DRONE!! Opinions welcome

[InFiD3ViL]

My Flowmaster Outlaws drone very badly at 70-80mph on the highway, 6th gear starting at 1900 through 2400 rpm. It bothered me when I worked 60 miles away, but now that I am close to home I barely notice it.

But the sound from the Outlaws is just too good for me to change out. Only way I would is if I went with Solo Mach XL or Corsa Extreme, which are pretty much the best we have available, imo. Although I have been looking into Black Widow Widowmakers and J Pipes.

[gunchamp]

Longtubes, no cats and full corsa extreme. Absolutely zero drone. Couldnt be happier in that department

[sixty9fordkiller]

i have LTs, full 3" exhaust with ORX and magnaflow race mufflers part #14159.

unique and beautiful sound to me

drones like a mutha 1800-2200 tho

my solution for me: Dont cruise at 1800-2200

[xXSharkfhinXx]

im a rookie here and trying to understand this drone. i have JBA catback exhaust , resonator delete obviously and i have a deeper base sound to my cold starts and while it sounds good etc accelerating and such, i drive 30 miles to work everyday and i have to say i am not so happy while im setting cc on 70-74mph(1800-2000 rpms) and the exhaust you can still hear it, its not crazy noises or anything just steady muffler sound volumed up....is this drone? or just mufflers like this being louder? i dont have my lt/hfc yet. will these make for better sound(lower muffle noise) when i add those 2 when cc at those speeds? or do i need different mufflers?

[Greenhornet2]

So believe it or not. The borla ataks are rated as the loudest borla, and they probably are, but only under wot. I get 0 drone. 0 drone when it was manifolds, cats and 2.5 catback. I still get no drone now. It is quite tame under light throttle with a good sound only under WOT does it get really loud (ridiculously loud with 11lbs of boost). But even now every single person that hears my car idle then pull away, then WOT says they cannot believe how a car can go from sounding that normal to screaming demon loud without cutouts. Inside the car with the windows up it isn't even that loud inside at WOT i mean yea you can hear it but it is nothing compared to being outside it.

[Moto-Mojo]

You mod the car's exhaust, cam it, CAI it (my GM CAI alone sounds like a muff-del) and are concerned with how it sounds? It sounds like a modded LS! If this were a Ferrari forum and I was asked this question, I'd say, "mantienilo originale."

[john2012camaroSS]

Kooks LT headers with Borla S-type setup. Drone was bad so I tried the supposed fix attaching Solo J-Pipes. Drone was still there. I've been driving around with the drone for three years. I am pretty sure it caused tinnitus in both my ears.

[Avenging Orange]

Why I always advise people to do their research before they buy. Exhaust always starts at the front.
OP, do you still have your factory cat back? If so, that will be your cheapest/easiest solve. No drone and it will sound great.

[Greenhornet2]

You can probably just change out the mufflers if you want to try something different

[SSammy]

I have LT’s with cats, an x-pipe, and cheap Legato axle-back. No drone at any rpm. Very quiet in low rpm and very loud at WOT (outside the car, can still have a conversation inside). My wife slept like a baby all the way back from Vegas, but when I get on it, any cop within half a mile will be paying attention. Still thinking about going with quieter mufflers, maybe my kids are right and I’m just getting old haha. Before the headers, the x-pipe and Legato were actually too quiet for my liking, only slightly louder than stock. I would guess the stock suitcase mufflers would sound pretty nice with the LT’s. Only thing stopping me is I don’t really like the idea of adding all that weight back on, so haven’t tried it...yet.

[SSE 4 2SS]

There are a number of variables that affect the drone of an exhaust system. Size of the pipe, physical layout (length), internal baffling of the mufflers, and for the intensity of resonance within the car, it is affected by insulation, sheet metal dampening, etc....

I know, as has been mentioned in this thread, there are companies that offer "J-pipes" that are supposed to address the drone. Without specific testing to size the J-pipes, these are no better than taking the recommendations of another exhaust system.

Now don't go getting wadded up, Hear me out... What works on one car may or may not work on another.... Altitude, fuel, driving style, modifications other than the exhaust system among myriad other things will all effect the resonance referred to as drone.

