Mighty Mouse catch can install.

EDFHOBBIES · 08-02-2018, 06:39 PM

1st., why did I choose this over the elite? I like the idea that if the block did presurize more tHan normal I'm protected. (THE ZL1 IS SUPERCHARGED FUEL,OIL, AND PRESSURE IS GETTING PAST THE RINGS OTHER WISE THERE WOULD BE NO PCV SYSTEMS or oil in the blower. Under that breather is valve that releases the pressure. I know there is a great debate about venting to the atmosphere vs. a sealed system about race teams and horse power blah blah.. when I saw the copo setup from GM A race team using this type of sytem I was sold. I also liked the fittings and hose it comes with better aswell as the diverter looks more professional to me. I chose to mount mine by the strut frame vs radiator shroud. BTW, the pcv is now located in the can instead of the original location.

1. Remove belt 15mm wrench
2. Remove blower lid 10mm socket
3. Remove blower 10mm socket
4. Lift blower place wood or tape roll under bracket just behind pcv quick connects on blk box
5. Remove OEM pcv valve 9/16 Allen key
6. Remove orings from oem pcv valve install on new diverter
7. With small hands you can install w hand or big hands open end of a 9/16 wrench by using as a screw driver. Install to tight, then back it up till it lines up in the direction on the blk pcv box w the 3 quick disconnect fittings.
8. Install the 3/8 barb fitting into the diverter using a deep 9/16 socket
9. Install the long 3/8 hose route behind the pcv box if you mount like I did if you mount on the radiator fan shroud just connect the hose an angle to where it comes out over the thermostat housing or straight either way don't let the blower squash the hose.
10. Reverse order to install blower and lid see torque sequench in photo and inch lbs.
11. Next you will modify the brake booster line I used the original line and supplied tee vs. cutting the hard plactic lines and using the provided hose. You will use the hose for the barb going to the can. I think it makes for a cleaner install to reuse the blk hard line w quick disconnect fitting. Measure the tee see how much length it adds so you can remove that much of the hard line so it fits naturally and looks stock (see photos)

I made my own bracket 1/8 th inch thick flat stock by a little over 1 inch wide (available at home depot) I heated, bent, drilled using the supplied radiator can bracket as a template then primed and painted. (See photo)

Since there is a hose with valve on the end to drain the oil be respectful of where the hose is routed (away from how stuff, things that turn, things that compress.. if that doesn't make sense do not attempt this or any install lol)

I routed the hose from the diverter behind the black pcv box along the coil covers between the blower lid very clean can't even see it. The only thing I would do is ask for more hose so you can come in from behind the brake master cylinder vs along the brace. I ran short on hose I will fix later.

Just FYI. .

I'm going to run a better wear oil now with a TBN number of 12 or greater and a weight of 0W 40 vs the ESP 40w oil of 8.5.. The catch can will catch most of the oil and additives that are great for anti wear but are harmful for emissions and soot build up. Look it up! You will see that oils like Amsoils, European oils with higher standards, and race oils are very heavy on additives. Great for protection but they do not qualify for low ash.. low ash is emissions friendly for the environment and for your emissions components and do not build up nearly as bad or commonly called soot on the valves and pistons. Low ash oils are .5 to 8%, medium ash oils are .8 to 1.0% and high ash are 1.0 and greater... the problem is the really great oils are about 1.2% and higher. Anyhow if your under warranty just use what's recommend. .

JB'sZL1 · 08-02-2018, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

1st., why did I choose this over the elite? I like the idea that if the block did presurize more tHan normal I'm protected

Nice write up and detail. Regarding the block over-pressurizing, why not just install a breather?

EDFHOBBIES · 08-02-2018, 07:06 PM

I'm pretty sure Jannetty racing endorses that I know a lot people where picking them up at cfest.. but you do need the can so killed both with 1 stone. I can't see why you can't run both especially on big power setups.

ZL14ME · 08-02-2018, 09:18 PM

EDFHOBBIES, is that blower torque spec page out of the Helms manual? I’ve been on the fence about purchasing a copy but that snippet looks like it would be helpful.

I have an 18’ and I know they only have it available for the 17’ right now. Not sure it really matters for the non 1LE.

EDFHOBBIES · 08-03-2018, 03:49 AM

I did a search and found the pic from the corvette forum so not sure. I usually get important procedures from my friend that works for gm.

ZL14ME · 08-03-2018, 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

I did a search and found the pic from the corvette forum so not sure. I usually get important procedures from my friend that works for gm.

I don’t wish to be rude and/or over step my welcome but any chance you can get a camshaft removal/installation procedure for an 18’ zl1?

