[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Boost Creep

I don't track the car, but I do change the oil at about 50% life.
Funny thing I noticed is the oil life monitor in the Camaro is more aggressive than my '08 C6.
Same driving and the Camaro hits 50% where the C6 would be closer to 70% life left.

Frankly i change oil at 50% on all my vehicles.
The diff between the C7 and the Camaro is interesting. I wonder if the weight has anything to do with it?

[cdrptrks]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Since majority of "track rats" do somewhere between 15 and 30 days per season, heat checks become a problem way before rotor thickness.

Thanks for sharing all of those details! Do you have any example pictures of rotors with acceptable vs. unacceptable heat checks? This is my first car where I am seeing heat checks on the rotors so trying to learn what to look for specifically. Here is one of my front rotors at slightly over half of the thickness used. The heat checks feel like bumps when dragging my fingernail along the rotor but they don't snag my fingernail. None of them are all the way to an edge either. They looked/felt similar when I bought the car last year and I added 5 track days since then on stock Fedoro pads.

[artey34]

Originally Posted by cdrptrks

How much time on track do you consider a day? Are you using stock SS 1LE Fedoro brake pads? Are you going from 34mm new thickness to 32mm discard thickness in that time?

SS 1LE rotor specs: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...59&postcount=7

Have you done a Blackstone (or similar) analysis on the used fluids? That diff/transmission fluid interval seems significantly shorter than anything mentioned in the manual or high performance supplement. The supplement also says to disregard the oil life monitor when tracking and change the oil every 4 track hours with 0w40 dexos2 or 5w40 dexos2.

So the front rotors start at 1.339" thick, and you need new ones at 1.26"?

[Midnight Rat]

didnt want to start another thread, but a 2019 camaro 1le i ordered showed up yesterday and it was missing the master cylinder cap. came from factory like that because i was there when it came off the truck. figure its been like that for at least 30 days. what do you all recommend i have the service department do during pdi

[kjchristopher]

Originally Posted by Midnight Rat

didnt want to start another thread, but a 2019 camaro 1le i ordered showed up yesterday and it was missing the master cylinder cap. came from factory like that because i was there when it came off the truck. figure its been like that for at least 30 days. what do you all recommend i have the service department do during pdi

I'd want a complete flush if it was open for 30 days. However, given this was shipped I'd be too concerned about what splashed out starting corrosion (and that it is easy to find a replacement car) I'd probably refuse delivery in your case. YMMV

[Midnight Rat]

funny thing is the level was good and i didnt see any sign of it spilling over. the qc process sucks. I mean your eyes after opening the hood went straight to the missing cap. I mean i asked the salesman to find a plastic or foil to put on since parts and service was closed He acted like it was no big deal, so i shut the hood and drove off.

Originally Posted by kjchristopher

I'd want a complete flush if it was open for 30 days. However, given this was shipped I'd be too concerned about what splashed out starting corrosion (and that it is easy to find a replacement car) I'd probably refuse delivery in your case. YMMV

[Boost Creep]

Originally Posted by Midnight Rat

didnt want to start another thread, but a 2019 camaro 1le i ordered showed up yesterday and it was missing the master cylinder cap. came from factory like that because i was there when it came off the truck. figure its been like that for at least 30 days. what do you all recommend i have the service department do during pdi

Yeah, I'd have them flush the system and maybe get them to put in some SRF or whatever good DOT 4 you can get ahold of, then I'd flush it again after a few weeks just to eliminate any moisture hiding in the system.

30 days in summer humidity probably saturated the brake fluid.
They sell testers for brake fluid moisture levels, MAC has one that I know of, probably Snap-on too.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by cdrptrks

Thanks for sharing all of those details! Do you have any example pictures of rotors with acceptable vs. unacceptable heat checks? This is my first car where I am seeing heat checks on the rotors so trying to learn what to look for specifically. Here is one of my front rotors at slightly over half of the thickness used. The heat checks feel like bumps when dragging my fingernail along the rotor but they don't snag my fingernail. None of them are all the way to an edge either. They looked/felt similar when I bought the car last year and I added 5 track days since then on stock Fedoro pads.

Sorry no pix. The decision when to replace is rather subjective. Some folks i know push it to the max way beyond what i would be comfy with. I prefer to be a bit on a conservative side, as i have had split a couple rotors (not on a Camaro) and i prefer not to think about whether my rotors will hold up and stop the car... But that usually happens when heat checks widen and/or join together into longer lines that head to the outside. The tell tale is rather obvious. Having said that, your pic looks like the rotor has likely seen a high torque pad, with tons of heat checks plus grooves, which usually happen from such a pad. With stock Ferodos the surface wears very evenly as they are gentle on rotors.
If they are down 1mm thickness wise, plus the sheer number and wide area of heat checks (albeit still small) i would start thinking of ordering a new set to have it handly.