There is some high level math, and lots of videos available on the internet, but research has determined the proper length of pipe for J-tubes to be effective. Now bare in mind, changing the cam post installation, or moving to a different altitude can increase or decrease the ensuing drone, but for the most part, the following chart reveals the length needed for the J-pipes to be effective.

The location of installation isn't critical but most install them directly before or after the mufflers due to space limitations.

Now, to determine the length needed, you will have to drive under controlled conditions for moderately extended periods of time, say three to five minutes each at different RPM ranges... This is generally done at cruising speeds, in whatever gear you typically cruise in. Incrementally increase the rpms, listening and feeling for the resonance. You may have to repeat this a couple of times to accurately pin down the most noticeable level. Note this, compare it to the chart, and find a competent muffler or performance shop capable of installing secure J-pipes. If you mention a Helmholtz chamber, or J-pipe, and get a blank stare, find another location to do the work.... The pipe length mentioned in the chart is the length of each J-pipe from the welded interface to the end of the pipe.

Essentially, sound, (pressure waves) will split off into the J-pipes, traveling the length, bouncing off the end cap, and returning to the main exhaust flow on the same frequency, opposite direction, cancelling the sound waves. I hope that this helps and I've explained it somewhat clearly... Forgive me if I haven't....

[Peachv7]

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

There are a number of variables that affect the drone of an exhaust system. Size of the pipe, physical layout (length), internal baffling of the mufflers, and for the intensity of resonance within the car, it is affected by insulation, sheet metal dampening, etc....

I know, as has been mentioned in this thread, there are companies that offer "J-pipes" that are supposed to address the drone. Without specific testing to size the J-pipes, these are no better than taking the recommendations of another exhaust system.

Now don't go getting wadded up, Hear me out... What works on one car may or may not work on another.... Altitude, fuel, driving style, modifications other than the exhaust system among myriad other things will all effect the resonance referred to as drone.

There is some high level math, and lots of videos available on the internet, but research has determined the proper length of pipe for J-tubes to be effective. Now bare in mind, changing the cam post installation, or moving to a different altitude can increase or decrease the ensuing drone, but for the most part, the following chart reveals the length needed for the J-pipes to be effective.

The location of installation isn't critical but most install them directly before or after the mufflers due to space limitations.

Now, to determine the length needed, you will have to drive under controlled conditions for moderately extended periods of time, say three to five minutes each at different RPM ranges... This is generally done at cruising speeds, in whatever gear you typically cruise in. Incrementally increase the rpms, listening and feeling for the resonance. You may have to repeat this a couple of times to accurately pin down the most noticeable level. Note this, compare it to the chart, and find a competent muffler or performance shop capable of installing secure J-pipes. If you mention a Helmholtz chamber, or J-pipe, and get a blank stare, find another location to do the work.... The pipe length mentioned in the chart is the length of each J-pipe from the welded interface to the end of the pipe.

Essentially, sound, (pressure waves) will split off into the J-pipes, traveling the length, bouncing off the end cap, and returning to the main exhaust flow on the same frequency, opposite direction, cancelling the sound waves. I hope that this helps and I've explained it somewhat clearly... Forgive me if I haven't....

That was a great write up, I'm following up late as the snowy weeks haven't permitted as much working on the car. But i did end up putting stock mufflers back on. It sounds rather good but now i can listen to radio at a much more acceptable volume and hold a conversation. I do miss the meaty tone though. Might hold onto the cat back for a while

[Peachv7]

Originally Posted by john2012camaroSS

Kooks LT headers with Borla S-type setup. Drone was bad so I tried the supposed fix attaching Solo J-Pipes. Drone was still there. I've been driving around with the drone for three years. I am pretty sure it caused tinnitus in both my ears.

I've been saying what a lot more in conversations. I probably already got hearing damage lol. Stype and headers sounds amazing under load, but highway cruising was a chore. Adding a cam was the straw that broke the camels back

[Peachv7]

Originally Posted by Avenging Orange

Why I always advise people to do their research before they buy. Exhaust always starts at the front.
OP, do you still have your factory cat back? If so, that will be your cheapest/easiest solve. No drone and it will sound great.

Putting stock catback sounded way better than i expected. Was worried it would lack balls, but it actually got choppier (albeit quieter)