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Old 05-17-2022, 08:27 AM   #29
wnta1ss

 
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Originally Posted by lt4camaro View Post
What are your thoughts on the big MPH differences? The car should have did less MPH on the 86 degree run and Because your 1st two passes were so close everywhere on both time slips with a 5mph trap speed difference. Just seems odd, maybe because the runs were in different lanes and one of the MPH calculators was not calculating correctly?? Great passes and a great job prepping and driving for sure.
He had mentioned that he lifted off the throttle too early on the 116 run. My experience from bracket racing is that you can drop noticeable mph lifting very near the end, and the ET does not change by too much when you lift that near to the stripe, because you've already covered almost all of the track by then.
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Old 05-17-2022, 08:59 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by wnta1ss View Post
He had mentioned that he lifted off the throttle too early on the 116 run. My experience from bracket racing is that you can drop noticeable mph lifting very near the end, and the ET does not change by too much when you lift that near to the stripe, because you've already covered almost all of the track by then.
I suppose , but the high mph seems high for what very minor mods have been done. Laynlo's later time slips also show big mph diffs.
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Old 05-17-2022, 10:04 AM   #31
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Once you hit the first line at the end of the track that would be your ET stripe and there is 60ft between the ET and the MPH line and its a calculation they use to figure your mph and if you let off as I did on the first pass the MPH will be slower even though mine was not intentional on that pass I just let off too early and when I looked at my timeslip I knew that had happened so the next pass I made sure I drove it past the MPH line before letting off. Lt4 is correct I did run over 120 mph on the 11.965 pass when I was running True Street trying to run right on the 12.00. 11.977 was 114 and 12.034 was 110. Just missed it a little of running right on my 12.00. By the time we ran 15 miles of driving and no open hood in True Street the motor was so heat soaked and that is why my 1/8 was so far off and that's pretty much where all the time was scrubbed off on the 11.96 pass.
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Old 05-17-2022, 10:14 AM   #32
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Name:  MI_TIMESLIP_1652614068.jpg
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Size:  93.8 KB 2nd pass

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Size:  133.6 KB 1st pass in Eliminations

