[Timbo-1LE]

Just grind the nubs on the back of pads down before install.

[carguy55]

Originally Posted by Timbo-1LE

Just grind the nubs on the back of pads down before install.

+1 This helps a lot especially when you're trying to do a fast pad change

[5.M0NSTER]

I completed my first track day with the DTC 60s. It was mostly wet, but we were able to get one good mostly dry session. Here are my thoughts so far:

1) no fade so far, decent bite, but I can see why some run DTC 70s
2) I observed no rise in friction with temp, which is expected given the graphs of friction vs. temp I’ve seen. I need to adjust my braking habits. I’m used to increasing bite towards the end of the stop (GLOC 12 and particularly PFC08 pads)
3) they smell awful when hot, could smell them inside the car, and another person I passed made the same comment
4) I’m pleasantly surprised how quiet they are. I’ve had then on for almost 2 months, and they are still quiet enough to daily. Love it!
5) left deposits on rotors I can still see a few days later. No vibration or anything, just discoloration on the rotors. I wonder if that means I’m overheating them?

Good call on shims too, I need to get some. So far so good, 2 more days in September. Looking forward to see how they last and really pushing hard into the brake zones when dry.

[kropscamaro16]

just be carefull of the abs lockup lol i had it happen my first track day with them its pretty scary if you not ready for it

[5.M0NSTER]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

just be carefull of the abs lockup lol i had it happen my first track day with them its pretty scary if you not ready for it

What do you mean by abs lockup? ABS ice mode, or early intervention due to higher pad friction?

[kropscamaro16]

its hard to explain as it only happen to me a few times but with old pads you could slam on the brakes hard and car would be fine with the dtc60 my first time because the bite is better and modulation is better i locked up the car the first few laps on same corner had to learn to apply pressure differently

[MatthewAMEL]

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER

I completed my first track day with the DTC 60s. It was mostly wet, but we were able to get one good mostly dry session. Here are my thoughts so far:

1) no fade so far, decent bite, but I can see why some run DTC 70s
2) I observed no rise in friction with temp, which is expected given the graphs of friction vs. temp I’ve seen. I need to adjust my braking habits. I’m used to increasing bite towards the end of the stop (GLOC 12 and particularly PFC08 pads)
3) they smell awful when hot, could smell them inside the car, and another person I passed made the same comment
4) I’m pleasantly surprised how quiet they are. I’ve had then on for almost 2 months, and they are still quiet enough to daily. Love it!
5) left deposits on rotors I can still see a few days later. No vibration or anything, just discoloration on the rotors. I wonder if that means I’m overheating them?

Good call on shims too, I need to get some. So far so good, 2 more days in September. Looking forward to see how they last and really pushing hard into the brake zones when dry.

The smell will go away. That smell is usually present when bedding. It's the adhesive compound used.


Don't be tempted to daily them. They eat rotors at an astonishing pace when they are cold. You can lip a rotor in as fast as 1,000 miles.


As long as the pedal doesn't pulsate/flutter when you apply, don't worry about what looks like pad transfer. The next use will scrub it off.


You can use ANY Hawk compound on the same rotor without re-bedding. So, if you want to stick with the -60's for track, then just switch to the HPS5.0 or the Street/Race when not at the track and you'll be fine.


Be very careful with DTC brake dust. Do NOT let it dwell on your wheels if you care about the wheel finish. Under hard braking, the dust is so hot, it'll bed itself into the clear/powder coat. If you then let it get wet and sit, you'll eat the finish right off.


A chemical wheel cleaner is your friend here the weekend after a race. You could also try a ceramic coating.

[kropscamaro16]

Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL

The smell will go away. That smell is usually present when bedding. It's the adhesive compound used.


Don't be tempted to daily them. They eat rotors at an astonishing pace when they are cold. You can lip a rotor in as fast as 1,000 miles.


As long as the pedal doesn't pulsate/flutter when you apply, don't worry about what looks like pad transfer. The next use will scrub it off.


You can use ANY Hawk compound on the same rotor without re-bedding. So, if you want to stick with the -60's for track, then just switch to the HPS5.0 or the Street/Race when not at the track and you'll be fine.


Be very careful with DTC brake dust. Do NOT let it dwell on your wheels if you care about the wheel finish. Under hard braking, the dust is so hot, it'll bed itself into the clear/powder coat. If you then let it get wet and sit, you'll eat the finish right off.


A chemical wheel cleaner is your friend here the weekend after a race. You could also try a ceramic coating.

yup mine are ceramic coated and i also wash them the weekend after with cool guy wheel cleaner works great!

[5.M0NSTER]

Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL

The smell will go away. That smell is usually present when bedding. It's the adhesive compound used.


Don't be tempted to daily them. They eat rotors at an astonishing pace when they are cold. You can lip a rotor in as fast as 1,000 miles.


As long as the pedal doesn't pulsate/flutter when you apply, don't worry about what looks like pad transfer. The next use will scrub it off.


You can use ANY Hawk compound on the same rotor without re-bedding. So, if you want to stick with the -60's for track, then just switch to the HPS5.0 or the Street/Race when not at the track and you'll be fine.


Be very careful with DTC brake dust. Do NOT let it dwell on your wheels if you care about the wheel finish. Under hard braking, the dust is so hot, it'll bed itself into the clear/powder coat. If you then let it get wet and sit, you'll eat the finish right off.


A chemical wheel cleaner is your friend here the weekend after a race. You could also try a ceramic coating.

Thanks for the tips, and good to know. I don't care too much about the appearance of the wheels, and I wash the car once a month or so. Definitely after track days tho.

This season I'll just keep the 60's in till at least end of September. I have 2 track days scheduled between now and then. Next season I guess I have to think about it.

I have been swapping various daily/track pads on same rotors on 3 different cars since 2013. If I decide to swap, I will just stick the OE pads back in. By the end of the first session of the day the rotors don't care much either way. It would be sooooo nice to just keep them in and save myself the 2-3h it takes me to swap back and forth a few times per summer.

[kropscamaro16]

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER

Thanks for the tips, and good to know. I don't care too much about the appearance of the wheels, and I wash the car once a month or so. Definitely after track days tho.

This season I'll just keep the 60's in till at least end of September. I have 2 track days scheduled between now and then. Next season I guess I have to think about it.

I have been swapping various daily/track pads on same rotors on 3 different cars since 2013. If I decide to swap, I will just stick the OE pads back in. By the end of the first session of the day the rotors don't care much either way. It would be sooooo nice to just keep them in and save myself the 2-3h it takes me to swap back and forth a few times per summer.

i dont drive my car much and i have had them in since may or so 2 track days about 2000 street miles no problems so far...