Homepage Garage Wiki Register Social Groups Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
#Camaro6
Go Back   CAMARO6 > Engine | Drivetrain | Powertrain Technical Discussions > Tuning / Diagnostics


AWE Tuning


Post Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 09-12-2018, 11:53 PM   #15
BlueCamaro6
 
BlueCamaro6's Avatar
 
Drives: 2018 Camaro 2SS, Hyper Blue
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Next Level Tuning - Chicago
Posts: 186
Quote:
Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING View Post
Thank you for sharing your experience and test results, I find this very helpful as I am sure others will also.

Batteries can get very hot if you constantly put 14.5 volts in them this is why charging rate tapers off as battery comes up to full charge.

You can test this in your garage if you have a battery charger where you can command a certain voltage and monitor the battery temp it will continue to get hotter and hotter.

Battery chargers start high the move to low as the battery comes up to full charge just like the alternator in our cars.

I agree where 12.5 volts would be better than 11.8 as far as any electrical device solenoids and such.

The fuel pump voltage booster does not put out a constant 17.5 volts unless you set it up to do so they are programmable, we set them up for 14.5 then after 50% throttle they go to 17.5 this isolates the FPCM and makes the pump run better than ever.

Ted.
Yeah, I mistyped on that. I meant what you’re saying with it being 14.5 and boosting to 17.5 when 50% throttle. That’s why I mentioned the fscm boosting voltage with PE enrichment. My voltage sits at 12.5v and if it drops below it will command 14.4v and then taper down and complete this cycle again and again. If PE enrichment is activated, I have up to 15.5v per my tune parameter and car uses what it feels it needs for fuel flow/pressure. I’m serious with driving it for hours. 7am-2:30pm today and turned it off once. City, hwy, idling, traffic, you name it.

I also have two 3 core heat exchangers vs the oem style (they take up the same height & width roughly but much deeper) and a large expansion tank. Heat exchangers are run in series with the first one (top one) being much warmer than the second one (bottom one), we all know heat rises. My IAT’s come down extremely fast after the car is sitting idle producing tons of heat and normal driving IAT2 is about 10degrees over outside temp. IAT1 is close to outside temp or it matches IAT2 sometimes.

I also read of guys having a hard time starting their cars with headers due to heat soak on the starter. I have my cooling fan and intercooler pump run for a set time in the tune when the car goes off and ect is 190degrees or more. (180stat) Another reason why I like a fully charged battery, I have a 160 also and wondering if I would benefit from it or would the engine be too cold? Thoughts?

Keep up the good work I always read about on the forum.
__________________
2018 2SS, A8, NAV, NPP, MRC, Sunroof, Hyperblue, LT4 S/C, LT4 Fuel System, RotoFab CAI, Headers, HiFlo Cats

2016 2SS, A8, NAV, NPP, MRC, Sunroof, Hyperblue (GM buyback)

1999 Trans Am Firehawk, M6, headers, no-cats, slp exhaust, hot cam, intake, 3:73 gears. Red/Blk
BlueCamaro6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2018, 08:38 AM   #16
JANNETTYRACING

 
JANNETTYRACING's Avatar
 
Drives: BLUE CAMARO ZL1 1LE M6
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: ON THE DYNO WATERBURY CT.
Posts: 15,218
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueCamaro6 View Post
Yeah, I mistyped on that. I meant what you’re saying with it being 14.5 and boosting to 17.5 when 50% throttle. That’s why I mentioned the fscm boosting voltage with PE enrichment. My voltage sits at 12.5v and if it drops below it will command 14.4v and then taper down and complete this cycle again and again. If PE enrichment is activated, I have up to 15.5v per my tune parameter and car uses what it feels it needs for fuel flow/pressure. I’m serious with driving it for hours. 7am-2:30pm today and turned it off once. City, hwy, idling, traffic, you name it.

I also have two 3 core heat exchangers vs the oem style (they take up the same height & width roughly but much deeper) and a large expansion tank. Heat exchangers are run in series with the first one (top one) being much warmer than the second one (bottom one), we all know heat rises. My IAT’s come down extremely fast after the car is sitting idle producing tons of heat and normal driving IAT2 is about 10degrees over outside temp. IAT1 is close to outside temp or it matches IAT2 sometimes.

I also read of guys having a hard time starting their cars with headers due to heat soak on the starter. I have my cooling fan and intercooler pump run for a set time in the tune when the car goes off and ect is 190degrees or more. (180stat) Another reason why I like a fully charged battery, I have a 160 also and wondering if I would benefit from it or would the engine be too cold? Thoughts?

Keep up the good work I always read about on the forum.
Good deal.

I am not a fan of water tanks mounted in the engine compartment it just adds heat to the water you are trying to get rid of.

Yes we have experienced the same thing when customers refuse to take our advice and coat the headers.

I think a 160 is too cold in many instances other than pure drag racing but it was the only choice until recently JET now offers a 180.

Ted.
JANNETTYRACING is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Post Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:24 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.