4th and Tech Support was off sight and no internet in a rural area.


DorkMissle,


Tech@EliteEngineeringUSA.com is our Engineering and Technical support contact. We always are technical as understanding is critical on proper crankcase evacuation, and the E2-X Ultra dual valve is the proper system for a centrifugal application over 6-8# boost. We always answer emails to tech support. Also, a centrifugal SC and a turbo are identical installations. A Centrifugal SC is basically a turbo driven by a belt instead of exhaust gasses. We do not know of any way other than technical explanations to share information and data with others. We are not just pushing sales but education and understanding. Far too many just purchase products with little understanding of all involved.


Jayd0002,


Aside from trapping nearly twice the amount as far as effectiveness (can be tested yourself to demonstrate), it provides full time evacuation suction on your crankcase so pressure can never build and harm a seal to begin with.


On a Centrifugal supercharger or a turbo, the intake manifold is pressurized with boost, so unless your at idle or during deceleration, you have NO evacuation taking place with the wild. Only allowing pressure to build and vent leaving most of the damage and wear causing substances (combustion byproducts) to remain in the crankcase causing accelerated wear. Doing this also results in a condition known as "piston ring flutter" (https://www.highpowermedia.com/blog/...n-ring-flutter). As all modern engines are built with low tension, low friction piston rings, this becomes an issue if pressure above and suction below the rings is not maintained. The rapid state of vibration the rings enter into results in much greater blow-by and the issues related to it. Long tern this wears the leading edges of the rings as well as the ringlands in the pistons and small "divots" in the cylinder walls. So you have one method that is technology used from the first internal combustion engines at the beginning of the 1900's until the mid 1960's when the PCV system was mandated. Race engines still vented until app 20 years ago when advancements in technology found pulling full time suction on the crankcase did several things.


It gained power by aiding the pistons on the downstroke instead of fighting pressure as the wild does.


It removed most of the damage and wear causing combustion byproducts (Water, acids, raw fuel, and abrasive particulate matter) and resulted in a better ring seal. This video demonstrates this as far as power. Note, we do not provide as strong of vacuum during WOT as a pump system, but still emulate this and the advantages are evident. The first dyno pull is venting as the wild system would, and the second is pulling full time suction/vacuum as our E2-X dual valve system does. And this is on a NA small cube engine. On forced induction this is all the more critical:



And by constantly flushing and evacuating (venting is NOT evacuation, that requires suction) your oil stays cleaner longer as this recent oil analysis shows. Note the lab techs comments. This is a GDI twin turbo engine modded and driven hard that has been doing field testing on the effects of our system on the engine oil:





Now, one only has to look at the Professional racing industry to see NO form "Vents" unless the class prohibits a crankcase evacuation system as an unfair advantage such as stock and super stock classes in NHRA & IHRA as well as the stock car "claimer engine" classes. All other including Indy cars and off road use vacuum evacuation systems. Protecting your engine and gaining every single HP is what wins and looses races as well as protecting these engines.


So in summary, the wild will provide NO evacuation unless at idle or deceleration. We provide full time evacuation using 2 separate proven vacuum/suction sources and a series of checkvalves so no matter what operating mode your in, your crankcase is always pulling suction so pressure does not build in the first place.


What happens if a piston ring is damaged and blow-by becomes excessive? You retain the factory cleanside separation system on the LT1/LT4 with the Camaro (or add our CSS system with a LS based engine) and any excessive pressure would simply vent into the main air intake instead of always venting into your engine compartment. The factory CSS is very effective. No seal failures can occur as it is impossible for pressure to ever build.


Now, why do most install a "catchcan"? To stop as much oil and other contaminant ingestion via the intake air charge. Oil causes detonation and that results in knock retard. As the MM cans trap a fraction of the E2-X patented design (we trap app. 95%, MM far less, and again, anyone can test and see this first hand like in this video. Start at the 17 minute mark to see the final results, but the entire video is very educational. This was performed by a tech that was promoting the Moroso can):


And there are many others with most can designs on the market showing it is not a small disparity but a huge difference in effectiveness.


So, why would anyone use such outdated and ineffective solution? Lack of knowledge is the only reason we can think of.


We have had this challenge in public for years, and mm refuses to have their can tested independently as all of the tests with ours have been done.


It is not what a can catches as all engines are different and even a soda can will trap as much as most cans, it is what gets past a can or is "pulled through", and if you follow these independent tests only drops get past our design.


So in closing, it is critical to match the proper system with your application/build. We invite questions and any civil technical based discussions. From working with one of the most respected lubrication laboratories in the World to thousands of these being used as advertised on 600-800-1000HP plus FI builds for years, there is no more effective design on the market currently that were aware of.


More pictures?


E2-X design vs JLT independent test:



JLT left, E2-X design right.


And an extensive long term test conducted here on Camaro6:


https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=512223


Hope this helps!

[oldman]

I would like to see a vacuum gauge put on a catch can system. If it sees any vacuum at all, it has be very small. So how much can it do over just venting???? Really. Lets get somebody with a vacuum gauge to do some RD.... gut feeling there is very little Vacuum, but I like to be surprised... I would suggest that a tap into the valley would be the best place... though I saw a fitting there last time my intake was off... last week. I vent and there is "some build-up" on my intake valves, I clean it up with nylon brush and some deposit remover...