[gtfoxy]

MAT being what it is, with a cursory review, 1.4G/cyl is hauling the mail vs 1.29 @ similar RPM (actually less).

Not being familiar with the centri intercooler nomenclature is that still an A2A? If so an an A2L would change those numbers provided the IC block & cooling circuit was adequate.

Then again there’s always the killer chiller for the PD.

Add: I never really paid attention to the compressor efficiency of a centri vs a PD as I understand a linear rate centri compressor map highly relies on not only pressure ratio, but also engine RPM (translated to compressor RPM), while at the same time a PD does as well, but a PD holds an tangible advantage as fluid density increases.

[asthmamax11]

Love this thread
I appreciate real world data

Several have shared some here

Very interesting

Heat soak is our biggest enemy

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by gtfoxy

MAT being what it is, with a cursory review, 1.4G/cyl is hauling the mail vs 1.29 @ similar RPM (actually less).

Not being familiar with the centri intercooler nomenclature is that still an A2A? If so an an A2L would change those numbers provided the IC block & cooling circuit was adequate.

Then again there’s always the killer chiller for the PD.

Add: I never really paid attention to the compressor efficiency of a centri vs a PD as I understand a linear rate centri compressor map highly relies on not only pressure ratio, but also engine RPM (translated to compressor RPM), while at the same time a PD does as well, but a PD holds an tangible advantage as fluid density increases.

Yes the P1x has the stage 2 A2A intercooler upgrade. I believe we will see a pretty good jump in G/cyl when we put a flex sensor on it and run some timing. This is why I wouldn't boost a stock compression LT1 on 93...you can't run any timing in them. I am seeing 7 degrees more timing advance on E52. Honestly I have never seen real knock on my setup running E. I have had the timing up to 21 degrees on E50 and still no knock but stopped there. I bumped it back to 19 just to keep it safe.

The P1x definitely builds boost with RPM but the Whipple also has a linear rising boost curve just not as dramatic. The P1x is around 5psi @ 4500rpm and ends up at 9.5psi @ 6600 rpm. The Whipple is around 7psi and ends up around 9.5psi. I believe all that means is the Whipple is not being spun hard.

From what I see The P1 kits coming from Procharger are already being driven near peak efficiency, where the Whipple/Magnuson stuff has a lot of room to grow. Now that does not mean the P1x won't go further. I believe Dan Hacker has taken one to 800whp and mid 9 second passes with Meth and E...but the Meth is improving efficiency dramatically on the P1x.

I would love to see some logs of a D1x or Paxton 1500/2200. There was a post of FB lastnight about P1 stuff that stirred some debate and exactly why I wanted to start this thread to show some actual real world data.

[CamOnlyJabroni]

King could share one of my logs if he wants. I think my car pulls 1.5-6g/cyl. It might not help this thread though because it’s a CAMARO forum. My MATs are 130 the first pull then the motor heat soaks the blower and raises to 160’s in the heat and holds there. The blower is able to maintain whatever the MAT is at the start of the pull. This is in 85-90 degree weather. I’m sure the secondary radiator will help. 15-18’ M7’s didn’t come with it from the factory.

[KingLT1]

I don't have logs saved of the 2650 setup in the heat. I do have some of the 2300 I can post later.

[Spaceme1117]

Does the ProCharger setup see higher temps because the intake is located right above the driver's side exhaust manifold?

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Spaceme1117

Does the ProCharger setup see higher temps because the intake is located right above the driver's side exhaust manifold?

I believe it's only going to pull hot air off the exhaust when sitting still. When you are driving a lot of ambient air gets pushed into the engine bay and it is reaching the filter. The log data I posted kind of reflects this because when cruising down the hwy @ 50mph the MAT are only about +20 over ambient. Either way I would still prefer air entering the filter directly from the grill just like NA or PD setups but I doubt it will make a huge difference.

[95 imp]

Originally Posted by Spaceme1117

Does the ProCharger setup see higher temps because the intake is located right above the driver's side exhaust manifold?

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I believe it's only going to pull hot air off the exhaust when sitting still. When you are driving a lot of ambient air gets pushed into the engine bay and it is reaching the filter.

Originally Posted by asthmamax11

Heat soak is our biggest enemy

It would be interesting to see temps on the "California" ProCharger setup.

I'd also add that the OEM's went to fresh air intake as standard in the late 70's for a reason.

[KingLT1]

Agree but I doubt you will be able to make a lot of power with that kit since it's a single belt design...belt slip will likely be a issue turned up being it's a 6 rib that is turning all the accessories and supercharger. For those looking for <600hp power it might be the way to go.

