[laynlo15]

Well I haven't really posted about this but at the last race of the year I had some issues at the track as the car went into limp mode on the last two passes. The oil pump failed and caused the at least two mains to spin the bearing. I haven't taken the motor completely apart yet. I originally pulled the pan with the help of my buddy Matt. We were hoping that since it still had some oil pressure that we might be able to just change the pump and everything behind the from cover. Nope, we could see after pulling the pan that the second main cap back was black around the journal so we knew then it had spun the bearing, then we could see the next one back had pushed the bearing out the side of the main cap. Rude, screwed and tattooed would be a good term for it. I don't think it spun any rod bearing but I can't be for sure. I did pull a couple of rod caps and they were blued pretty badly but not spun. So, I'm in the process of determining my next step. I think its pretty obvious I'm going to need a new block and crank. The forged Manley pistons and rods looked like they'll be ok. So I'm looking at 3k just to replace the block, Lt4 crank plus the machine work, cam bearings, etc so there is another 500 bucks or so. I found a 416 short block not assembled that I may purchase, machine work is done and I can buy it as cheap as I can the new block, crank and machine work. I think I can sell my rods and pistons at some point since they are forged. Cam and all the other internal should be fine since I caught it soon enough. I'll have to go thru the heads with guides, seals etc and maybe a little clean up porting by my engine builder. I should have had it out last weekend but I had to be admitted to the VA hospital for AFib and low heart rate. Just got out Monday so I have a little recovery and then back at it. I was supposed to be at PRI for Magnuson this week but that didn't happen because of my medical issue. I'll get it all figured out in the next few weeks and report back.

[SienarSystems]

Man...one of Ted’s recent build/posts was a ZL1 that suffered an oil pump failure. What are Camaro folks doing? With the 6g Mustangs you’ve got to replace the oil pump gear and crank sprocket when applying boost...are people upgrading their oil pumps when upping the boost on LT1s and LT4s?

[Umbriel]

Originally Posted by SienarSystems

Man...one of Ted’s recent build/posts was a ZL1 that suffered an oil pump failure. What are Camaro folks doing? With the 6g Mustangs you’ve got to replace the oil pump gear and crank sprocket when applying boost...are people upgrading their oil pumps when upping the boost on LT1s and LT4s?

I'd like to know as well, I have a forged 416 short block sitting on the stand waiting to be put in and would like to address it while it is out of the car.

[KingLT1]

Isn't it crazy you can go pretty dang fast for almost 200 passes on the stock stuff, then when trying to push that next level it can become problematic even with built parts. Sorry to hear about your issues...price we pay to go faster. I am sure you will get her fixed up and go even faster next year.

SienarSystems, early ZL1's were the only ones reported to have had oil pump failures. LT1's were not effected by this. So it's hard saying what caused it. Unfortunately nothing is bullet proof when you start pushing the power levels guys are today in these heavy machines.

[JANNETTYRACING]

for now all we can suggest is to purchase the newest part number available from GM.

At least until Melling releases upgrades.

Ted.

[laynlo15]

We replaced it with GMs latest last year about this time. Looks like it starved all the bearing but just didn't catch it in time. I log almost all the run and didn't catch it till P06DD code popped up when it limped in. There were no indications on any prior logs that race or before that the oil pump was having an issue. Probably had 20 passes on the oil change and I don't drive it on the street so don't think that contributed to it. But next motor I'll change it sooner if necessary as its really cheap insurance compared to another short block. We barely found visible evidence in the oil so it happened quickly and then loaded up to come home that last race. On the log it dropped right after the 1-2 shift but it hit the rev limiter for some reason and shut the throttle so oil pressure dropped and then came right back up but then limped before the 1/8 mile and shot that code oil pump locked. Oh well, all I can say as King did that stock motor was pretty stellar and this one just got a bad pump and only got 50 or so runs and 100 miles break in.

[laynlo15]

I haven't totally made up my mind on a 416. Been pricing some blocks and crank. If my rods are ok which I think they are I may just go back to a 376. There isn't that much power difference, can't use the stock piston oilers on the 416, I may need more of a fuel system so makes since to stay stock stroke. Just thinking out loud.

[Charlie540i]

Sorry to hear about this. I cracked a crank sprocket on my car with a 416 stroker and Procharger.

Mustang guys have all those upgrades available and we install the on my shop regulaliry, when is someone going to step up the plate and offer similar stuff for our cars?

[laynlo15]

You cracked a forged crank? Wow, mine had oil run out of the front when we pulled the crank bolt, when it cracked it probably caused all the issues to start with and could have caused the oil pump to cavitate. Who know now, kind of a mess.

[Charlie540i]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

You cracked a forged crank? Wow, mine had oil run out of the front when we pulled the crank bolt, when it cracked it probably caused all the issues to start with and could have caused the oil pump to cavitate. Who know now, kind of a mess.

Crank Sprocket.

[DorkMissile]

I for one on a boosted application would try to avoid the longer stroke because of piston speed & rod angle. IMO the juice isn't worth the squeeze.

As I recall you have had the bottom end apart, did you use a new pump or alignment tools to replace the original pump on reassembly? This is the #1 reason I haven't torn into mine yet, as I hear if you need to pull the pump off you either have to get it back exactly where it was before, or use a new pump.

KaTech does have a higher capacity / higher pressure pump available for $800

[DorkMissile]

Oh as for the Coyote oil pump issues - the upgrade in pump gears has nothing to do with pressure or volume. The factory gears are made of powdered metal - and under increased crank snout loading (superchargers) the harmonics can shatter the gears. It ends up sending powdered metal thru the entire oiling system. The upgrade does nothing for oil pressure or volume, you just end up with tool steel gears in the pump that can take the harmonics.

[laynlo15]

Guess I should have read that a little closer. But dam that sucks also. If I knew my rods were ok I'd just order a block and crank then move on. But if they are screwed because of all the heat from the bearing being starved I may have ruined the big end on the rods also. I have access to a free Lt1 crank from a buddy of mine who did a 416. He had a bearing stick with just 400 miles on one journal, probably a little turning of the crank and a set of correct bearings and we'd be good to go. Pretty much decided I'm not interested in running low 9s anymore. Just want to go race and 9.50s or 60s will be fine on lower boost and pump gas. Just more money for a fuel system and I'm not doing anymore at this point.

[laynlo15]

All new, tensioner, chain, pump. Guess I should have put a forged crank in and we might not be here now since I've read more about the cast cranks flexing and cracking.