[Eric10905]

Originally Posted by 04lss

Sorry i should have clarified on my e85 question.



Can the Fuelpump/injectors provide enough fuel once you add the flex fuel sensor and an appropriate tune? I picked up 50 wheel on my mustang, hoping the camaro is similar.

if all you doing are bolt ons, yes, the stock fuel system is fine for E85. (Mine has no issues with stock fueling system). If you go FI is when i hear you have to upgrade the fuel system. I'm not a HP number chaser or fan, so i don't know mine, but not sure about picking up 50 hp from just E alone on this platform. I think most folks say 20-30 from E only on the lt1 engine.

[Fraxum]

OP as a previous 2SS, ZL1, and now an LT1 owner I would say, unless you are a serious road tracker I would leave the suspension alone. Or buy an SS or SS 1LE. Stock the LT1 is a world class handler with the SS suspension and fun to drive. All you can do is marginally improve the handling but you will create a noisier car you might not like driving as much. The sixth gen Camaro is not a 5th gen where the SS did not have the best suspension. But the 5G SS 1LE suspension was a radical improvement. My LT1 is more fun and is faster around a race track than my 5th gen SS 1LE with tires.

I would also calm down on the mods and do them well researched first one at a time.

The only thing I would add is either SS Tire/Wheel take offs, (cheap!!) or get some SS1LE wheels or similar and put ZL1 size tires on it. They will dumb down the steering a bit and slow down the LT1 a bit with more unsprung weight. But the extra traction is so worth it.

The standard LT1 is the best all around muscle/sports car value on the planet. I sometimes fell sorry for late model Supra owners. But BMW also builds some really good sports cars when they want to.

And if you do not get NPP you will regret it later. Unless you like loud all the time. Tiring on a long drive and the NPP will sound better

[Staves]

Just get CAGS and axle back and call it a day. All you need. Recommend the Borla S-type. 👏

[Baddawg53]

I have an extreme view here ... I went hammer down from the moment I drove mine off the dealer lot. If you wanna start modding then do it. If you wait until 36000 miles and then mod and it breaks you're going to have to pay for it, if you're willing to risk adding power at that point, why wait? Add power and have more fun sooner. The LT1 fuel system is said to be good to 600 WHP, I am at 550 whp and it's got plenty of fuel still. I started adding and changing stuff as soon as I got the car, suspension, brakes, exhaust, full bolt ons, E85, heads/cam, race seats, etc etc etc ... Do what you want and have fun

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by Staves

Just get CAGS and axle back and call it a day. All you need. Recommend the Borla S-type. 👏

The CAGS defeat is cheap, easy, and... well, fairly worthless.

In over 6,000 miles of driving mine, I've probably had the thing kick in two dozen times. Run the speed up over 20MPH and it won't engage when shifting 1->2. On the off chance it grabs you, just train your muscle memory to shift to third instead.

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by ember1205

The CAGS defeat is cheap, easy, and... well, fairly worthless.

In over 6,000 miles of driving mine, I've probably had the thing kick in two dozen times. Run the speed up over 20MPH and it won't engage when shifting 1->2. On the off chance it grabs you, just train your muscle memory to shift to third instead.

agreed. On my fith gens that was the first mod I did. But Chevy changed it some I Think it is not so intrusive and as you said muscle memory works if you work at it. I think I hit it once in as long as I can remember.

The best performance mod I did on the LT1 is a shift light that takes 10 minutes to install and it got me down to 12.10s all stock with a rotofab and tires. I am sure in better air 11s are ther for the taking. Butr right now I am trying to get these Nittos. But they are on back order:

I will mount these on my MRR 1LE replicas.

305/30R20 103W XL"]305/30R20 103W XL
https://www.nittotire.com/competitio...g-radial-tire/

[Trochoidal]

As for vendors I’d also recommend Ted @ Jannetty Racing.
https://jannettyracing.com/

[04lss]

Originally Posted by WldchrySS

Let me play devils advocate here. As long as it’s under some kind of warranty I would not go to wild with modifications as It will void your warranty. I’m not saying not to have fun just saying most of the mods like the flex fuel will void it. Break it in and then go have some fun.
There is more than enough power there to start with.

The plan is to start with suspension. Then go flex fuel as long as i dont have to replace the injectors / pump to run it.



My daily is a modified audi s4, and it should be running 11s in the quarter as it sits. Id like to at least get the camaro there. Though given my experience with the mustang ill probably wait at least a year. My goal is to have a low 10 second high 9 second car when all is said and done.



Probably something like Edlebrock SC, upgraded zl1 injectors and fuel pump, secondary fuel pump etc. I want 700 wheel ideally.

