What do I need for e85? Other valve train questions

[8driann]

Originally Posted by Black_SS10

I have the stock SS fuel and 70lb deatschwerks injectors. I am at 71% duty cycle. Zl1 injectors would be maxed out already.

As for the chain. Sure an auto part store one will work. Just get a quality brand with a warranty. Most chains are made by the same manufacturers anyways. I got my GMPP chain for around $55. Just remember that the ls2 dogbone tensioner does not apply tension to the chain, it simply keeps it from slapping and breaking. The ls3 one actually applies tension. It works fine, but can break and fall apart. After 35,xxx miles of spirited driving my 2010 chain and tensioner were fine. It had wear marks but thats normal.

To answer your other question. The high volume oil pump will be fine.

So would I need both the ls2 dogbone AND the stock ls3 or can I get away with the ls2 guide? And so should I just keep the stock ls3 I injectors and pump?


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[JLGO]

FBO all motor? You may get only 5 to 10 whp, depending on what dyno. If is not going to be boosted do not waste your money.

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by JLGO

FBO all motor? You may get only 5 to 10 whp, depending on what dyno. If is not going to be boosted do not waste your money.

Yes. If "fbo" doesn't include forced induction, there's not much bang for the buck to be had.

[8driann]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Yes. If "fbo" doesn't include forced induction, there's not much bang for the buck to be had.

Ah ok. It’s because my friends had convinced me because they would tell me things like 20 whp gains, that it does take up more gas but the price makes up for it, and that it keeps the engine a lot cleaner. So do you guys think I should wait in that flex fuel investment till later?

[Black_SS10]

Originally Posted by 8driann

So would I need both the ls2 dogbone AND the stock ls3 or can I get away with the ls2 guide? And so should I just keep the stock ls3 I injectors and pump?


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Originally Posted by 8driann

Ah ok. It’s because my friends had convinced me because they would tell me things like 20 whp gains, that it does take up more gas but the price makes up for it, and that it keeps the engine a lot cleaner. So do you guys think I should wait in that flex fuel investment till later?

For the tensioner, it is one or the other. Your choice. I was just explaining the difference.

There are more benefits to E85 than just power. Yes, NA you won't make much, boost is were the real gains are found. But, it burns cleaner, has cylinder cooling effects, cheaper albiet worse fuel mileage, and feels much more peppy. Plus it smells cool. Lol

If you plan on staying around stock compression NA it may not be worth the extra money. If you plan on going FI or built NA engine later, then it is definitely worth it.

[8driann]

Originally Posted by Black_SS10

For the tensioner, it is one or the other. Your choice. I was just explaining the difference.

There are more benefits to E85 than just power. Yes, NA you won't make much, boost is were the real gains are found. But, it burns cleaner, has cylinder cooling effects, cheaper albiet worse fuel mileage, and feels much more peppy. Plus it smells cool. Lol

If you plan on staying around stock compression NA it may not be worth the extra money. If you plan on going FI or built NA engine later, then it is definitely worth it.

Ok yes, I definitely want boost down the line so I think I will invest. Thank you.

[CamaroCracka]

If you are replacing the lifters, oil pump and the timing chain, you should definitely spend a little more and put a cam in it. You will be glad you did.

If you are looking toward boost, be sure to use a good head gasket like the LS9 unit or better.

If you are going to run E85 and boost eventually, it will take more than a ZL1 pump, or even a ZL1 with a BAP. You may want to go ahead and invest in a good fuel pump. If you can't afford a big pump right now, be sure to use the trap door method for replacement because dropping the cradle to replace the fuel pump is a lot of work to do twice.

I run 42# injectors on a 427 with E85, but I don't spin it 7000 rpm. The truck does love the E85 because it's a shade over 11:1. Comparing E85 to 87 is a fallacy for me because I don't own anything that I would run 87 on. Comparing to 93 is more accurate, and IMO $2 a gallon race gas is hard to beat. I used the Continental fuel composition sensor and needed a retune anyway, so cost to add E85 was under $100 on that project.

[8driann]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

If you are replacing the lifters, oil pump and the timing chain, you should definitely spend a little more and put a cam in it. You will be glad you did.

If you are looking toward boost, be sure to use a good head gasket like the LS9 unit or better.

If you are going to run E85 and boost eventually, it will take more than a ZL1 pump, or even a ZL1 with a BAP. You may want to go ahead and invest in a good fuel pump. If you can't afford a big pump right now, be sure to use the trap door method for replacement because dropping the cradle to replace the fuel pump is a lot of work to do twice.

