Start or don’t start in winter? Pros cons

[weSS1LEy]

Pros,
Lubes seals
Circulates fuel
Charges battery
Shifts spring pressure to different springs

Cons,
Air fuel at idle is bad for cylinder heads?
Dry start, but what time frame is considered a dry start? Weekly? Monthly?


Sorry guys if this is done to death but it’s nice to always revisit for fresh ideas!

[pnwdan]

I say it hurts to let it sit. Moisture builds up in the crank case and around components. I would always start it every week or two and let it come up to temp.

[mikeinmobile]

Take it from someone w/multiple classic cars.......never let them sit! If you can't put it on the road at least warm it up weekly if not more often. Machines don't do well when left idle for extended periods. A dry start does more damage than a 100 mile drive.

[weSS1LEy]

Originally Posted by mikeinmobile

Take it from someone w/multiple classic cars.......never let them sit! If you can't put it on the road at least warm it up weekly if not more often. Machines don't do well when left idle for extended periods. A dry start does more damage than a 100 mile drive.

What is a dry start? After a week?

[Silveradoss573]

Start it once a month and bring up to temp then shut her down. Weekly is excessive in my opinion.

[Rock-It Man]

There are no pros to starting the car in Winter. You will never bring everything up to temperature idling in the garage. As a result, water will collect in the exhaust and build up in the oil.

Moisture will not build up from just sitting there. Apparently many people don't realize that the two main products of combustion are CO2 and H2O. The H2O will condense before it gets out of the tailpipe until the whole exhaust system is hot.

Also your battery will not maintain charge from idling once a month. That's what battery tenders are for.

Seals? My car sits for 6 months minimum every winter, now on its tenth one. No seal problems.

Fuel? Before storage, put in a bottle of Sta-Bil, fill the tank, and go for a ride to get the fresh gas through the fuel system. Park the car and see you in the Spring.

Speaking of springs, the springs operate well below the elastic limit of the steel and will not "take a set".

[weSS1LEy]

Aha , see good info. I know I have read your posts on this before 👍

[ZED SLED]

I'm with Rock-It Man. Never had an issue with any of my Camaros sitting out the 5 month winter in frozen upstate NY. Stabil, tender, air up the tires. Luckily though, I don't have to deal with that anymore.

[MrChrisLS3]

Seems like there are two ways to do it. But do it right.

Fuel stabilizer and battery tender and let it sit.

If you go with running it, bi-weely or monthly, don't just start it up and let it run. Pick a clear day, where the roads are clear and dry and take it out for about an hour so.

Really depends an how your winters go, and if you are the type that can actually leave it alone for that long.

Long hard winters, roads are never completely clear or dry? Park it

Relatively mild winters with occasional snow, avg temps 32-40, enjoy it on occasion, so long as the tires can take it. (If you have a DOT track tire, park it)

[BehindBlueI's]

I don't start it unless I can drive it. Like Rock-it Man said, that just builds moisture. I never started my motorcycles during the winter, either. Just a battery tender, topped off tank of gas, and an oil change in the spring kept them going with no problem.

[weSS1LEy]

So ideally drive it. It seems like people have been ok on either side of this debate though. Starting vs not starting. Say if mine is in a heated garage then the condensation wouldn’t be as much of an issue if started?

[Rons1le]

I always turn the engine over a few times before I start it to get the oil moving. Press gas pedal to the floor then turn the key, it will turn over but will not start. This is do avoid a dry start.

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[BLU DUCE]

Originally Posted by Rock-It Man

There are no pros to starting the car in Winter. You will never bring everything up to temperature idling in the garage. As a result, water will collect in the exhaust and build up in the oil.

Moisture will not build up from just sitting there. Apparently many people don't realize that the two main products of combustion are CO2 and H2O. The H2O will condense before it gets out of the tailpipe until the whole exhaust system is hot.

Also your battery will not maintain charge from idling once a month. That's what battery tenders are for.

Seals? My car sits for 6 months minimum every winter, now on its tenth one. No seal problems.

Fuel? Before storage, put in a bottle of Sta-Bil, fill the tank, and go for a ride to get the fresh gas through the fuel system. Park the car and see you in the Spring.

Speaking of springs, the springs operate well below the elastic limit of the steel and will not "take a set".

I do this exactly with my camaro for the last 9 years. And also with my 1992 Silverado P/U that has never been driven in snow. And is 26 years old.

[Greenhornet2]

I'm on the let it sit team. I can't drive mine for about 4 months while there is magnesium chloride on the road. It was 68 degrees here Sunday, I saw nice cars and bikes out. I cringed every time thinking about how much magnesium chloride they are collecting on their beautiful rides. That shit EATS metal at an incredible rate.