So uhm about those pulleys... - Page 5 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Sikoriko · 11-13-2013, 02:19 PM

Thanks guys. I'm starting this friday.

Lil' Nasty · 11-13-2013, 02:34 PM

Hmmm I wonder what would make this easy if you Don't have a vice or jaw puller..

Ventmaster · 11-13-2013, 04:55 PM

Time to buy a vice I'm afraid- only other solution would be take'em to a shop.

One other heads-up: double check all the little wires running to sensors on the front of the motor. My belt almost cut one (cam position sensor would be my guess- wire runs right behind the belt above the tensioner), but fortunately I just lost some insulation.

Lil' Nasty · 11-13-2013, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ventmaster

Time to buy a vice I'm afraid- only other solution would be take'em to a shop.

One other heads-up: double check all the little wires running to sensors on the front of the motor. My belt almost cut one (cam position sensor would be my guess- wire runs right behind the belt above the tensioner), but fortunately I just lost some insulation.

Can Never have too many tools

think magnum posted a thread about that awhile back, been checking mine, no issues but its something to check along with the oil.

Sikoriko · 11-13-2013, 05:34 PM

Once you pulled out the old bearings you could put the outer pulleys in the over 200* for 15 minutes and slide the new bearings in place.

Black Knight · 11-13-2013, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ventmaster

Time to buy a vice I'm afraid- only other solution would be take'em to a shop.

One other heads-up: double check all the little wires running to sensors on the front of the motor. My belt almost cut one (cam position sensor would be my guess- wire runs right behind the belt above the tensioner), but fortunately I just lost some insulation.

I lost sum insulation aswell . I just pushed it back . What did you guys do to secure it

Ventmaster · 11-13-2013, 07:39 PM

I put some tape on it and just pushed it back also. Pretty sure I disturbed it doing the pulleys- prolly won't move again til I forget and put it in harms way again!

MagnumForceGB · 11-13-2013, 07:45 PM

I managed to get one pulley done and thankfully its the one with the most tension, the lower left one.

Unfortunately the only way I'm going to get the other idler pulley out is to take a sawzall and cut it in half because I can not get that bolt out. Then I would have to deal with the bottom M12 Bolts that go from the back to the front and those will probably have to cut them also since the instructions say torque to 75 ft-lbs and that's what I did.

Sikoriko · 11-13-2013, 09:06 PM

Nothing tighter then a good gull

MagnumForceGB · 11-13-2013, 09:13 PM

I'll try JB Welding a torque bit into it this weekend, let it cure over night then see if I can get the bolt out. Wondering if I should use a C-clamp to tighten up the brackets around the bolt to maybe get some stress off that bolt, see if that will help.

On topic though, the bearings are a lot smoother than the ones I removed. I also had a lot of dust buildup on the pulley I did remove so I may have had problems down the road.

sycraft · 11-13-2013, 09:34 PM

can you tap a star type bit in the stripped hole, there are more contact points and you may be able to extract it. that's what I did and it worked.

JohnnyBfromPeoria · 11-13-2013, 11:05 PM

Good call Sycraft.

Speaking more to differential heating and cooling of friction-fit parts, I installed new bearing races in the front hubs of my '95 Montero the other day. These are pretty big, as Mitsubishi overbuilt their off-road vehicles, and require a race/seal driver to install properly. While it took many, many blows with a pick and heavy hammer to remove the old ones, the new ones I left in the freezer overnight went in very easily. The small difference in size because of their temperature really helps. I'd recommend it. Just use common sense when handling hot/cold items, of course.

John B.

Ventmaster · 11-14-2013, 12:54 PM

Not trying to be the "glass half empty"- But while I did not heat my pulleys, I did freeze my bearings. The cold contraction only allowed them to "seat" in the pulley and required the vice to press in the rest of the way.

Hopefully the combo of heat for the pulleys with frozen bearings will make a bigger difference, but I already explained my lack of patience!

MagnumForceGB · 11-14-2013, 01:01 PM

I've tried hammering multiple star bits in the bolt but each if them just strip the bolt out more. I'm just going to go at it from the rear (giggity) with a drill bit. The bolt is only threaded in halfway through, if I can weaken it enough it can be pulled out. Also when the drill is digging onto the metal it will be going in the loosen direction.

If I ever do get this bolt out I'm going to drive to the middle of nowhere and throw it away. These bolts are one shot only, they strip too easily.

