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Old 05-22-2020, 12:44 PM   #1
AndyZ87
 
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Replacing a rear wheel stud

Is there a simpler way to do this without ripping everything apart? Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-29-2020, 12:04 AM   #2
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Anybody?
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Old 05-31-2020, 10:06 PM   #3
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Anybody?
no there isn't but the job isn't that difficult either. Remove the 36mm nut, toe arm, 2 top suspension arms, and sway bar link. The bearing assembly with the studs is attached by three bolts. You can likely bang out the studs with a hammer at this point. Reinstall studs with a lisle stud install tool and an impact.
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Old 06-01-2020, 05:51 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1 View Post
no there isn't but the job isn't that difficult either. Remove the 36mm nut, toe arm, 2 top suspension arms, and sway bar link. The bearing assembly with the studs is attached by three bolts. You can likely bang out the studs with a hammer at this point. Reinstall studs with a lisle stud install tool and an impact.
You can get the wheel bearing out without removing the toe / link bolts. Not saying it's easier than undoing the arms and moving the knuckle down, it real tight getting to one of the three bearing hub bolts with the half-shaft in the way.
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Old 06-01-2020, 06:13 AM   #5
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You can get the wheel bearing out without removing the toe / link bolts. Not saying it's easier than undoing the arms and moving the knuckle down, it real tight getting to one of the three bearing hub bolts with the half-shaft in the way.
if you can do that then you are amazing...the bolts are almost completely shrouded by the axle shaft and the approach angle is not direct. It looks like a recipe for a rounded bolt if this isn't fully disassembled. I tried but it ends up being more efficient for direct access to fully disassemble.
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'21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60'
'17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold)
'15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold)
'12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)
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Old 06-01-2020, 10:05 AM   #6
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if you can do that then you are amazing...the bolts are almost completely shrouded by the axle shaft and the approach angle is not direct. It looks like a recipe for a rounded bolt if this isn't fully disassembled. I tried but it ends up being more efficient for direct access to fully disassemble.
Been there, done that. Next time on my car or friends cars I wrench on, I'll do it the other way.
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Old 03-15-2021, 07:57 AM   #7
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Anyone know the torque specs for the hub bolts and the axle nut?
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Old 03-15-2021, 02:23 PM   #8
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Hub bolts: 96 lb-ft w/ locktite
Axle nut: single use and the washer (11611965) should be replaced.
AllData says 185 lb-ft, folks on here say 199 lb-ft, w/ locktite
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Old 03-29-2021, 10:11 AM   #9
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I replaced one side last weekend. I had broken a lug the weekend prior. It really was not too bad. I pulled the toe arm (I have an SPL), top two control arms, and used a three arm puller to push the axle back enough to get a wobble socket on my stubby mid torque milwaukee to remove the hub. replaced the studs with ARPs and reassembled. I did it over two days just because I was busy. Now I can likely do the other side on the rear in an easy two hours.

Waiting on new hardware was longest part of the endeavor.
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Old 03-31-2021, 01:51 AM   #10
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Order part

Where did you order the Axle nut and washer from?
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Old 04-03-2021, 05:52 PM   #11
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Where did you order the Axle nut and washer from?
local dealership or you can get from a GM parts seller online
11612295 outer axle nut
11611965 washer
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Old 03-28-2023, 01:27 PM   #12
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Do you need a rear end alignment after replacing rear studs?
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