[Jaystroh]

One other question for ya if you don’t mind. for the time being until I can get into a shop. Can I just disconnect my power cable from the alpine amp and tape it off and essentially be back to stock? I know that the wires from the alpine were tied in to the rears but If I unplug the amp I should still have the normal power to the stock 6x9s still right? Just eliminating the power to the aftermarket stuff temporarily. I’m pretty novice with the audio stuff so just want to be sure before I unhook the amp. Thanks again

[Petrol Head]

Yes you can do that but be very careful to ensure the power lead is well insulated. The system should work fine without power to the Alpine amp

[SWRocket]

The signal going to the 6x9s is heavily processed by the Bose amplifier. You can use that signal to drive a sub, but you need to make sure it's clean. Many people will tap into that high-level signal going to those 6x9s and then connect something like an LC7i and from there to an amp. You also need to disconnect the noise cancellation microphones or you get a weird sound...

For pre-2019 cars, which yours is I believe, there are a myriad of harnesses that can connect at the Bose amp and give you a set of wires that you can tap full signal from and connect you sub amp or active LOC.
LLJ Customs makes one and I believe S**Thump as well.

If you're using an aftermarket amp and sub, why do you need the 6x9s in the rear deck? they are there essentially as subs. If the sub you have is good, you should be able to disconnect the 6x9s in the rear deck all together and get all your lows from the sub...

[Jaystroh]

Originally Posted by SWRocket

The signal going to the 6x9s is heavily processed by the Bose amplifier. You can use that signal to drive a sub, but you need to make sure it's clean. Many people will tap into that high-level signal going to those 6x9s and then connect something like an LC7i and from there to an amp. You also need to disconnect the noise cancellation microphones or you get a weird sound...

For pre-2019 cars, which yours is I believe, there are a myriad of harnesses that can connect at the Bose amp and give you a set of wires that you can tap full signal from and connect you sub amp or active LOC.
LLJ Customs makes one and I believe S**Thump as well.

If you're using an aftermarket amp and sub, why do you need the 6x9s in the rear deck? they are there essentially as subs. If the sub you have is good, you should be able to disconnect the 6x9s in the rear deck all together and get all your lows from the sub...

That’s just how my installer did it. I really didn’t know what was the procedure or best way. just read on here that with the Bose only add a subwoofer or it can cause problems with the system. I’d be happy with just the sub and not using the rear 6x9s but since the installer tapped into them I’m gonna have to see if another shop can correct it. I’m pretty sure those harnesses weren’t used. I’m wondering if I should get the sub thump one and make sure the new installer uses it? Also I was told that the V6 with Bose doesn’t have the ANC mic. Not sure if that’s true or not? stuff is so confusing with this car lol!

[Jaystroh]

Originally Posted by SWRocket

The signal going to the 6x9s is heavily processed by the Bose amplifier. You can use that signal to drive a sub, but you need to make sure it's clean. Many people will tap into that high-level signal going to those 6x9s and then connect something like an LC7i and from there to an amp. You also need to disconnect the noise cancellation microphones or you get a weird sound...

For pre-2019 cars, which yours is I believe, there are a myriad of harnesses that can connect at the Bose amp and give you a set of wires that you can tap full signal from and connect you sub amp or active LOC.
LLJ Customs makes one and I believe S**Thump as well.

If you're using an aftermarket amp and sub, why do you need the 6x9s in the rear deck? they are there essentially as subs. If the sub you have is good, you should be able to disconnect the 6x9s in the rear deck all together and get all your lows from the sub...

Also if I disconnect the rear 6x9s with the amp still tied into them will the amp and sub still get power since their unplugged? I’d be cool with doing it that way.

[SWRocket]

Originally Posted by Jaystroh

Also if I disconnect the rear 6x9s with the amp still tied into them will the amp and sub still get power since their unplugged? I’d be cool with doing it that way.

TBH, I don't know if the Bose amp cares whether the speaker is connected or not, but should be easy to test.
The sub should get signal because it's the amp putting out the signal not the speakers.

[Jaystroh]

Originally Posted by SWRocket

TBH, I don't know if the Bose amp cares whether the speaker is connected or not, but should be easy to test.
The sub should get signal because it's the amp putting out the signal not the speakers.

Well I jacked around with it for awhile today and the only way it would sound ok is with the left rear 6x9 unplugged. I tried unplugging both of them and it sounded off/weird. then I unhooked the amp and sub and listened to it all stock and the left rear sounded like a buzz saw or as my girl says a dirt bike sound. lol. so for now I’m back on my amp and sub with only the right speaker still hooked up... so weird geez. maybe the back left one is blown but some times it sounds completely fine. I’m gonna take a break from it for awhile. Then maybe have a better shop look it over. This Bose system is bizzare.

[Petrol Head]

Originally Posted by Jaystroh

This Bose system is bizzare.

Welcome to modern car-fi. It’s not just the Camaro Bose (all “2” trim levels)

Since things like noise canceling, auto level control, active crossovers that change the spectrum as you turn the volume up and down, and multiplex integration has become the norm in car stereos it’s become more and more difficult to add standard aftermarket amps and speakers without a full gutting and re-build of the system.

[Petrol Head]

Originally Posted by SWRocket

TBH, I don't know if the Bose amp cares whether the speaker is connected or not, but should be easy to test.
The sub should get signal because it's the amp putting out the signal not the speakers.

With this system impedance is very important. If the load isn’t properly balanced on the amp with the factory speakers it can get wonky.

[Jaystroh]

Yea it’s weird. It does seem to be ok for now but I’m sure it will start acting up again. Lol. Bad thing is whatever I did seems to have ruined the back left 6x9 because I put it all back to stock yesterday and that left rear stock speaker was buzzing and rattling like crazy at low volume. :( always gotta learn the hard way... miss the days where you can throw a sub in no problem. Haha. Shoot they should have put a real sub in these cars. Chrysler and dodge have it figured when it comes to that.