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Size:  132.3 KB 3rd pass

So on these slips you can see the mph differences compared to the ETs
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Old 05-17-2022, 10:54 AM   #33
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picking up 28 mph on the back half is a lot. esp for a minimal mod car with a stock trans tune?
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Old 05-17-2022, 11:01 AM   #34
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Did it more then once so runs good on back half and slow on the front half. Its not a fluke since it was done in both lanes. My 16 SS was trapping around 30 mph over the 1/8 mile, granted it was Magnuson 2650 SC and can't always compare NA to SC but that's the way mine have been. My C7 was the same way 100 to 101 1/8 and 128 1/4 mile and it was minimal mods also and NA. It did have long tubes and ported intake and TB but basically the same E85 tuning or close. Is suppose you can question it if you like but I have probably 400 runs at this track between my last 3 cars and its a sanctioned NHRA and NMCA Drag Strip.
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Old 05-18-2022, 08:11 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by s346k View Post
picking up 28 mph on the back half is a lot. esp for a minimal mod car with a stock trans tune?
Back in March you said the car should run a solid 120 and it did so you were right.
Your quote below
now its time to get it on the track. on stock wheels, id say it's a solid 120 car at this point.
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Old 05-18-2022, 09:13 AM   #36
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Guys, I have no idea why your cars are so heavy . I have the same car and it was 3600 with half tank off the showroom floor . I weighed it the day after . 2021 LT1 A10. No wing, splitter , sunroof , etc . Pretty much a basic model . Now it’s down to 3300 with a 1/4 tank with your basic weight reduction , dragpak , passenger seat out , rear seat out, sway bar, belly pan , etc. . Anyway , I’ve been told that my car is a factory freak, but I ran 11.4 at 123 on a flex fuel tune and dragpak only at 1000DA. Maybe try a dragpak . Skinnies help out a lot more then you think . I have draggy back to back runs that skinnies give you 1.5 more mph in the 1/8. I would imagine In the 1/4 it’s worth 2 mph. I saved 90lbs with a dragpak. I think that’s one of the first things you should do, but that’s just my opinion .
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Old 05-18-2022, 09:23 AM   #37
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Mine was 3640 with 3/4 stock wheels tires and with 3/8 tank on the NHRA scales it was 3625 so with heavier 305s drag radials on the rear on stock wheels. So not that much difference and some scales could be slightly different. I had a drag pack on my 16 ss and my C7 but I don't plan it for this car since I'm not sure how much I'm racing this year. I may pull the seats out at some point but not now. Plus I was running in 2200 to 2900 DA and mid 70s to mid 80s. Would have loved 1000 DA or lower.
Not sure if you've looked at my Sig but I've been around here since 16 and have done all the things your talking about several times, theres just not room in the sig for all the things I've done to these Gen6s. I'm just starting all over on this one. My 16ss went 11.71@120 with just a Race Star/Hoosier drag pack and Roto Fab, that was 2016, been there and done that on stock weight with full interior on 93 octane.
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Old 05-18-2022, 09:24 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Duramacr1 View Post
Guys, I have no idea why your cars are so heavy . I have the same car and it was 3600 with half tank off the showroom floor . I weighed it the day after . 2021 LT1 A10. No wing, splitter , sunroof , etc . Pretty much a basic model . Now it’s down to 3300 with a 1/4 tank with your basic weight reduction , dragpak , passenger seat out , rear seat out, sway bar, belly pan , etc. . Anyway , I’ve been told that my car is a factory freak, but I ran 11.4 at 123 on a flex fuel tune and dragpak only at 1000DA. Maybe try a dragpak . Skinnies help out a lot more then you think . I have draggy back to back runs that skinnies give you 1.5 more mph in the 1/8. I would imagine In the 1/4 it’s worth 2 mph. I saved 90lbs with a dragpak. I think that’s one of the first things you should do, but that’s just my opinion .
The Base LT1 A10 is just about 3650 with a full tank of fuel. I agree on the freak, with no weight removal other than a full dragpak and Just E85 tuned to get that MPH and ET in good 1000 DA
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Old 05-18-2022, 09:46 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by Duramacr1 View Post
Guys, I have no idea why your cars are so heavy . I have the same car and it was 3600 with half tank off the showroom floor . I weighed it the day after . 2021 LT1 A10. No wing, splitter , sunroof , etc . Pretty much a basic model . Now it’s down to 3300 with a 1/4 tank with your basic weight reduction , dragpak , passenger seat out , rear seat out, sway bar, belly pan , etc. . Anyway , I’ve been told that my car is a factory freak, but I ran 11.4 at 123 on a flex fuel tune and dragpak only at 1000DA. Maybe try a dragpak . Skinnies help out a lot more then you think . I have draggy back to back runs that skinnies give you 1.5 more mph in the 1/8. I would imagine In the 1/4 it’s worth 2 mph. I saved 90lbs with a dragpak. I think that’s one of the first things you should do, but that’s just my opinion .
Wow 90 lb reduction on a full dragpak. My VMS rear wheels and the ET street R only were 7 lbs per wheel and tire lighter than the OE. Are the expensive light weight wheels and the super light front skinnies that light?
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Old 05-18-2022, 10:14 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by laynlo15 View Post
Once you hit the first line at the end of the track that would be your ET stripe and there is 60ft between the ET and the MPH line
That is actually backwards, the first light starts the mph timer, the second light (last one these days) stops the ET clock and also stops the mph timer. MPH is the average of the last 66 feet of the track. Many years ago there was a 3rd light, 66' after the ET light, so that your mph was truly averaged right at the 1/4 mile marker, instead of 33 feet before like it is now. They removed the mph light that was after the ET light back then because they were trying to get Top Fuel to shut off the throttle sooner. Obviously this was done before the nitro cars were changed to running just to the 1000' lights.
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Old 05-18-2022, 10:29 AM   #41
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Lt4camaro. I saved 34lbs on each side alone with skinnies. My RC comps are 16lbs and my bias ply Hoosiers are 12lbs. 28lbs vs stock wheel/tire weight of 62lbs . Rears are 50lbs each with a 17x10 RC Comp and the M/T 305 R. The wheels I got are cheaper amd lighter then VMS and racestars.
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Old 05-18-2022, 10:35 AM   #42
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Lt4camaro. I saved 34lbs on each side alone with skinnies. My RC comps are 16lbs and my bias ply Hoosiers are 12lbs. 28lbs vs stock wheel/tire weight of 62lbs . Rears are 50lbs each with a 17x10 RC Comp and the M/T 305 R. The wheels I got are cheaper amd lighter then VMS and racestars.
For sure the bias ply is the way to go if you want to save weight if you are trailering. My first set saved just about 100 lbs on my 16 ss. Here is your 100 lbs.
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2022 Lt1 6.2 A10, Maggie 2300, THPSI Port Inj/10 rib, Rotofab, E, Nickey, SCOL, Griptech, RC Bandits, Hoosiers/MT 9.80@142.96 1.44 60ft, 6.34@112 707/669 RWHP/TRQ. 16SS Maggie 2650 9.41@147 1.35 60ft, 5.99@119. 16 C7 A8 10.90@128 Bolt on stuff
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