And so the build begins... - Page 3

Can'tHave2MuchHP · 07-09-2017, 10:10 PM

700 RWHP is possible on bolt ons, but ported blower/e85/aggresive pulleys/meth etc is going to be mandatory.

OP, with a heads/cam/fbo/e85/meth setup, you should peg 750 RWHP no problem and hopefully be doing 800+ RWHP on E85.

USP45 · 07-11-2017, 10:59 AM

Ok, step one complete.... I sewed up a front end cover for when I start disassembly tonight. Don't zoom in or laugh too hard as yes, I know my sewing skillz suck!

It is a rubber type material on top and fleece underside. Has a 3/4" nylon strap sewn in around the outline of hood between layers. Total cost of materials was about $60 and will protect while front end.

Flex fuel kit should be in today, headers and pulley tomorrow.

So does anyone know where the tcm that has to be sent off to have unlocked is located?

BlueSteel07 · 07-11-2017, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by USP45

It is very good, picked up some solid gains across the curve from just the TB alone. I have not put the car back on the dyno after adding the Roto-Fab and probably will not until it is ready to be tuned. With that being said, it certainly did pick up, the blower whine is more pronounced, and the combination is noticeably more responsive.

Did the car make 552 HP and 565 Lb. Feet of torque stock? If so, those seem to be good numbers for the auto compared to other auto cars. That's about a 15% driveline loss but for some reason other cars seem to dyno less. Could just be the dyno's. I'm curious as to how efficient the auto is compared to other automatics. Seems like the A10 loses quite a bit of power compared to other autos such as Dodge's Torqueflite transmission. It's hard to do a proper comparison though as each dyno can vary significantly from each other.

USP45 · 07-11-2017, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueSteel07

Did the car make 552 HP and 565 Lb. Feet of torque stock? If so, those seem to be good numbers for the auto compared to other auto cars. That's about a 15% driveline loss but for some reason other cars seem to dyno less. Could just be the dyno's. I'm curious as to how efficient the auto is compared to other automatics. Seems like the A10 loses quite a bit of power compared to other autos such as Dodge's Torqueflite transmission. It's hard to do a proper comparison though as each dyno can vary significantly from each other.

Yes, stock with 7xx miles...

Can'tHave2MuchHP · 07-11-2017, 04:58 PM

That front end cover is actually really nice. Who cares about stitching lol.

Keep us posted.

djfury05 · 07-11-2017, 06:35 PM

I vote for a detailed write up on the ARH headers install so I don't have to find out all the tricky shit on my own lol.

USP45 · 07-11-2017, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djfury05

I vote for a detailed write up on the ARH headers install so I don't have to find out all the tricky shit on my own lol.

Haha! I'll write it up, but seriously do not know how much it will pertain? I may still have some stuff off, actually easiest thing for me to do might be placing them with heads off!!

Could let them sit there until time to bolt on. If not I'll give some pointers and tips...

USP45 · 07-12-2017, 11:47 PM

So.... I have learned a few things. The number one item that I have learned is that in order to install a cam in a Gen6 Camaro you are quite simply going to be better off just pulling the engine out.

As of now I have taken all of the bits and pieces off of the bottom, removed the primary cats/o2 sensors, pulled several lines off of the top, and taken the radiator fan out. Now the plan *was* to simply pull the radiator out from the top to allow for clearance to stab the cam, but I very quickly discovered that all of the other radiators for various items are in turn connected to the main radiator which means they all have to come out too. Which in turn means evacuating the A/C system in the process. The other issue has to do with how the motor mounts connect to the engine, more specifically that they not only connect to the block, but to the oil pan as well. There is a little bit of room to drop the pan as the engine sits in the car, but one way or another you would need a hoist or a bar across the engine to support the engine weight to drop said pan.

