[oldman]

I show Vengeance has one:
https://vengeanceracing.net/2016-cam...ming-gear.html

From what I can tell, it ain't cheap and still uses the factory torque to yield bolt, and needs a "custom cam"?

Katech has one, I do like the normal solid cam bolt... a big plus, and looks like you do need the cover to move the cam sensor so this is 2x more than Vengeance's solution.
https://store.katechengines.com/gen-...over-p555.aspx

an interesting comment on this here:
For eliminating VVT from Gen 5 engines
-Dry sump or wet sump available
-Requires LS3 single-bolt, 4x cam sprocket and bolt KAT-6990 (READ BELOW)

IMPORTANT NOTE: the Gen IV sprocket that Katech recommends for their front cover retards the cam 8 degrees compared to the Gen V phaser


KATECH CAM SHAFT TIMING GEAR (KAT-7011) MUST BE INSTALLED USING UPDATED DOWEL HOLE AND UPDATED TIMING MARK WHEN USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH KAT-6913 OR KAT-6914 GEN 5 VVT-DELETE TIMING COVERS. FAILURE TO DO SO WILL RESULT IN POOR ENGINE PERFORMANCE AND MAY RESULT IN SEVERE ENGINE DAMAGE. KATECH IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FROM ANY DAMAGE THAT MAY OCCUR.

Are there any other lockout solutions, I mean how hard cam a gear and solid bolt be?

[NickyRacerBoy]

What are you trying to do? what are trying to lock it out completely ....the cam phaser? You can get a full lockout cam phaser insert from Texas Speed for twenty bucks and then they'll sell you the tool to install it for I don't know what but it ain't much

[oldman]

Originally Posted by NickyRacerBoy

What are you trying to do? what are trying to lock it out completely ....the cam phaser? You can get a full lockout cam phaser insert from Texas Speed for twenty bucks and then they'll sell you the tool to install it for I don't know what but it ain't much

AFAIK, you are referring to limiters, I already have one. This is from TxSpeed:
"Each gen 5 LT1 camshaft Texas Speed offers will require the use of a Comp Cams Phaser limiter kit. The phaser limiter restricts the range of cam timing movement to 20°. This modification provides the necessary valve clearance for serious performance camshafts with tighter lobe separations while still utilizing the benefits of the VVT technology."

There are several issues with the limiters:
1) the spring to return the cam to the initially closed position (no idea what degree of advance or retard that is) is not meant for the RPM or valve spring pressure that is put on the aftermarket cams. IMO of course.

2) The hollow torque to yield cam bolt is garbage IMO of course

3) There is limited gains and or very little tuning in regards to cam phasing, with medium to large aftermarket cams

4) IMO and to my mind there is a lot to be gained by going to a simple solid gear and a solid bolt, especially on max effort cams.


Look this is similar to my issue with the ARP studs. Sure the LT1 studs are slightly thicker than the LS6 (arp 2000 11mm to 80 ft lbs) studs, but ARP says to tighten them to almost 50% more torque. Really, an off the cuff surface area calculation would show that the real joe normal torque to be about 100 ft -lbs, ARP wants 115 lbs (arp 2000 12mm) which is close to the yield strength of the stud IMO of course. I did mine to 105. So does a 1mm large (diameter) stud of the same material about the same length need 50% more torque? Does even a 3/4 effort blown 850 HP LT1 need 50% more torque on the stud nuts (yes I'm aware that torque on the nut is not linear to clamping of the stud). I would venture to say 10 years from now Oldman's 105 ft -lbs is going to be the norm for this stud's torque outside of max race efforts... but that is 10 years from now.

Same goes with this VVT stuff, if it ain't going to be used, a simpler sold bolt and solid gear will be the norm.

[parish8]

Texas speed also sells a 0deg wedge. That is what I used. I am not sweating the factory bolt.