[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

Where are you getting this 34F? Your original post said on an 80 degree day MAT temps get up to 100 degrees on a 60-130 pull. So during the pull your blower is seeing 100 degrees. Great, they make your gauge go back down, but step on the gas again and you’ll see 100 again. I’m telling you with NO ICE, on that same day, my setup will show 110 degrees at wide open throttle. So I get off the gas and my MAT temp will show 130-ish. I step on the gas and it’s back down to 110. And this on the street, not 1/4 mile. And remember we are comparing a blower barely being used to one on the edge. With ice at the track it’ll be closer to 100-105 during the pass, depending on how long after I dump it in I’m able to get to the tree. This is also 0-160+ MPH.

**** me Jason, this is getting repetitive. The coolant in the lines is 34F. Regardless of the damn ambient temps. I Used 95F as an example because on a 95F day, your heat exchangers and trunk tank (With no ice) are going to be far higher water temp wise and your MAT temps will be higher. So don't tell me that when it hits 95F or 100F ambient your MAT temps are going to be 100 because you would be full of it.


The difference here is as Ambient temps go up, a chiller will retain MAT temps much closer to ambient then any expansion tanks or upgraded heat exchangers. It acclomplishes the same thing as your trunk tank with ice..... EX: an 80F day i may reach 100F MAT temps. on a 90F day it may go up 1-2 degrees.


Show me your MAT temps from a pull with your trunk tank, heat exchangers after your driving on the street for 30 minutes in 95F air. I guarantee its nowhere near 100F.


Or you can simply just forget about it because I already know the answer.

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by Camaro1973

**** me Jason, this is getting repetitive. The coolant in the lines is 34F. Regardless of the damn ambient temps. I Used 95F as an example because on a 95F day, your heat exchangers and trunk tank (With no ice) are going to be far higher water temp wise and your MAT temps will be higher. So don't tell me that when it hits 95F or 100F ambient your MAT temps are going to be 100 because you would be full of it.


The difference here is as Ambient temps go up, a chiller will retain MAT temps much closer to ambient then any expansion tanks or upgraded heat exchangers. It acclomplishes the same thing as your trunk tank with ice..... EX: an 80F day i may reach 100F MAT temps. on a 90F day it may go up 1-2 degrees.


Show me your MAT temps from a pull with your trunk tank, heat exchangers after your driving on the street for 30 minutes in 95F air. I guarantee its nowhere near 100F.


Or you can simply just forget about it because I already know the answer.

You should re-read my message... I said MAT temps are OVER ambient if I'm sitting still or barely on the accelerator, so point for interchiller. When the pedal is to the floor MAT temps on an 80 degree day will go down to 110 on a 60-130 type pull. So another point for interchiller as you said yours only climbs to 100.

What I think you are missing here is that I have a Stewart pump with large lines moving 6 gallons of water around at all times, unlike the OEM pump that sits idle if not on the throttle. While this isn't making the water as cold as the interchiller, it is bringing the water temp down through the HX's with the sheer volume to a more neutral level near what the blower is going to heat it up to anyway (example - the fact that your 34F water jumps to 100F MAT vs my 110F MAT).

We are still comparing completely different builds as well. I am putting a ton more load on the blower than you and we are talking 20 degrees (rounded up). That isn't to say the interchiller doesn't work because it obviously does, but to say a well designed tank with a high flow pump and heat exchangers can't keep up is a little misleading. I also commend not having to use ice, ever... That is super convenient.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

You mean blower + nitrous hellcats? I’ve never seen one with a blower go low-8’s without nitrous as well. Relatively speaking, that’s some cool air being thrown into the intake. ;-)

Yes, blower and nitrous, but still almost all of them are using chillers.

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

Yes, blower and nitrous, but still almost all of them are using chillers.

Dodge did a great job making them mainstream and their customer base definitely followed.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

Dodge did a great job making them mainstream and their customer base definitely followed.

Welcome to the forum Jason.

I had a Hellcat previous to my ZL1. I installed an FI Interchiller and it makes a HUGE difference in IC temps. On a 94 degree day, I would get 34 degree IC temps. Hellcats use IAT temps instead of MAT temp in the ZL1 but my IAT temps would be 15-20 degrees below ambient temps all the time. Hellcats would start pulling timing around 130 IAT so anything to keep those IATs as low as possible and as long as possible was the goal. Lots of Hellcats run ice tanks too though, they can be VERY effective but as Camaro1973 stated, for a street driven car it's the best of both worlds, it's a forever refilling ice tank without the hassle of filling it.

