[2SSRS@Gen5diy]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

Here are the pertinent schematics from the repair manual. If anyone can shed some light on the meaning of the symbols such as square, diamond, and circle with X, I would appreciate it!

hope this helps, the green is the diamond, thats so you know how your car is wired, look at the options thats how your car is wired.

[raidaru]

Originally Posted by 2SSRS@Gen5diy

OP is your car a USA car or a euro car? if its a euro car need to know if its a LED tail lights or not? from there we can try to help, and on that socket with 3 wires but only needing 2 wire GM does that and runs the 3rd wire to the next socket, they do that to save weight, its called daisy chaining the wires.

Car is US model with led tail lights. As the brake/turn signal share common wire, I had to bring some wire from the 3rd brake light to the other two, also for turn signal lights alone I will have to bring wires all the way from the front turn signals. It's a PITA more than I imagined.......

[raidaru]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

Here are the pertinent schematics from the repair manual. If anyone can shed some light on the meaning of the symbols such as square, diamond, and circle with X, I would appreciate it!

Could it be that you also have the schematic for the front headlamps?

[2SSRS@Gen5diy]

Originally Posted by raidaru

Car is US model with led tail lights. As the brake/turn signal share common wire, I had to bring some wire from the 3rd brake light to the other two, also for turn signal lights alone I will have to bring wires all the way from the front turn signals. It's a PITA more than I imagined.......

You did not need to do all that work, we have a unit that will split your turn/ stop light in to 2 wires one for stop and one for the turn, its all done in the back.

[raidaru]

Originally Posted by 2SSRS@Gen5diy

You did not need to do all that work, we have a unit that will split your turn/ stop light in to 2 wires one for stop and one for the turn, its all done in the back.

link? here or PM please

[raidaru]

All right, i brought wires from the front blinkers and also brake signal from 3rd brake lamp and so I managed to eliminate the blue/white wire which was common for brake and turn signal. Problem now is other, the turn signal lights will hyperblink now regardless of what led + resistor I use, or classic bulb or whatever, and I came to the conclusion that the white/violet wire has sth to do with this. On OE assembley, the white/violet wire has 12v all the time, unless brake or turn signal is used, then it shows 0v. Now, as I don't use anymore the same circuit for the turn signals, the white/violet wire stays 12v even when I use turn signals and that is causing the hyperblink, any sugestions on how to deal with this?

[IceGoaliePaul]

Try just connecting the WH/VT to ground. Should indicate that the bulb is functioning although it may not work if the car also checks that the bulb isn't on when it shouldn't be. If that doesn't work you'll have to find some way to ground it when ever the lights are on.

[n12k1]

Originally Posted by raidaru

All right, i brought wires from the front blinkers and also brake signal from 3rd brake lamp and so I managed to eliminate the blue/white wire which was common for brake and turn signal. Problem now is other, the turn signal lights will hyperblink now regardless of what led + resistor I use, or classic bulb or whatever, and I came to the conclusion that the white/violet wire has sth to do with this. On OE assembley, the white/violet wire has 12v all the time, unless brake or turn signal is used, then it shows 0v. Now, as I don't use anymore the same circuit for the turn signals, the white/violet wire stays 12v even when I use turn signals and that is causing the hyperblink, any sugestions on how to deal with this?

Did find a solution to this problem? I am experiencing the same issue. I bought new darken tail lights that are designed for the EU market(with yellow turn signal), but it turns out the wiring is different.And now i get hyper blinking, even though my stock lights are LED.

[bereic]

Any findings here?

[SomeGeoffGuy]

I can give you guys some theory about how the lamp is designed electrically, but I am not sure I can give you a solution to the fast flash. In a regular bulb, the BCM can tell the difference in amperage between when a bulb is functioning or not (this used to happen in the flasher box/relay/thing).

But on an LED, with really low current, the BCM can't tell when just one LED goes out, but legally, it needs to (called outage detection and it is FMVSS). So what they do is run an extra wire to the lamp that the BCM monitors. Inside of the LED lamp, there is a circuit board that monitors the LED array and can tell when it has an outage.

Under normal operation, the circuit board in the lamp will run the extra wire in opposite polarity of the turn signal pulse - when the BCM sees this, it knows everything is fine. When the circuit in the lamp detects an outage, it will pull the extra wire down to ground and hold it there, thus signaling the BCM that there is something wrong with the LED array.

So I think the issue you are asking about is that the LED fast flashes when you hook it up to a socket that normally has a bulb. If it normally has a bulb, the BCM is looking for that 1 Amp of current, and when the LED only pulls 50 mA, the BCM thinks the bulb is out.

As for a solution - you need to pull the same amount of current that the bulb pulls. Maybe Gen5DIY knows how to do this. The trick is doing this while maintaining the voltage to the lamp. Even then, I am not sure that this alone will work. The lamp might know internally that it is missing the extra wire and do something screwy.

I am not exactly sure what a T20 turn signal pulls, but if it is 1 amp, then you could use Ohms law V=IR or I=V/R to calculate a resistance. At 1 amp and 12 volts, that would be like a 12 Ohm resistor, but it would need to be at least 12 watts, though, to handle all that current. Most resistors you see are small like 1/4 watt. We are talking a HUGE resistor - you can probably get it on Mouser or Digikey. If you put that in parallel with the turn signal power and ground, it might work. That is what I would try. I would ask one of the lighting companies though to be sure, they might even make a harness.

-Geoff