[dethzombi]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

No I don't think so. I thought he was talking about the slip sections leaking. The ball/flange section shouldn't leak unless something is wrong with the connection point from a manufacturing defect...or was damaged somewhere down the line.

Yeah, so my exhaust is leaking from where the kooks connection pipes connect to the stock exhaust via the sleeve. I'm gonna try unbolting it and torquing it down properly, if that doesn't work I'll probably just put some ultra copper around the sleeve and then torque it down to 45ft lbs and hope that fixes it.

[WhiteMale]

Originally Posted by s346k

the car has long tubes without cats on it. warranty?

I mean Kooks not the Chevy warranty which is obviously not a concern to the OP, just saying manuf may not like some of the options a guy has to correct things.

[dethzombi]

Originally Posted by WhiteMale

I mean Kooks not the Chevy warranty which is obviously not a concern to the OP, just saying manuf may not like some of the options a guy has to correct things.

Already had to weld on to the connection pipes because the previous owner did a secondary cat delete with some tiny pipe and we had to weld on some same size piping and sleeve it on but the weld is fine I tested it to make sure it didn't leak. It's 100% the sleeves. I'm hoping just torquing it fixes the leak, but I'll find out whenever my friend and I have time to do it.

[cmitchell17]

My Kooks leaked from both the ball and socket flange and the butt sleeve connectors. I used some of that stuff that gets hard and crusty. I think it worked, but then I think I had some exhaust leaks too. I hate the stuff that gets hard and crusty it also likes to get in your eyes, so another reason to wear safety glasses.

The real solution should be Kooks providing a proper way to seal the connections. Yes I know they are trying to offer a kit that doesn't require welds and can be installed by anyone with a sawsall, but I think for $1500 a set they should do a lot better than they do.

I got tired of the headers and realized all the headaches they cause and the bad sound quality and extra noises they cause were not worth it at all so I took them off. When I put the stock manifolds back on I realized how nice they were to just fit right in and bolt up like they should haha.

[BruceWayne1LE]

For the butt joints use some copper sheet stock 24g and wrap it around the butt joint then put the clamp over it. It’s bullet proof. I’ve used it on ball flange type as well. Takes a little more time cutting but it works well. Just make sure you overlap the ends well. The clamps open up enough to allow you to slip it on without shifting the sheet stock.