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

Welcome to the forum Jason.

I had a Hellcat previous to my ZL1. I installed an FI Interchiller and it makes a HUGE difference in IC temps. On a 94 degree day, I would get 34 degree IC temps. Hellcats use IAT temps instead of MAT temp in the ZL1 but my IAT temps would be 15-20 degrees below ambient temps all the time. Hellcats would start pulling timing around 130 IAT so anything to keep those IATs as low as possible and as long as possible was the goal. Lots of Hellcats run ice tanks too though, they can be VERY effective but as Camaro1973 stated, for a street driven car it's the best of both worlds, it's a forever refilling ice tank without the hassle of filling it.

Thanks. I forgot these forums existed until recently.

There was never a doubt that they worked, the discussion was more around if a properly plumbed and installed tank, pump, and HX solution could have similar MAT temps - street or track.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

Thanks. I forgot these forums existed until recently.

There was never a doubt that they worked, the discussion was more around if a properly plumbed and installed tank, pump, and HX solution could have similar MAT temps - street or track.

With ice in the tank, it can match a chiller however, as you know it requires you to continue to drain water and refill with ice to keep that level of performance. Chiller is far less work.

[BlaqWhole]

For a dedicated race car I guess either way is good.

For a DD, I personally wouldn't wanna have to lug a couple bags of ice out to fill the darn thing for my commute home.

This test is a normal high powered DD vehicle using a chiller to keep the temps down and thusly maintain cool weather power on hot humid muggy days. And it works extremely well in that regards. No BS, no fussing with it...just install the thing and let it do it's job. As far as what cars in the 7s, 8s, or whatever are using...I can assure you that a chiller or ice tank is only a very small piece of the puzzle. If there are no chillers in whatever category it could be because most people automatically gravitate towards ice tanks or perhaps a chiller isn't specifically built for those purposes. Who knows.

For my needs, having a powerful DD that won't lose power in the Summer months, a chiller works perfectly. And I'm sure many others have the same sentiment. For a straight up fully built track car, who knows what they're doing. I certainly don't know and even more certainly don't care what they're doing.

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

With ice in the tank, it can match a chiller however, as you know it requires you to continue to drain water and refill with ice to keep that level of performance. Chiller is far less work.

No denying the convenience for sure. I can say for me, ice is good for 15-20 degrees at WOT depending on how heat soaked it is, ambient, etc. Just letting the system do it’s thing with no ice, it’s never hot enough to pull spark - not even when I would use the car to run through the N Georgia mountains at “spirited” speeds (seems like forever ago). Here are a couple posts on temps I made over the years with data and gauges.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2sOhI8l...d=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bzl67ExH...d=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by BlaqWhole

For a dedicated race car I guess either way is good.

For a DD, I personally wouldn't wanna have to lug a couple bags of ice out to fill the darn thing for my commute home.

This test is a normal high powered DD vehicle using a chiller to keep the temps down and thusly maintain cool weather power on hot humid muggy days. And it works extremely well in that regards. No BS, no fussing with it...just install the thing and let it do it's job. As far as what cars in the 7s, 8s, or whatever are using...I can assure you that a chiller or ice tank is only a very small piece of the puzzle. If there are no chillers in whatever category it could be because most people automatically gravitate towards ice tanks or perhaps a chiller isn't specifically built for those purposes. Who knows.

For my needs, having a powerful DD that won't lose power in the Summer months, a chiller works perfectly. And I'm sure many others have the same sentiment. For a straight up fully built track car, who knows what they're doing. I certainly don't know and even more certainly don't care what they're doing.

And you, sir, are the reason I responded to the claim that traditional cooling systems can’t keep up. The buzz on interchillers gets just a little far fetched. Do you actually know someone with a properly installed cooling system that needs ice to just drive the car?

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

And you, sir, are the reason I responded to the claim that traditional cooling systems can’t keep up. The buzz on interchillers gets just a little far fetched. Do you actually know someone with a properly installed cooling system that needs ice to just drive the car?