If I was looking at entry level Centri kits I would probably go ECS. 5500.00 and you get a head unit more comparable to a D1 procharger along with the upgraded IC. The air filter still isn't ideal but it comes with a heat shield and I like that it still allows access to the oil fil.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Agree but I doubt you will be able to make a lot of power with that kit since it's a single belt design...belt slip will likely be a issue turned up being it's a 6 rib that is turning all the accessories and supercharger. For those looking for <600hp power it might be the way to go.

Was trying to get as much information as possible about this setup and also had a look into the Youtube videos (by "ZT zoomin") concerning the installation of this unit.
Shared 6-Rib is exactly my area of concern, WHP, not so much, since I am looking at 93 pump and not going above ~ 560-580 max.

Not sure why this guy had struggled so much with the install, when it is supposed to be a relatively straight forward job

Link to my thread:
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=595723

[gtfoxy]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Agree but I doubt you will be able to make a lot of power with that kit since it's a single belt design...belt slip will likely be a issue turned up being it's a 6 rib that is turning all the accessories and supercharger. For those looking for <600hp power it might be the way to go.

If I was looking at entry level Centri kits I would probably go ECS. 5500.00 and you get a head unit more comparable to a D1 procharger along with the upgraded IC. The air filter still isn't ideal but it comes with a heat shield and I like that it still allows access to the oil fil.

which kit was the one that switched to the factory air box location about a year or so ago?

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by gtfoxy

which kit was the one that switched to the factory air box location about a year or so ago?

This is the one and exactly the topic that has been raised in this context:

https://www.procharger.com/automotiv...maro-ss-lt1-eo

Personally, I am trying to research as much as possible regarding such option: Why? Because of its stock-like appearance in the engine bay and relative ease of installation.
Possibly because of the overall (subjective) merits of a Centri based solution as well.

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by Eldi Z

This is the one and exactly the topic that has been raised in this context:

https://www.procharger.com/automotiv...maro-ss-lt1-eo

Personally, I am trying to research as much as possible regarding such option: Why? Because of its stock-like appearance in the engine bay and relative ease of installation.
Possibly because of the overall (subjective) merits of a Centri based solution as well.

Ok, I checked out the instructions, and this airbox does not draw air like the stock SS does. As far as I'm concerned, the whole point of that revised kit should have been to get the cooler air in. Since this modified airbox does not properly do that because it's not sealed to the spot behind the headlight, I would say that you're not really getting the full benefit of cooler inlet air over the normal Procharger system that the stock airbox top in the picture makes it appear that you will. You are still getting engine-bay air, and while the inlet spot is farther from the exhaust manifold, still not impressed.

The normal Procharger (and the Vortech/Paxton) kits taking air inside the engine bay, as KingLT1 theorized correctly IMO, do work better when the car is actually driving than initial thought makes it seem. I would have preferred taking air from the grille/headlight (I had a Paxton before), but the improvement in IAT probably would not have been huge when driving.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by wnta1ss

Ok, I checked out the instructions, and this airbox does not draw air like the stock SS does. As far as I'm concerned, the whole point of that revised kit should have been to get the cooler air in. Since this modified airbox does not properly do that because it's not sealed to the spot behind the headlight, I would say that you're not really getting the full benefit of cooler inlet air over the normal Procharger system that the stock airbox top in the picture makes it appear that you will. You are still getting engine-bay air, and while the inlet spot is farther from the exhaust manifold, still not impressed.

The normal Procharger (and the Vortech/Paxton) kits taking air inside the engine bay, as KingLT1 theorized correctly IMO, do work better when the car is actually driving than initial thought makes it seem. I would have preferred taking air from the grille/headlight (I had a Paxton before), but the improvement in IAT probably would not have been huge when driving.

Well, if the concern is to get cooler air directed to the bottom of the stock airbox as it appears in this new Procharger setup, I believe that it would be possible to mod some kind of Air dam, using a DIY funnel molding or some kind of tube that would draw air from the grill and direct it straight under the airbox.
If the shared belt setup is able to handle the necessary boost without slipping or tearing (6 rib, remember! not 8 or 10) - Then this might prove to be a viable solution for those who require a CARB compliant solution, or people like myself, who simply require the engine bay to appear as stock-like as possible.
Another question I would like to get an answer to (but believe that it should be possible): Opting for the Stage 2 Intercooler in conjunction with this kit - possible in terms of charge pipe directions and bends?