11-13-2013, 02:34 PM	#58
Lil' Nasty [COTW 4/13/15] Drives: Supercharged LLT Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Florida Posts: 5,957	Hmmm I wonder what would make this easy if you Don't have a vice or jaw puller.. __________________ LiL' Nasty's Build Journal

11-13-2013, 07:45 PM	#64
MagnumForceGB Drives: Fastest 2010 Camaro V6 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Newcastle, OK Posts: 3,571 View My Garage	I managed to get one pulley done and thankfully its the one with the most tension, the lower left one. Unfortunately the only way I'm going to get the other idler pulley out is to take a sawzall and cut it in half because I can not get that bolt out. Then I would have to deal with the bottom M12 Bolts that go from the back to the front and those will probably have to cut them also since the instructions say torque to 75 ft-lbs and that's what I did. __________________ Camaro V6 = 11.268 @ 120.11 Last edited by MagnumForceGB; 11-13-2013 at 09:11 PM.

11-13-2013, 09:13 PM	#66
MagnumForceGB Drives: Fastest 2010 Camaro V6 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Newcastle, OK Posts: 3,571 View My Garage	I'll try JB Welding a torque bit into it this weekend, let it cure over night then see if I can get the bolt out. Wondering if I should use a C-clamp to tighten up the brackets around the bolt to maybe get some stress off that bolt, see if that will help. On topic though, the bearings are a lot smoother than the ones I removed. I also had a lot of dust buildup on the pulley I did remove so I may have had problems down the road. __________________ Camaro V6 = 11.268 @ 120.11

11-13-2013, 09:34 PM	#67
sycraft COTW 5/06/2013 Drives: 2017 Corvette Grand Sport-Ho-Vette Join Date: May 2012 Location: Milford, Michigan Posts: 3,201 View My Garage	can you tap a star type bit in the stripped hole, there are more contact points and you may be able to extract it. that's what I did and it worked. __________________ 2017 Grand Sport, Borla X Pipe.....Enough Said

11-14-2013, 01:01 PM	#70
MagnumForceGB Drives: Fastest 2010 Camaro V6 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Newcastle, OK Posts: 3,571 View My Garage	I've tried hammering multiple star bits in the bolt but each if them just strip the bolt out more. I'm just going to go at it from the rear (giggity) with a drill bit. The bolt is only threaded in halfway through, if I can weaken it enough it can be pulled out. Also when the drill is digging onto the metal it will be going in the loosen direction. If I ever do get this bolt out I'm going to drive to the middle of nowhere and throw it away. These bolts are one shot only, they strip too easily. __________________ Camaro V6 = 11.268 @ 120.11

11-13-2013, 02:19 PM	#57
Sikoriko Drives: 2011 V6 IOM Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: San Diego Posts: 1,385 View My Garage	Thanks guys. I'm starting this friday.

11-13-2013, 04:55 PM	#59
Ventmaster Drives: 2017 1SS 6spd Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Utah Posts: 2,869	Time to buy a vice I'm afraid- only other solution would be take'em to a shop. One other heads-up: double check all the little wires running to sensors on the front of the motor. My belt almost cut one (cam position sensor would be my guess- wire runs right behind the belt above the tensioner), but fortunately I just lost some insulation.

11-13-2013, 05:34 PM	#61
Sikoriko Drives: 2011 V6 IOM Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: San Diego Posts: 1,385 View My Garage	Once you pulled out the old bearings you could put the outer pulleys in the over 200* for 15 minutes and slide the new bearings in place.

11-13-2013, 07:39 PM	#63
Ventmaster Drives: 2017 1SS 6spd Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Utah Posts: 2,869	I put some tape on it and just pushed it back also. Pretty sure I disturbed it doing the pulleys- prolly won't move again til I forget and put it in harms way again!

11-13-2013, 09:06 PM	#65
Sikoriko Drives: 2011 V6 IOM Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: San Diego Posts: 1,385 View My Garage	Nothing tighter then a good gull

11-13-2013, 11:05 PM	#68
JohnnyBfromPeoria Drives: 2012 LS M6, Black Join Date: May 2009 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 2,045	Good call Sycraft. Speaking more to differential heating and cooling of friction-fit parts, I installed new bearing races in the front hubs of my '95 Montero the other day. These are pretty big, as Mitsubishi overbuilt their off-road vehicles, and require a race/seal driver to install properly. While it took many, many blows with a pick and heavy hammer to remove the old ones, the new ones I left in the freezer overnight went in very easily. The small difference in size because of their temperature really helps. I'd recommend it. Just use common sense when handling hot/cold items, of course. John B.

11-14-2013, 12:54 PM	#69
Ventmaster Drives: 2017 1SS 6spd Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Utah Posts: 2,869	Not trying to be the "glass half empty"- But while I did not heat my pulleys, I did freeze my bearings. The cold contraction only allowed them to "seat" in the pulley and required the vice to press in the rest of the way. Hopefully the combo of heat for the pulleys with frozen bearings will make a bigger difference, but I already explained my lack of patience!