[Chrome383Z]

I was talking to a guy about getting my heads ported and he’s done quiet a few LT1 heads. Hasn’t seen any systemic problems with LT1 heads and mentioned of the thousands of head/cam cars you only hear about the few failures on the internet… and of those you don’t know the whole story (improper installation, poor tune, spinning too high, etc). I’m not saying he’s right or wrong…. But brings up a point…

Ideally I’d like to stay N/A and be able to hang with a ZL1 on the straights while pulling faster lap times overall. I can’t run a huge cam with the stock A10 converter anyways.

I was looking at the Titan 1 (218/228 114+5 .59x). Are the valve seat failures overblown with a cam like that along with .625 beehives running stock A10 shift points?

The shop I talked to actually recommended a 210/216 115+3 (.63x) for a stock idle and could be used with a blower down the road if I wanted. Titan 1 probably could as well. This cam worries me a little more with the .63x lift, however I will still be shifting at stock points. 6400-6500ish. Will .63x lift kill my seats even though I’m shifting at a relatively mild rpm? Does anyone really know?

Thoughts?

[6spdhyperblue]

How can you compare ramps and how hard they slam the seat? Even if they run the same spring?

[Duramacr1]

A stock ZL1 is easy work for an N/A FBO car. But most ZL1’s are not stock so FBO/cam only with a converter will get you low 10’s, high 9’s and you will be able to hang with some modded ones .

[Chrome383Z]

Originally Posted by Duramacr1

A stock ZL1 is easy work for an N/A FBO car. But most ZL1’s are not stock so FBO/cam only with a converter will get you low 10’s, high 9’s and you will be able to hang with some modded ones .

Cool I don’t follow 1/4mi much anymore. I did that in my 4th Gen days. This car handles so damn well I decided to try something new for me (road course). Goals for this car are a weekend car that runs 3-4 HPDE road course events a year (Putnam). But reliable enough if the wife and I want to take it on a road trip to FL for the weekend there’s no worries.

With all the valve seat hysteria it makes me want to just throw a 2650 on it to hit my HP goals, but I really don’t want the extra 200lbs on the front end for the turns add in additional heat concerns.

That’s why I’m looking at H/Mild cam for starters with the option to go blower down the road. But if an aftermarket cam is going to make the motor a ticking time bomb I’m not sure which way to go.

That’s why I’m questioning the valve seat issues and how real they really are with smaller cams…

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by Chrome383Z

Cool I don’t follow 1/4mi much anymore. I did that in my 4th Gen days. This car handles so damn well I decided to try something new for me (road course). Goals for this car are a weekend car that runs 3-4 HPDE road course events a year (Putnam). But reliable enough if the wife and I want to take it on a road trip to FL for the weekend there’s no worries.

With all the valve seat hysteria it makes me want to just throw a 2650 on it to hit my HP goals, but I really don’t want the extra 200lbs on the front end for the turns add in additional heat concerns.

That’s why I’m looking at H/Mild cam for starters with the option to go blower down the road. But if an aftermarket cam is going to make the motor a ticking time bomb I’m not sure which way to go.

That’s why I’m questioning the valve seat issues and how real they really are with smaller cams…

It's closer to an extra 100 lbs rather than 200, and you get 200+ crank hp for it. Now a ZL1 is already 200 lbs heavier than your car stock vs stock, makes less power than you can (reliably) with a 2650, and its track times are still pretty respectable. Don't know how good a driver you are, but I'm just a lame amateur and love my upgraded SS, it doesn't really feel nose heavy or much less nimble than stock.

Sure, you need to size up the brakes and the maybe the cooling, heck, even a stock SS has separate track prep recommendations for brake cooling, but the 2650 is a great value proposition IMO.

[Chrome383Z]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

It's closer to an extra 100 lbs rather than 200, and you get 200+ crank hp for it. Now a ZL1 is already 200 lbs heavier than your car stock vs stock, makes less power than you can (reliably) with a 2650, and its track times are still pretty respectable. Don't know how good a driver you are, but I'm just a lame amateur and love my upgraded SS, it doesn't really feel nose heavy or much less nimble than stock.

Sure, you need to size up the brakes and the maybe the cooling, heck, even a stock SS has separate track prep recommendations for brake cooling, but the 2650 is a great value proposition IMO.

Complete novice, my car currently is more then I can handle on the road course - but it’s still a street car too so looking for more power and something to do this spring… lol.

I figured H/C I could get around 550rw+/- depending on cam and still not be too much.

But if the seat thing really is an issue, and I need $4k for aftermarket heads I might as well skip the H/C and just do blower. 100lb isn’t as bad as 200 for sure…

[s346k]

Originally Posted by Chrome383Z

With all the valve seat hysteria it makes me want to just throw a 2650 on it to hit my HP goals, but I really don’t want the extra 200lbs on the front end for the turns add in additional heat concerns.

i would look for a performance goal as opposed to a hp goal. on average, the blower LT1 cars never seem to run very good and if they do it ain't for very long. with your a10, i think you could easily bump 128 mph in the 1/4 with a good set of heads and a ported msd. staying na would keep weight to a minimum and keeping the stock cam and short block in tact would retain reliability.

fwiw my m6 car trapped almost 126 at muncie last year. we have almost the exact same mods. granted it's muncie id still expect it to go 124 at irp in similar weather.

[cmitchell17]

Originally Posted by Chrome383Z

Cool I don’t follow 1/4mi much anymore. I did that in my 4th Gen days. This car handles so damn well I decided to try something new for me (road course). Goals for this car are a weekend car that runs 3-4 HPDE road course events a year (Putnam). But reliable enough if the wife and I want to take it on a road trip to FL for the weekend there’s no worries.

With all the valve seat hysteria it makes me want to just throw a 2650 on it to hit my HP goals, but I really don’t want the extra 200lbs on the front end for the turns add in additional heat concerns.

That’s why I’m looking at H/Mild cam for starters with the option to go blower down the road. But if an aftermarket cam is going to make the motor a ticking time bomb I’m not sure which way to go.

That’s why I’m questioning the valve seat issues and how real they really are with smaller cams…

What about going with the GM LT1 hot cam if you want good reliability (and make basically the same amount of power)?

I think I read somewhere about the testing GM powertrain did for the LT1 hot cam motor and I am pretty sure they said they used the same test specifications as the production stock LT1.