I run 42# injectors on a 427 with E85, but I don't spin it 7000 rpm. The truck does love the E85 because it's a shade over 11:1. Comparing E85 to 87 is a fallacy for me because I don't own anything that I would run 87 on. Comparing to 93 is more accurate, and IMO $2 a gallon race gas is hard to beat. I used the Continental fuel composition sensor and needed a retune anyway, so cost to add E85 was under $100 on that project.

With a little bit of rethinking, I think I will hold off on the e85 till I actually get boost since I have to do all those upgrades and I can’t afford all of right now since I go to college. Now with that in mind, do you think a cam kit will be a good financial option as a college student? I had a stage 3 cam in a 5.3 truck before and I would get no more than 10 mpg, but I did notice it was running pretty rich. Do you think my mpg will be horrible with like a stage 3 or 4 cam?

[CamaroCracka]

Well mileage will suffer. I get 15+ on the highway, but maybe 12 in traffic with a 416 and a .612/.602 230/236 115LSA grind in the convertible. I do have a hard time staying out of the throttle, but don't kid yourself, if you have a lumpy cam you will most likely use it. Otherwise, why did you even want it.

However, you don't have to go with an all out cam to improve power and be happy with it. Choose something with a reasonable LSA and it will be happy with boost when the time comes, and you won't have to take the front end of the engine apart. Plus, if you are boosting a stock bottom end, how much horsepower do you intend to make anyway. Is a stage 4 cam really going to be that big a difference over a stage 2 or 3 at under 15# of boost.

If you do put a cam in it, put LT headers in closely after and you will really see the gains. Headers improve mileage, so you will get a bit back on that. For reference, the convertible has 1 7/8 LTs.

You will need a tune with a new cam and be sure to tell the tuner to turn off the converter errors so if you put on LTs or go catless, you won't have to worry about a retune.

Oh ya, the oil pump you want is the Melling 10295.

[8driann]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

Well mileage will suffer. I get 15+ on the highway, but maybe 12 in traffic with a 416 and a .612/.602 230/236 115LSA grind in the convertible. I do have a hard time staying out of the throttle, but don't kid yourself, if you have a lumpy cam you will most likely use it. Otherwise, why did you even want it.

However, you don't have to go with an all out cam to improve power and be happy with it. Choose something with a reasonable LSA and it will be happy with boost when the time comes, and you won't have to take the front end of the engine apart. Plus, if you are boosting a stock bottom end, how much horsepower do you intend to make anyway. Is a stage 4 cam really going to be that big a difference over a stage 2 or 3 at under 15# of boost.

If you do put a cam in it, put LT headers in closely after and you will really see the gains. Headers improve mileage, so you will get a bit back on that. For reference, the convertible has 1 7/8 LTs.

You will need a tune with a new cam and be sure to tell the tuner to turn off the converter errors so if you put on LTs or go catless, you won't have to worry about a retune.

Oh ya, the oil pump you want is the Melling 10295.

Yes that’s the exact pump I’m getting. Originally, I had already put the headers on but the tuner couldn’t tune it because it was running rough and I didn’t want them to overcharge me to fix it so I brought it back home. I took apart the engine to also fix a ticking noise since the first time I tried to diagnose the noise, I replaced the cam and lifters and the engine was still ticking. I am hoping I didn’t waste all my time taking the engine apart and it still ticking. I have also heard people say it could be a sneaky exhaust leak due to them not using metal header gaskets after header installs. I currently have the autozone Felpro header gasket and the metal head gaskets will be my last resort after putting the engine back together and Im hoping it does fix the ticking. So I’m in the process of getting everything valve train new plus the timing chain and timing gear maybe since I have heard a few people had problems with the car running rough and misfiring, which are my symptoms (also shaking at idle). At first I thought it was because I took the cats off and had no rear O2’s but right now it has the rear o2 sensors now but still running rough and I’ll just end up getting a stronger timing chain and have a peace of mind. But if I do end up getting a cam, I might just stick to a stage 2 or 3 and I will already have the headers and tune the car.


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[Greenhornet2]

I wouldn't do flex fuel unless you are going to run boost. Too much cost for little effect.

[8driann]

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

I wouldn't do flex fuel unless you are going to run boost. Too much cost for little effect.

Yeah I’ve figured that out by asking around, thanks