[cdrptrks]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Sorry no pix. The decision when to replace is rather subjective. Some folks i know push it to the max way beyond what i would be comfy with. I prefer to be a bit on a conservative side, as i have had split a couple rotors (not on a Camaro) and i prefer not to think about whether my rotors will hold up and stop the car... But that usually happens when heat checks widen and/or join together into longer lines that head to the outside. The tell tale is rather obvious. Having said that, your pic looks like the rotor has likely seen a high torque pad, with tons of heat checks plus grooves, which usually happen from such a pad. With stock Ferodos the surface wears very evenly as they are gentle on rotors.
If they are down 1mm thickness wise, plus the sheer number and wide area of heat checks (albeit still small) i would start thinking of ordering a new set to have it handly.

Ok thanks, the previous owner may have used a non-stock pad and returned to stock pads before trading it in.

Originally Posted by artey34

So the front rotors start at 1.339" thick, and you need new ones at 1.26"?

Correct. You could probably get away with letting them wear thinner than that if you never track the car but obviously that isn't recommended.

Digital calipers make it easy to precisely measure the rotor thickness: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-d...ngs-63731.html

[TrackClub]

Yep...but keep in mind these are just my musings
In any case, zero doubt previous owner tracked her.
Not a bad thing, obviously, but something to be aware of. Cheers!

[artey34]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Pretty much. As mentioned in one of the posts above, the thinner they get the more heat and the faster they wear. I certainly would not start with anything less than 50% but it is also venue dependent and also how many days does an event have. Single day no probs. 2 or 3 of hard running and they would most likely run out. Good idea to carry spares, like maybe a set of 50% or less worn ones just in case...

If you were to swap pads at the track mid day, to identical pads, do you need to go through the burnish procedure? Or are you good to go back out on the track

[Alpha1BC]

Originally Posted by artey34

If you were to swap pads at the track mid day, to identical pads, do you need to go through the burnish procedure? Or are you good to go back out on the track

I'd try to run your spare set on the car a little before taking them to the track if you've never used them before. Doesn't need to be a full burnish procedure so to speak, but a moderate heat cycle or two won't hurt. Will help the pad contour to the grooves in the rotor surface, so mark which corner you used them on and if they were inner or outer. Also, probably more importantly, that gives you a chance to make sure the pads are free from unseen defects that would cause chunking or some failure like that. You don't want to find out the pads are garbage on the track...

If you have used them before, just throw them on and go.

[Mountain]

I want to circle back and add to this due to my experience with stock pad wear and use:

Did a SCCA Time Trial this weekend. My front pads were at around 7.5mm before leaving for the event. I bought an extra set of front pads just in case (glad I did) as I wasn’t sure I had enough for the entire event; the event consisted of:
Day 1 = two 20-min practice sessions and two 20-minute time trial sessions
Day 2 = three track sprint laps and two 20-minute time trial sessions

At the end of the first 20-minute time trial session, on Day 1, I had to be very cognisant on what I was doing with my braking otherwise I’d start to loose brake force mid-braking. I ran the car no problem the second 20-minute time trial session without issue, making sure my braking was as efficient as possible. I decided to swap to the other set of pads I bought (OEM replacement Ferodo). Upon measurement of the old pads, I found all four with [normal] taper wear, top to bottom (largest to smallest piston contact area). Measurements went something like this (top to bottom): 4.80mm-4.95mm-5.40mm.

Zero brake issues with the fresh pads in throughout Day 2. Fresh pads were 9.65mm pad material thickness.

Weather was sunny, humid and 85F. Track was Gingerman - not a track too hard on brakes, but not easy on them.

Main point: When you check pad material thickness, at a minimum, check at the portion to the top (most wear).

Second point: I would heavily caution running a track day (1 day/four 20-minute sessions) on pads with under 6mm of pad material left unless you understand how to be efficient with your braking and/or the track is not harsh on brakes. OR (unlikely) if you’re not going to run near at least 8/10ths... Furthermore, I would say to not risk running a track day starting with 5mm or under of pad material, period.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by artey34

If you were to swap pads at the track mid day, to identical pads, do you need to go through the burnish procedure? Or are you good to go back out on the track

Previously used pads: not at all. Brand new pads: yes, as you dont want to heat shock them, which could cause glazing. You could easily do it on an access road, or even on track (by braking for the first 6-8 corners lightly, then 2-3 corners hard, then park the car and let them cool down for a bit (30mins is good enough).