[RabbitZL1]

Originally Posted by wolfdog

Yes those turbowerx seem to be the best option out there for scavenge pumps and if i do end up running a pump i would likely upgrade to that.

I suppose its no different than running a meth pump...just would have to keep an eye on it.

I seen some folks running one way check valves inline to help with that smoking/seal leaking.

are you running restrictors?
is your pump running full tilt all the time or are you controlling voltage somehow?

Pump is on full blast all the time. Running .020 restrictors as instructed by xona rotor. I’m looking for a good check valve and I may make a small catch tank to act as a small reservoir

[Choda]

Here’s the check valve I used on the Turbo SRT8 remote kit I did years ago.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/545

McMaster-Carr PN 7768K21

[RabbitZL1]

Originally Posted by Choda

Here’s the check valve I used on the Turbo SRT8 remote kit I did years ago.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/545

McMaster-Carr PN 7768K51

thanks

[Choda]

First time removing an air bag. Pretty easy to remove it but the tiny clips are a pita.

Make sure you protect the paddles with something before you drill through the wheel. Motion Raceworks provides two different length bolts. To me, ones to short and ones to long. Im going to get the length in the middle so I can use all the threads in the bracket without coming out the back.

I like the idea of having controls using both hands on the wheel but not sure how im going to like the spring wires in a daily. well see.

[parish8]

Are you using your paddle for other things? I did this with mine but didn’t have to drill any holes or run a spring wire. I just intercepted the factory wire under the dash and ran it through some electronics to get the control I wanted.

Edit: I see now, you added switches. Do the paddles still work?

I was able to repurpose my paddles for line lock and 2step. It is a big help for me having the controls on the wheel. I never have to take my hands off he wheel for an entire run.

[Choda]

Originally Posted by parish8

Are you using your paddle for other things? I did this with mine but didn’t have to drill any holes or run a spring wire. I just intercepted the factory wire under the dash and ran it through some electronics to get the control I wanted.

Edit: I see now, you added switches. Do the paddles still work?

I was able to repurpose my paddles for line lock and 2step. It is a big help for me having the controls on the wheel. I never have to take my hands off he wheel for an entire run.

Yeah I saw your videos from a while ago where you do that. Pretty slick if you dont want to use them for shifting. It makes me feel cooler using the paddles instead of pushing/pulling the shifter in Manual mode to manually shift.

RabbitZL1 sent me some info on how to make these buttons a really nice option. I'll play around with it this weekend.

[RabbitZL1]

Originally Posted by Choda

Yeah I saw your videos from a while ago where you do that. Pretty slick if you dont want to use them for shifting. It makes me feel cooler using the paddles instead of pushing/pulling the shifter in Manual mode to manually shift.

RabbitZL1 sent me some info on how to make these buttons a really nice option. I'll play around with it this weekend.

“Wireless” No cables wrapping around the column from external buttons.

[Choda]

New sneaky product came in and testing was a success. I will circle back with the product owner on how he would like to go public with it. I'll try to post it here first for all of you that helped me, shared knowledge and keep me going through my builds.

This is a huge game changer for late model chevys.


I believe I am finally done with all the hard part changes and upgrades. I'll go over the car one last time to make sure everything is good before taking it off the jackstands. I'll be contacting my tuner today to schedule an appointment. I cleaned up my wiring but its not the best/cleanest I could do so I'll address that too.

[parish8]

HURRY UP...

[Choda]

After months of R&D we are pleased to announce the upcoming release of “LaunchBox 8/10” patpend. This is an all in one solution for your launch needs, A8 or A10, we got you covered. No tune, no aftermarket stall converter, no line-lock, no launch control and no factory foot brake launches. Lower your 60 foot, decrease reaction times and ETs with our “plug&play” LaunchBox.

For pricing (TBD) and more info - Email us at prolaunchbox@gmail.com



Here is a quick intro video showing the extremely easy install and testing the transbrake in my garage. I am just a friend and customer of the product. Please use the email above for ordering and questions.



Install Steps for 6th gen Camaro:
1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove Passenger side wheel liner.
3. If you have Aux rad, loosen the 3 bolts holding it.
4. Unplug factory tcm harness.
5. Unsnap TCM and turn the TCM 180 degree. Snap TCM back into place (this ensures no water will enter the harness)
6. Plug LaunchBox plug into the TCM.
7. Plug factory harness into LaunchBox harness.
8. Route small LaunchBox harness inside the car.
9. Mount LaunchBox.
10. LaunchBox has a second harness, with three wires. Red = 12vt key on. Black = Ground. White = Trigger Ground.

Videos launching the car off the transbrake/2step in boost are coming!!!

[parish8]

That looks pretty cool.

I have never found good info on an irs rear end and shock loading it with a trans brake. Does this help promote max traction like in a properly set up solid rear end?

[Choda]

Originally Posted by parish8

That looks pretty cool.

I have never found good info on an irs rear end and shock loading it with a trans brake. Does this help promote max traction like in a properly set up solid rear end?

Time will tell my friend. I would think it will act similar to the newer cars that have launch control option. Do you have factory launch control or use a 2 step and foot brake or something else?

For my car, I just want to leave in boost and not push the front tires through the light. This should solve that issue.

[parish8]

I am able to foot brake it to 4200pm and any boost I command. The issue if you want to race in a class is it is hard to get a good reaction time since I can’t start building boost until I am fully staged. No bump or slide from pre stage to full stage.

[Choda]

Originally Posted by parish8

I am able to foot brake it to 4200pm and any boost I command. The issue if you want to race in a class is it is hard to get a good reaction time since I can’t start building boost until I am fully staged. No bump or slide from pre stage to full stage.

Bump will be in version 2. The product owner was going to add it to this box but I asked to send it as is so I can start playing. Another great thing about this is for future enhancements, I unplug the box and ship it down to him.