Once dropped you will then have very, very limited room in which to clean the surfaces of the block and the pan in order to re-apply sealant since these engines do not use a gasket but instead use sealant between these pieces. Basically you will be saving yourself many headaches by just biting the bullet, taking the engine out so you can get to everything, and then doing the work on an engine stand. Not pleasant, but just the way it is none the less. I simply am not going to go through all of this just to hope that I was able to get all of the surfaces clean enough as I am sitting under the car, and then hope that I got sealant on all of the proper places (GM has a very specific diagram of where the sealant is to go and how much to apply) so that it does not leak later. I am beginning to understand why a local very well known shop quoted $2,400 in labor...

So tomorrow I am going to go ahead and get the supercharger off, some front accessories off, and at least the manifolds. I will also begin to disconnect harnesses and wiring. Yes, it will be an in depth process. I will also need to make sure the local dealer has the proper transmission fluid since I will be leaving the trans in place and as such will have to separate the trans from the engine to pull it. Good grief this just got more complicated... Thankfully I have already taken a plethora of pictures during the disassembly process in order to get all of the bits and pieces back to where they belong. Seeing as how I am not going to mess with the rotating assembly I am pretty sure I can start early one morning on pulling it (have accessories and S/C off prior), get the engine on a stand to swap cam, lifters etc, re-seal the block, and get it back in the car in a day. A full day, but pretty sure it can be done. I figure pulling the block as basically a short block will not be too difficult, but as they say, famous last words!

I will update with progress and new difficulties as I go along.

Evolvedx27 · 07-13-2017, 01:18 AM

i vote for a "How To" on this.

DFW1LE · 07-13-2017, 06:32 AM

I might have taken on something like this 40 years ago, but now, it would scare the crap out of me. Good luck and take your time.

unavailablezl1 · 07-13-2017, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFW1LE

I might have taken on something like this 40 years ago, but now, it would scare the crap out of me. Good luck and take your time.

I hear that. 40+ years ago "we" did do this, but I am too "blind" to do this anymore. I stick to my simple, tuneups, oil, fluid and filter changes and tire rotations on my vehicles.

Makes me dizzy just looking at all of that. You have another onlooker....

Infern0 · 07-13-2017, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Evolvedx27

i vote for a "How To" on this.

I think he just saved us all time by making this a "how NOT to"...unless you are willing and able to take the motor out. Blegh!!

Thanks for the warning!

USP45 · 07-13-2017, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Evolvedx27

i vote for a "How To" on this.

Here is some good information for you, this guy on the corvette forum is the man.... very good write up. First how to pull the engine and second how to do the heads and a cam. A very complete write up!

It was going through this that kind of initially put the thought in my head that I would be better off just yanking it, but after seeing how everything goes together, well, there is simply no doubt. It is of course coming out of a C7, and a LT1, but still a LOT of great information.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ck-stands.html

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...all-guide.html

To me there are just too many risks to try this with block in car. I should have KNOWN after watching the Vengeance Racing video on that STG III build they did and they pulled the engine. I will probably watch that video another 10 times where they are pulling said engine to try and garner any tips on what to do!

NicD · 07-13-2017, 11:30 AM

Digging into the motor on the newer LT-x generation really is pretty different from the LSx generation that preceded it. Gone are the days of an 8 hour cam swap for sure, lots more to deal with and it's a pain in the ass.

07-11-2017, 10:59 AM	#30
USP45 Drives: 2017 ZL1 A10 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: McKinney TX Posts: 334	Ok, step one complete.... I sewed up a front end cover for when I start disassembly tonight. Don't zoom in or laugh too hard as yes, I know my sewing skillz suck! It is a rubber type material on top and fleece underside. Has a 3/4" nylon strap sewn in around the outline of hood between layers. Total cost of materials was about $60 and will protect while front end. Flex fuel kit should be in today, headers and pulley tomorrow. So does anyone know where the tcm that has to be sent off to have unlocked is located? Attached Images