08-02-2018, 06:39 PM	#1
EDFHOBBIES Dyno Show Queen LOL Drives: 16 SS & 17 ZL1 Both Yellow Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Houston Posts: 4,345 View My Garage	Mighty Mouse catch can install. 1st., why did I choose this over the elite? I like the idea that if the block did presurize more tHan normal I'm protected. (THE ZL1 IS SUPERCHARGED FUEL,OIL, AND PRESSURE IS GETTING PAST THE RINGS OTHER WISE THERE WOULD BE NO PCV SYSTEMS or oil in the blower. Under that breather is valve that releases the pressure. I know there is a great debate about venting to the atmosphere vs. a sealed system about race teams and horse power blah blah.. when I saw the copo setup from GM A race team using this type of sytem I was sold. I also liked the fittings and hose it comes with better aswell as the diverter looks more professional to me. I chose to mount mine by the strut frame vs radiator shroud. BTW, the pcv is now located in the can instead of the original location. 1. Remove belt 15mm wrench 2. Remove blower lid 10mm socket 3. Remove blower 10mm socket 4. Lift blower place wood or tape roll under bracket just behind pcv quick connects on blk box 5. Remove OEM pcv valve 9/16 Allen key 6. Remove orings from oem pcv valve install on new diverter 7. With small hands you can install w hand or big hands open end of a 9/16 wrench by using as a screw driver. Install to tight, then back it up till it lines up in the direction on the blk pcv box w the 3 quick disconnect fittings. 8. Install the 3/8 barb fitting into the diverter using a deep 9/16 socket 9. Install the long 3/8 hose route behind the pcv box if you mount like I did if you mount on the radiator fan shroud just connect the hose an angle to where it comes out over the thermostat housing or straight either way don't let the blower squash the hose. 10. Reverse order to install blower and lid see torque sequench in photo and inch lbs. 11. Next you will modify the brake booster line I used the original line and supplied tee vs. cutting the hard plactic lines and using the provided hose. You will use the hose for the barb going to the can. I think it makes for a cleaner install to reuse the blk hard line w quick disconnect fitting. Measure the tee see how much length it adds so you can remove that much of the hard line so it fits naturally and looks stock (see photos) I made my own bracket 1/8 th inch thick flat stock by a little over 1 inch wide (available at home depot) I heated, bent, drilled using the supplied radiator can bracket as a template then primed and painted. (See photo) Since there is a hose with valve on the end to drain the oil be respectful of where the hose is routed (away from how stuff, things that turn, things that compress.. if that doesn't make sense do not attempt this or any install lol) I routed the hose from the diverter behind the black pcv box along the coil covers between the blower lid very clean can't even see it. The only thing I would do is ask for more hose so you can come in from behind the brake master cylinder vs along the brace. I ran short on hose I will fix later. Just FYI. . I'm going to run a better wear oil now with a TBN number of 12 or greater and a weight of 0W 40 vs the ESP 40w oil of 8.5.. The catch can will catch most of the oil and additives that are great for anti wear but are harmful for emissions and soot build up. Look it up! You will see that oils like Amsoils, European oils with higher standards, and race oils are very heavy on additives. Great for protection but they do not qualify for low ash.. low ash is emissions friendly for the environment and for your emissions components and do not build up nearly as bad or commonly called soot on the valves and pistons. Low ash oils are .5 to 8%, medium ash oils are .8 to 1.0% and high ash are 1.0 and greater... the problem is the really great oils are about 1.2% and higher. Anyhow if your under warranty just use what's recommend. . Attached Images __________________ Kong Ported 2650, Crawford Racing Port Injection, Weapon X 112mm Adapter, NW112mm TB, Livernois Ported LT4 Heads, Lingenfelter GT32 stealth cam, Haltech Elite, and Carbon by Trufiber Last edited by EDFHOBBIES; 08-02-2018 at 07:12 PM.

08-02-2018, 07:06 PM	#3
EDFHOBBIES Dyno Show Queen LOL Drives: 16 SS & 17 ZL1 Both Yellow Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Houston Posts: 4,345 View My Garage	I'm pretty sure Jannetty racing endorses that I know a lot people where picking them up at cfest.. but you do need the can so killed both with 1 stone. I can't see why you can't run both especially on big power setups. __________________ Kong Ported 2650, Crawford Racing Port Injection, Weapon X 112mm Adapter, NW112mm TB, Livernois Ported LT4 Heads, Lingenfelter GT32 stealth cam, Haltech Elite, and Carbon by Trufiber

08-03-2018, 03:49 AM	#5
EDFHOBBIES Dyno Show Queen LOL Drives: 16 SS & 17 ZL1 Both Yellow Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Houston Posts: 4,345 View My Garage	I did a search and found the pic from the corvette forum so not sure. I usually get important procedures from my friend that works for gm. __________________ Kong Ported 2650, Crawford Racing Port Injection, Weapon X 112mm Adapter, NW112mm TB, Livernois Ported LT4 Heads, Lingenfelter GT32 stealth cam, Haltech Elite, and Carbon by Trufiber

08-02-2018, 09:18 PM	#4
ZL14ME Drives: 2018 ZL1 M6 Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Birmingham, AL Posts: 93	EDFHOBBIES, is that blower torque spec page out of the Helms manual? I’ve been on the fence about purchasing a copy but that snippet looks like it would be helpful. I have an 18’ and I know they only have it available for the 17’ right now. Not sure it really matters for the non 1LE.

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