[Stephen12ZL1]

This isn't incredibly difficult but a few things need to be stated.

The independent differential pumpkin (center section) is held in place with three fastening points: one accessible from the rear of the vehicle: a 24mm headed M16 x 2.0 bolt which goes through the subframe and two forward bolt/nut combo which require an 18mm ratchet & wrench.

You must first remove the axle retaining bolts on each side which works easiest with an impact & extension with appropriate torx (star) socket. You will need to put the car in neutral and rotate the axle to gain access to all of the bolts. They are pretty well "loctited" in position with GM green loctite so be careful and don't round the heads. I removed the wheel speed sensor and repositioned the upper control arm to get straight line access to the bolts.

You must remove the cooling lines under the diff. After pushing the black plastic rings away, use a pick to release the retaining clips in all four positions. Remove the 10mm retaining bolt. Be careful not to lose the little clips. Remove these lines and set aside. Unplug the e-diff weatherpack and unplug the passenger suspension position sensor.

There is a control module that has two 18mm sized lines that must be removed. These lines continue through the subframe and have a peculiar Eaton quick connect at the differential. A small trim removal tool fork needs to be inserted between the rubber part and the differential. If it takes a lot of force, you are doing it wrong. Once the appropriate sized fork is placed there, it simply pops off.

Hopefully this info will be useful to someone. Thought this info was worthy to share.

[Stephen12ZL1]

probably wondering why I removed the differential...the top bolt broke on track about 6 months ago and the track service "fixed" it. In the process, they stripped the aluminum housing on the top bolt so I am going to install a thread insert. No way to do this without dropping the entire center section. Pics are ugly. I knew something was wrong because there was a persistent clunk which was metal on metal and very aggravating.

[L78toLT1]

While it's basically a non issue as either option will outperform the original, helicoils are slightly stronger than timeserts based on testing we did in one of my materials courses back in the day. If you haven't already purchased the timeserts can get the helicoils cheaper, I'd go with them.

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

While it's basically a non issue as either option will outperform the original, helicoils are slightly stronger than timeserts based on testing we did in one of my materials courses back in the day. If you haven't already purchased the timeserts can get the helicoils cheaper, I'd go with them.

Weird thing is I was told exactly the opposite by a local machinist

[Stephen12ZL1]

thread repair pics

[TWG1]

Nice work! Aluminum: great for drivers, not so great for mechanics. I’m actually surprised how seldom aluminum seems to strip these days. Back in my motorcycle days, it seemed a routine occurrence to fix threads.

Either the materials/engineering have gotten better, or I’ve become less of a meathead mechanic.

[mrgoodbytes]

Originally Posted by TWG1

Nice work! Aluminum: great for drivers, not so great for mechanics. I’m actually surprised how seldom aluminum seems to strip these days. Back in my motorcycle days, it seemed a routine occurrence to fix threads.

Either the materials/engineering have gotten better, or I’ve become less of a meathead mechanic.

I remember on my old 1975 Honda CB400F when doing the valve cover nearly all the threads would come out just by turning the bolts by hand, no tools necessary.

[RobbyBeefcake87]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

This isn't incredibly difficult but a few things need to be stated.

The independent differential pumpkin (center section) is held in place with three fastening points: one accessible from the rear of the vehicle: a 24mm headed M16 x 2.0 bolt which goes through the subframe and two forward bolt/nut combo which require an 18mm ratchet & wrench.

You must first remove the axle retaining bolts on each side which works easiest with an impact & extension with appropriate torx (star) socket. You will need to put the car in neutral and rotate the axle to gain access to all of the bolts. They are pretty well "loctited" in position with GM green loctite so be careful and don't round the heads. I removed the wheel speed sensor and repositioned the upper control arm to get straight line access to the bolts.

You must remove the cooling lines under the diff. After pushing the black plastic rings away, use a pick to release the retaining clips in all four positions. Remove the 10mm retaining bolt. Be careful not to lose the little clips. Remove these lines and set aside. Unplug the e-diff weatherpack and unplug the passenger suspension position sensor.

There is a control module that has two 18mm sized lines that must be removed. These lines continue through the subframe and have a peculiar Eaton quick connect at the differential. A small trim removal tool fork needs to be inserted between the rubber part and the differential. If it takes a lot of force, you are doing it wrong. Once the appropriate sized fork is placed there, it simply pops off.

Hopefully this info will be useful to someone. Thought this info was worthy to share.

Reviving an old thread, but what did you do about any fluid loss from the elsd module when disconnecting those lines. The transmission cooler lines are easy and they just take trans fluid from the trans, but the elsd motor I've been told uses a hydrolic fluid in a sealed system.

[h018871]

I'm also interested in the bleeding procedure for the ELSD pump