Solid subframe bushings or toe/trailings? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Dexman1349 · 12-16-2013, 08:58 PM

If you had to choose between a solid subframe bushing (ADM or Pfadt), or upgraded toe rod & trailing arms, which would you pick?

Application:
2010 2SS/RS M6 - daily driver

See signature for mods list (coming soon items expected within next 3 months)

ssmike · 12-16-2013, 09:10 PM

Start with the solid subframe bushings first! They are the foundation of the entire IRS! Actually, if you can swing it financially, do everything all at once! You'll have to lower the cradle to do the driver's side toe link so might as well do it when you have the cradle down for the bushings! Also, when you do the trailing arms make sure you replace the outer bushings if the don't come with the arms.

blazzin1 · 12-16-2013, 09:18 PM

100% agree with everything Mike said!!!! Good Advice!!!

Lil' Nasty · 12-16-2013, 09:22 PM

I agree^ Solid Subframe bushings first.

Dexman1349 · 12-16-2013, 10:03 PM

I just wasn't sure if the step from inserts to solid was as good as the upgrade on the toe rods/trailing arms (with outer bushing).

Lil' Nasty · 12-17-2013, 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dexman1349

I just wasn't sure if the step from inserts to solid was as good as the upgrade on the toe rods/trailing arms (with outer bushing).

Well inserts are better than just then the factory bushings (obviously)

But if you can swing it, full replacement solid bushings are the way to go. Cradle has to come down anyways

but thats jmo.

Went with the LSR toe links, trailing arms and they have definitely improved the handling, I also need to get some outer bushings.

ssmike · 12-17-2013, 06:33 AM

I had inserts but didn't feel much improvement till I went with the full bushings!

Bo White · 12-17-2013, 06:39 AM

You have to drop the cradle a little bit to get the toe rod bolts out anyway. Do it all.

JDP Sales · 12-17-2013, 12:45 PM

It is best to do them both at once to avoid doing things twice. I also recommend doing the Upper control arm bushings while you are doing the subframe bushings.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

Snidely Whiplash · 08-07-2014, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lil' Nasty

Well inserts are better than just then the factory bushings (obviously)

But if you can swing it, full replacement solid bushings are the way to go. Cradle has to come down anyways

but thats jmo.

Went with the LSR toe links, trailing arms and they have definitely improved the handling, I also need to get some outer bushings.

I did both bushings with my BMR trailing arms.

You WILL notice that poly outer bushing the first time you drive it. It gives "feedback" on road condition and things out back don't move around as much.

Apex Motorsports · 08-07-2014, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ssmike

Start with the solid subframe bushings first! They are the foundation of the entire IRS! Actually, if you can swing it financially, do everything all at once! You'll have to lower the cradle to do the driver's side toe link so might as well do it when you have the cradle down for the bushings! Also, when you do the trailing arms make sure you replace the outer bushings if the don't come with the arms.

Exactly.

12-16-2013, 08:58 PM	#1
Dexman1349 2010 2SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 1,482	Solid subframe bushings or toe/trailings? If you had to choose between a solid subframe bushing (ADM or Pfadt), or upgraded toe rod & trailing arms, which would you pick? Application: 2010 2SS/RS M6 - daily driver See signature for mods list (coming soon items expected within next 3 months) __________________ 2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build

12-16-2013, 09:22 PM	#4
Lil' Nasty [COTW 4/13/15] Drives: Supercharged LLT Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Florida Posts: 5,957	I agree^ Solid Subframe bushings first. __________________ LiL' Nasty's Build Journal

12-16-2013, 10:03 PM	#5
Dexman1349 2010 2SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 1,482	I just wasn't sure if the step from inserts to solid was as good as the upgrade on the toe rods/trailing arms (with outer bushing). __________________ 2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build

12-17-2013, 06:39 AM	#8
Bo White Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Vance Alabama Posts: 8,020	You have to drop the cradle a little bit to get the toe rod bolts out anyway. Do it all. __________________ Retired wanna be cylinder head porter 2015 2SS 1LE Clutch reservoir, Vararam DRX, ported TB, TSP 2" headers, MGW shifter Totalled: 2010 1SS Wilkes Performance/Eagle 416 shortblock, TSP custom valvetrain, PRC 260 heads, Edelbrock Pro Flo 102, th400 swap, 8" PTC 5500 stall= 535/435 at the wheels tuned Gen 3 Performance and Dyno 10.97 @ 124 full weight in 3100 DA CamaroFest X

12-16-2013, 09:10 PM	#2
ssmike BL1ZZRD Drives: '16 Camaro 2SS, '20 Equinox Redline Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Buffalo, NY Posts: 7,840	Start with the solid subframe bushings first! They are the foundation of the entire IRS! Actually, if you can swing it financially, do everything all at once! You'll have to lower the cradle to do the driver's side toe link so might as well do it when you have the cradle down for the bushings! Also, when you do the trailing arms make sure you replace the outer bushings if the don't come with the arms.

12-16-2013, 09:18 PM	#3
blazzin1 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS R6P Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: St. Cloud, FL Posts: 4,845 View My Garage	100% agree with everything Mike said!!!! Good Advice!!!

12-17-2013, 06:33 AM	#7
ssmike BL1ZZRD Drives: '16 Camaro 2SS, '20 Equinox Redline Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Buffalo, NY Posts: 7,840	I had inserts but didn't feel much improvement till I went with the full bushings!

12-17-2013, 12:45 PM	#9
JDP Sales Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: SLC, UT Posts: 9,621	It is best to do them both at once to avoid doing things twice. I also recommend doing the Upper control arm bushings while you are doing the subframe bushings. Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007