[04lss]

Originally Posted by Fraxum

OP as a previous 2SS, ZL1, and now an LT1 owner I would say, unless you are a serious road tracker I would leave the suspension alone. Or buy an SS or SS 1LE. Stock the LT1 is a world class handler with the SS suspension and fun to drive. All you can do is marginally improve the handling but you will create a noisier car you might not like driving as much. The sixth gen Camaro is not a 5th gen where the SS did not have the best suspension. But the 5G SS 1LE suspension was a radical improvement. My LT1 is more fun and is faster around a race track than my 5th gen SS 1LE with tires.

I would also calm down on the mods and do them well researched first one at a time.

The only thing I would add is either SS Tire/Wheel take offs, (cheap!!) or get some SS1LE wheels or similar and put ZL1 size tires on it. They will dumb down the steering a bit and slow down the LT1 a bit with more unsprung weight. But the extra traction is so worth it.

The standard LT1 is the best all around muscle/sports car value on the planet. I sometimes fell sorry for late model Supra owners. But BMW also builds some really good sports cars when they want to.

And if you do not get NPP you will regret it later. Unless you like loud all the time. Tiring on a long drive and the NPP will sound better

I may be basing my thoughts on suspension around my mustang, where going from stock GT base suspension to a full steeda setup with swaybars, coilovers, camber plates etc turned it into a completely different car. I will definitely start with front and rear swaybars from BMR or elsewhere. Beyond that maybe the 1le suspension package is a good choice. I just know ive never regretted swaybars.




Its also worth noting that this is a second/ 3rd car.



In terms of Daily duty, its S4>Tahoe>camaro. That said i dont want massively loud exhaust. i just want more than i have. Im considering the GMPP axleback.



I have no plans to do warranty voiding mods in the next few months. At the very least its next spring/summer. Im just feeling things out for now so I know how to budget. When it came to designing the suspension for my mustang, I had a 30-40+ email conversation with Steeda, and a forum thread 3 pages long to make sure i was getting the right setup.



At this stage, i just know i need to plan for:
1k exhaust

2-3k on suspension,
1k on e85 and tune (tuner, flex fuel kit etc TBD)
and 7-10k on forced induction.



Order will probably be: Sound deadening > swaybar > axleback> wheels/tires > tune




Good thought on the SS wheels! I definitely want a track/summer set with some meatier rubber. I ran some RE-71Rs on my GTI and MAN were they loud.

[04lss]

Originally Posted by ember1205

The CAGS defeat is cheap, easy, and... well, fairly worthless.

In over 6,000 miles of driving mine, I've probably had the thing kick in two dozen times. Run the speed up over 20MPH and it won't engage when shifting 1->2. On the off chance it grabs you, just train your muscle memory to shift to third instead.

Ive learned how to get around it by just backing off, then going for 2nd again. Works almost every time.

[Wyzz Kydd]

Originally Posted by 04lss

This is what i figured. I kind of hate the runflats. I plan to switch to the widest staggered setup i can reasonably fit down the road, probably after suspension and more power.

I'm running 305 in back and 295 up front, no problem. I know a few 1LE owners who report running 315s in back with no problem.

[04lss]

Originally Posted by Wyzz Kydd

I'm running 305 in back and 295 up front, no problem. I know a few 1LE owners who report running 315s in back with no problem.

aside from obviously needing different wheels, is there anything unique about the ss or 1le cars that allow the bigger tires? i cant imagine there would be. but its worth asking.



Also, ive noticed the camaro handling much better as the suspension breaks in. Has me wondering if the 1le kit from chevy along with swaybars would get me where i want to be.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by 04lss

aside from obviously needing different wheels, is there anything unique about the ss or 1le cars that allow the bigger tires? i cant imagine there would be. but its worth asking.



Also, ive noticed the camaro handling much better as the suspension breaks in. Has me wondering if the 1le kit from chevy along with swaybars would get me where i want to be.

Just the wheels IMO. My 2SS with MRC handles tangibly better with the 1LE replica wheels, 275/35/20 front and 315/30/20 rear tires plus the BMR rear cradle lockout kit, without any other suspension changes.

[04lss]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

Just the wheels IMO. My 2SS with MRC handles tangibly better with the 1LE replica wheels, 275/35/20 front and 315/30/20 rear tires plus the BMR rear cradle lockout kit, without any other suspension changes.

Unless i find a screamin deal on ss wheels (like sub 500 bucks) ill probably go for some light weight forged wheels. my RTR wheels for my stang were i think 350 each and weighed about 10lbs less than stock 8 inch wheels. Im willing to spend a bit more (nothing like 1k a wheel) to save weight where i can. My goal is to keep the car at the factory weight even after adding the SC, some bracing and sound deadening. That definitely means shaving weight in places.