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Old 04-20-2021, 03:00 PM   #57
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I did 1 7/8 no issues so far. If I remember the heat shield covers them correct?
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Old 04-20-2021, 04:16 PM   #58
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[QUOTE=EDFHOBBIES;10996272]I did 1 7/8 no issues so far. If I remember the heat shield covers them correct?


The OEM exhaust heat shield did shield the lines from the heat. But now, there is only an approximate 1/4" gap between the header and brake line. I can't see anything mechanical that would fit?
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Old 04-20-2021, 04:49 PM   #59
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Maybe header wrap.. and motul or SRF fluid that has a higher boil point
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Old 04-20-2021, 05:07 PM   #60
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Cool. Thanks for the help.
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Old 05-06-2021, 02:24 PM   #61
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Did you change the thermostat? Thank you.
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Old 05-06-2021, 02:45 PM   #62
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Did you change the thermostat? Thank you.

No, I haven't. It is my understanding that we want our cars to warm up as quickly as possible. A lower temp thermostat will slow the warm up.
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Old 05-06-2021, 03:20 PM   #63
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No, I haven't. It is my understanding that we want our cars to warm up as quickly as possible. A lower temp thermostat will slow the warm up.
I agree, but I see a lot of pulley changes who do also a lower thermostat change, and it makes me doubt...

Thank you.
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Old 05-06-2021, 06:07 PM   #64
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Quote:
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I agree, but I see a lot of pulley changes who do also a lower thermostat change, and it makes me doubt...

Thank you.

I listened to Ted Jannetty talk about this subject. I believe he advocates a lower temp thermostat on certain applications. But, I think the number is minimal. Spinning the blower outside it's comfort zone certainly generates more heat. So, in theory, a slightly cooler thermostat might help mitigate that heat by allowing the car to run cooler. But, if I get the proper gist of what Jannetty was saying, running too cool of a thermostat could be detrimental to the motor by not allowing it to reach the proper operating temperature. These cars were designed to run at a particular temperature. How much can one fiddle with that number without consequence?
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Old 11-21-2021, 11:08 AM   #65
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Cheap 100 hp!



$395 Speed Engineering's headers
$471.99 ATI DAMPER 918856 jegs
$115 Blower ring LPE sold by me NIB in member section for sale
$35 K080845HD belt Amazon Prime
$9.79 ATI crank bolt jegs
$55.99 NGK 6510 plugs Amazon.com
$350 used normal rotofab or $450 used big Gulp

Use the jegs coupon spend 299 get 15 off order the damper and crank bolt

$466.78 damper & crank bolt
$115 for my NIB 9.17 lower pulley
$395 Speed Engineering's headers
$35 belt at Amazon.com
$55.99 for 8 plugs Amazon.com

$1067.00 just add a rotofab or cut the bottom out of your stock box and add a green airfilter..

Man that's cheaper than my build!
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Old 11-21-2021, 11:41 AM   #66
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Good finds Jack. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 11-21-2021, 11:48 AM   #67
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BTW - How do you like those 6510s? I think I went a little @p3$hit and got a couple sets of 6509s. I haven't swapped them in, yet, but was wondering what kind of life are you seeing out of those? I don't think (I haven't seen you mention too much) I drive my car as much as you do yours, but was wondering what you thought about those?

I went with a heat range cooler than those, because I've only got 91 (and don't want to always run octane booster), so I was trying to see how the car responded to cooler plugs. Even thought Magnuson didn't state to run cooler plugs, I figure I'd try anyways.

Thanks for any comments.
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Old 11-21-2021, 11:55 AM   #68
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About to swap out as preventive maintenance about 12k miles no problems so far.
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Old 11-21-2021, 11:58 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES View Post
About to swap out as preventive maintenance about 12k miles
But good otherwise since running them? Are you staying with that heat range?
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Old 11-21-2021, 12:46 PM   #70
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Yes been good no problems w spark blowing out or detonation.
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