03-13-2019, 02:41 PM | #15 |
Drives: 2014 Z/28 #82+#192, 18ZLE 66Nova Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: By the lake in AZ
Posts: 15,719
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hope this helps, the green is the diamond, thats so you know how your car is wired, look at the options thats how your car is wired.
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03-13-2019, 03:22 PM | #16 | |
Drives: 2SS Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Europe
Posts: 130
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03-14-2019, 02:46 PM | #17 |
Drives: 2SS Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Europe
Posts: 130
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03-15-2019, 12:29 PM | #18 | |
Drives: 2014 Z/28 #82+#192, 18ZLE 66Nova Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: By the lake in AZ
Posts: 15,719
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03-15-2019, 06:07 PM | #19 |
Drives: 2SS Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Europe
Posts: 130
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03-18-2019, 01:39 PM | #20 |
Drives: 2SS Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Europe
Posts: 130
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All right, i brought wires from the front blinkers and also brake signal from 3rd brake lamp and so I managed to eliminate the blue/white wire which was common for brake and turn signal. Problem now is other, the turn signal lights will hyperblink now regardless of what led + resistor I use, or classic bulb or whatever, and I came to the conclusion that the white/violet wire has sth to do with this. On OE assembley, the white/violet wire has 12v all the time, unless brake or turn signal is used, then it shows 0v. Now, as I don't use anymore the same circuit for the turn signals, the white/violet wire stays 12v even when I use turn signals and that is causing the hyperblink, any sugestions on how to deal with this?
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04-23-2019, 01:31 PM | #21 |
Drives: 2018 Chevrolet Camaro 2LT Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 107
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Try just connecting the WH/VT to ground. Should indicate that the bulb is functioning although it may not work if the car also checks that the bulb isn't on when it shouldn't be. If that doesn't work you'll have to find some way to ground it when ever the lights are on.
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03-21-2020, 03:40 PM | #22 | |
Drives: V6 2LT Camaro Overkilled Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Sofia
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Did find a solution to this problem? I am experiencing the same issue. I bought new darken tail lights that are designed for the EU market(with yellow turn signal), but it turns out the wiring is different.And now i get hyper blinking, even though my stock lights are LED. Last edited by n12k1; 03-22-2020 at 08:44 AM. |
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06-07-2020, 11:20 AM | #23 |
Drives: Camaro SS 2018 Convertible Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 116
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Any findings here?
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06-08-2020, 01:24 PM | #24 |
Drives: 2023 2SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 1,057
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I can give you guys some theory about how the lamp is designed electrically, but I am not sure I can give you a solution to the fast flash. In a regular bulb, the BCM can tell the difference in amperage between when a bulb is functioning or not (this used to happen in the flasher box/relay/thing).
But on an LED, with really low current, the BCM can't tell when just one LED goes out, but legally, it needs to (called outage detection and it is FMVSS). So what they do is run an extra wire to the lamp that the BCM monitors. Inside of the LED lamp, there is a circuit board that monitors the LED array and can tell when it has an outage. Under normal operation, the circuit board in the lamp will run the extra wire in opposite polarity of the turn signal pulse - when the BCM sees this, it knows everything is fine. When the circuit in the lamp detects an outage, it will pull the extra wire down to ground and hold it there, thus signaling the BCM that there is something wrong with the LED array. So I think the issue you are asking about is that the LED fast flashes when you hook it up to a socket that normally has a bulb. If it normally has a bulb, the BCM is looking for that 1 Amp of current, and when the LED only pulls 50 mA, the BCM thinks the bulb is out. As for a solution - you need to pull the same amount of current that the bulb pulls. Maybe Gen5DIY knows how to do this. The trick is doing this while maintaining the voltage to the lamp. Even then, I am not sure that this alone will work. The lamp might know internally that it is missing the extra wire and do something screwy. I am not exactly sure what a T20 turn signal pulls, but if it is 1 amp, then you could use Ohms law V=IR or I=V/R to calculate a resistance. At 1 amp and 12 volts, that would be like a 12 Ohm resistor, but it would need to be at least 12 watts, though, to handle all that current. Most resistors you see are small like 1/4 watt. We are talking a HUGE resistor - you can probably get it on Mouser or Digikey. If you put that in parallel with the turn signal power and ground, it might work. That is what I would try. I would ask one of the lighting companies though to be sure, they might even make a harness. -Geoff
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'12 2SS RS Convertible - Traded in.
'16 2SS Convertible - White on white, mag-ride, NPP, nav. Sold! '23 2SS Convertible -Same as above except orange. |
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