07-12-2017, 11:47 PM	#36
USP45 Drives: 2017 ZL1 A10 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: McKinney TX Posts: 334	So.... I have learned a few things. The number one item that I have learned is that in order to install a cam in a Gen6 Camaro you are quite simply going to be better off just pulling the engine out. As of now I have taken all of the bits and pieces off of the bottom, removed the primary cats/o2 sensors, pulled several lines off of the top, and taken the radiator fan out. Now the plan was to simply pull the radiator out from the top to allow for clearance to stab the cam, but I very quickly discovered that all of the other radiators for various items are in turn connected to the main radiator which means they all have to come out too. Which in turn means evacuating the A/C system in the process. The other issue has to do with how the motor mounts connect to the engine, more specifically that they not only connect to the block, but to the oil pan as well. There is a little bit of room to drop the pan as the engine sits in the car, but one way or another you would need a hoist or a bar across the engine to support the engine weight to drop said pan. Once dropped you will then have very, very limited room in which to clean the surfaces of the block and the pan in order to re-apply sealant since these engines do not use a gasket but instead use sealant between these pieces. Basically you will be saving yourself many headaches by just biting the bullet, taking the engine out so you can get to everything, and then doing the work on an engine stand. Not pleasant, but just the way it is none the less. I simply am not going to go through all of this just to hope that I was able to get all of the surfaces clean enough as I am sitting under the car, and then hope that I got sealant on all of the proper places (GM has a very specific diagram of where the sealant is to go and how much to apply) so that it does not leak later. I am beginning to understand why a local very well known shop quoted $2,400 in labor... So tomorrow I am going to go ahead and get the supercharger off, some front accessories off, and at least the manifolds. I will also begin to disconnect harnesses and wiring. Yes, it will be an in depth process. I will also need to make sure the local dealer has the proper transmission fluid since I will be leaving the trans in place and as such will have to separate the trans from the engine to pull it. Good grief this just got more complicated... Thankfully I have already taken a plethora of pictures during the disassembly process in order to get all of the bits and pieces back to where they belong. Seeing as how I am not going to mess with the rotating assembly I am pretty sure I can start early one morning on pulling it (have accessories and S/C off prior), get the engine on a stand to swap cam, lifters etc, re-seal the block, and get it back in the car in a day. A full day, but pretty sure it can be done. I figure pulling the block as basically a short block will not be too difficult, but as they say, famous last words! I will update with progress and new difficulties as I go along. Attached Images

07-13-2017, 11:30 AM	#42
NicD Drives: Camaro Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 157	Digging into the motor on the newer LT-x generation really is pretty different from the LSx generation that preceded it. Gone are the days of an 8 hour cam swap for sure, lots more to deal with and it's a pain in the ass. __________________ 19 ZR1 \| 16 Viper GT \| 09 Z06 \| 94 LS1 GT \| 16 Denali \| 19 CTS http://www.gonicd.com

07-09-2017, 10:10 PM	#29
Can'tHave2MuchHP Drives: Fast Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 3,696	700 RWHP is possible on bolt ons, but ported blower/e85/aggresive pulleys/meth etc is going to be mandatory. OP, with a heads/cam/fbo/e85/meth setup, you should peg 750 RWHP no problem and hopefully be doing 800+ RWHP on E85.

07-11-2017, 04:58 PM	#33
Can'tHave2MuchHP Drives: Fast Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 3,696	That front end cover is actually really nice. Who cares about stitching lol. Keep us posted.

07-11-2017, 06:35 PM	#34
djfury05 Drives: 2017 ZL1 A10 Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 394	I vote for a detailed write up on the ARH headers install so I don't have to find out all the tricky shit on my own lol.

07-13-2017, 01:18 AM	#37
Evolvedx27 Drives: 2017 ZL1 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Long Island, New York Posts: 1,036	i vote for a "How To" on this.

07-13-2017, 06:32 AM	#38
DFW1LE Drives: 2017 SS 1LE Mosiac Black Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: DFW, TX Posts: 1,132	I might have taken on something like this 40 years ago, but now, it would scare the crap out of me. Good luck and take your time.

User Name		Remember Me?
Password