You still don’t get it. You cannot cool water BELOW ambient. Please stop saying it won’t get hot enough for spark to be pulled, that is not what the topic is about.

There is NO WAY any cooling system is going to compare to any chiller in HOT weather. It doesn’t matter how big, how many heat exchangers you have. If it’s 95F out your WATER temps are 95F, your MAT temps are going to be hot and you’ll lose power regardless if it’s hot enough to pull timing.

Jason this is simple. Is your car faster with 130 mat temps or 80F mat temps???

Answer the question, then put it to rest already.

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by Camaro1973

You still don’t get it. You cannot cool water BELOW ambient. Please stop saying it won’t get hot enough for spark to be pulled, that is not what the topic is about.

There is NO WAY any cooling system is going to compare to any chiller in HOT weather. It doesn’t matter how big, how many heat exchangers you have. If it’s 95F out your WATER temps are 95F, your MAT temps are going to be hot and you’ll lose power regardless if it’s hot enough to pull timing.

Jason this is simple. Is your car faster with 130 mat temps or 80F mat temps???

Answer the question, then put it to rest already.

These are your words, copied from your post.

“With the chiller on an 80F plus day my MAT temps are just above ambient, and a hard pull MAT temps may drop by 10F on the hit and maybe end at 100. Then go right back down.”

Your MAT temps before you hit the gas mean NOTHING. They raise 20 degrees during a 60-130 pull, that is the only thing that matters. Everything else you say is noise. I have never once in the 2+ years of owning a 2650 seen 130° MAT temps during a pull, just like your car doesn’t maintain ambient during a pull.

The video I shared is of the old Whipple cruising around in 96F with my foot barely on the accelerator and the other link is to show how much cooler the Maggie is on the same setup. Maybe your argument should be more about how amazing the interchiller is for old or stock blowers, because right now on your best day during a pull, MAT won’t be more than 15-20 degrees cooler than a proper tank/pump with no ice.

So we can put it to bed now. Interchiller is good for 15-20 degrees cooler than a tank setup with no ice on a 5.2 60-130 car vs a 3.75 60-130 car. Bravo.

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

These are your words, copied from your post.

“With the chiller on an 80F plus day my MAT temps are just above ambient, and a hard pull MAT temps may drop by 10F on the hit and maybe end at 100. Then go right back down.”

Your MAT temps before you hit the gas mean NOTHING. They raise 20 degrees during a 60-130 pull, that is the only thing that matters. Everything else you say is noise. I have never once in the 2+ years of owning a 2650 seen 130° MAT temps during a pull, just like your car doesn’t maintain ambient during a pull.

The video I shared is of the old Whipple cruising around in 96F with my foot barely on the accelerator and the other link is to show how much cooler the Maggie is on the same setup. Maybe your argument should be more about how amazing the interchiller is for old or stock blowers, because right now on your best day during a pull, MAT won’t be more than 15-20 degrees cooler than a proper tank/pump with no ice.

So we can put it to bed now. Interchiller is good for 15-20 degrees cooler than a tank setup with no ice on a 5.2 60-130 car vs a 3.75 60-130 car. Bravo.

Oh stop the nonsense already and stay on the topic. I love how you don’t answer simple questions in relation to how much more MAT temps go up when ambient goes up without a chiller, or how performance is lost. That’s what the topic is about. It’s not about who’s d… is longer , which is exactly what you turned this thread into.

[ZL1Atlanta]

Originally Posted by Camaro1973

Oh stop the nonsense already and stay on the topic. I love how you don’t answer simple questions in relation to how much more MAT temps go up when ambient goes up without a chiller, or how performance is lost. That’s what the topic is about. It’s not about who’s d… is longer , which is exactly what you turned this thread into.

I thought I did. Based on the data you provided it’s reasonable to expect 15-20 degrees more on a tank setup with no ice. But the fact that we are comparing an 18k RPM blower to a 26-28k RPM blower can’t be ignored. You do realize more heat will be generated the faster you spin it right?

The amount of performance lost with 15-20 degrees is hard to quantify. Obviously there is some difference, but on the same day I have ran my car iced and not iced less than 30 min apart (had no time in finals) and the difference was not measurable in ET or trap speed.