[My87z28]

Originally Posted by joehouse

Yeah, I can understand that, I think they will be coming out with a diffuser, I heard on one of the aftermarket sites they will be starting to make body kits for the car as well. oh no =( That sucks!!! Probably have to wear crazy sunglasses. It also sucks being so tall, almost no car is comfortable. My dads challenger and my trans am are basically the only cars I can even tolerate aside from an suv. If you change the exhaust does it mess with the 02 sensors?

Lucky no crazy sunglasses.

No, the O2 sensors are in the pipe just after the catalytic converters. About a foot father down the pipe are a pair of resonators. I'll have the resonators back replaced.

[joehouse]

OH haha, I'm so used to only one 02 in my trans am. I know the newer cars have 4 or more. What brand of exhaust do you usually get ?

[My87z28]

Originally Posted by joehouse

OH haha, I'm so used to only one 02 in my trans am. I know the newer cars have 4 or more. What brand of exhaust do you usually get ?

I don't care for the pre fabed exhaust kits. They cost crazy money! On my GMC 2500HD I have 3" duals (factory cats). flowmaster 10's into 4.5" tips. On my 87 z28 (w/383) I have hooker super comp headers, 3" duals, no cats, dyno max 12" bullet mufflers, dumbed just over the axle. When my 16 1ss camaro comes in I think that I'll have them cut out the resonators, do 2.75" dual with a custom X crossover, then I think I'll likely do flowmaster 10's into 4" tips. The shop that I have do all my exhaust does cat back duals with 3" tips for $390 (welded). I imagine the custom x crossover and the larger tip will cost me another $100.

[joehouse]

That's a really good deal, you have to post pictures when you do!

[BowtieV8]

Dear OP,

You are a fantastic human being. This is amazing. Thank you for existing. Don't change.

Sincerely,
Bowtie

[vaib]

having problems getting numbers over phone or email. Dealers want me to come in and dont give any info over phone. What to do?

[laborsmith]

Try calling Becky. Her number is in her sig. Give her chance to return your call as we forum members tend to keep her busy tracing our own orders.

Laborsmith

[My87z28]

Originally Posted by vaib

having problems getting numbers over phone or email. Dealers want me to come in and dont give any info over phone. What to do?

Yup, just as I mentioned they know that their techniques don't work nearly as well if you aren't there in person. Honestly that's the whole point of the email communication. If you have emailed them that you will not be coming in at first, but that you will grade the dealerships based on your email communications and then visit those you had the best experience with, and they still don't talk numbers with you, THEN STEER CLEAR of those dealerships.

I had to do the exact same thing. As I had mentioned, I originally emailed about 15 dealerships. I only heard back from around 8-9 of them. One of which a friend of mine was the salesman, even he didn't want to talk numbers with me, and once he did, he lied about the invoice price.

For one of the dealers (most local) I had no response, yet I've bought multiple vehicles from them and worked as a mechanic for them from '99-'05 (joined the Navy in '05). I really wanted to give them a chance as they have an amazing reputation. I did visit them in person, spoke with a salesman and sales manager about what I wanted, however they were made aware that I was not buying that day and that I would be back in touch with them via email. This ended up being the dealer I ordered the car from as they were completely transparent and honest about everything.

[Kainzo]

Originally Posted by My87z28

I figured since my last post about "the dealer accepted my offer" got a fair bit of traffic after I posted some of the specific numbers when it comes to these camaros, that I'd make a new post on tips and tricks to getting the best deal you can for your new Camaro.


First tip: do not step foot into the dealership first.

Do a search of Chevrolet dealerships within 50-100miles of where you live. Email 10-15 about the exact Camaro you are looking for, and ask them for their best "out the door price".

Find out what the exact dealer invoice price of the car you are looking for is. KBB, NADA, TrueCar should be able to give you this information. I've checked and what they have listed as the dealer invoice price is actually correct as per the GM WorkOrderBench.

Next find out exactly what your state's fees are for tags; these cars are roughly 3600lbs, your state may have different tag fees based on weight. Maryland does, and car above 3700lbs is $187.00, any car under 3700lbs is $135.00. Also find out how much registration, title, and lien papers cost. Believe it or not, dealers will lie to you about this and overcharge you and pocket the rest.

If you let the dealerships know that you have contacted multiple dealerships, at least one of them is bound to offer you the car at dealer invoice. Make sure the dealers list each of these prices separately; car price, dealer processing, taxes (taxes are the sum of the cost of the car + dealer processing x state tax), and tags & title, then the out the door cost. This is to make sure everything is as transparent as possible. Also make sure you ask the dealer about IMR & LMA (advertising) fees. They like to not mention this until you are already in the finance office, by that time you've had so many numbers through at you that you never really second guess it (this is a huge dealer tactic).

Dealer Invoice on the '16 Camaro will be almost exactly 96% of the MSRP price.

Never mention a trade in vehicle, if asked about it say "I'm undecided at this time".

if no dealer has offered you the dealer invoice price then let them know that you know how much it is and that is why you want to pay (don't actually list the dealer invoice price). Inevitably multiple dealers will give you some BS number which they will say is the dealer invoice, you will now know that these salesmen are not very trustworthy. Hopefully some actually give you the true price, if they don't, then you can list the dealer invoice price. You will now loose email contact with a few of the dealerships, as they don't like informed buyers. If any give you the song and dance about "we have to make some money, we're a business after all", then you mention the HOLDBACK. The holdback is money that is "held back by the manufacturer, just to later pay it to the dealership. Chevrolet has a 3% holdback on every single car. The 3% is of the MSRP price. So if the car has a MSRP of $38,500, the holdback is $1155.00 ($38,500 x 0.03). Monthly or quarterly Chevrolet will cut the dealer a check for the holdback on every single Chevrolet vehicle they sold during that time period. You can also mention the dealer processing fee, which in Maryland is capped at $300.00. This is pure profit for the dealership. So even if you were to pay the dealer invoice price on this $38,500.00 MSRP car, the dealership will still profit the holdback: $1155.00 + dealer processing: $300.00 for a total of $1455.00. Also be sure that none of their prices includes ANY incentives or rebates as they may not be available when you actually purchase the car or that you may not actually be eligible for them when you purchase the car. This is another one of their tactics. This is why Autotrader has so many cars listed for such awesome prices, the dealer has added in ever rebate and incentive under the sun, even though you may not be eligible for all or any.


Based on your email communications you should be able to narrow the list of dealerships down to 2-3 dealerships. Now you should have 2-3 dealers offering you dealer invoice. Again make sure they list all the fees, and that they are all accurate with the information that you have already researched.

Now you may visit this 2-3 dealers, test drive a car, don't act too excited! Again be vague about any trade in if that's what you plan to do. DO NOT LET THEM RUN YOUR CREDIT. Get an in person feel for the salesmen and dealers that you have been speaking to through email. Don't let them know that you are not going to buy a car today, but say that you are going to either. Ask them to print off the GM WorkOrderBench for the car, if they won't, they likely shows their lack of transparency and lack of honesty. After getting all of the in person info you need, LEAVE!!! DO NOT BUY NOR ORDER A CAR!!!

**Also, never let any of the dealerships know the names of the other dealerships you are in contact with, it is possible that they will contact each other and team up against you. Always remember, these people are salesman and are not your friend. They do this for a living and are better at selling a car than you are at buying a car. That's why you do much of you communication through email. ***

You also need to research these dealers and their service departments.

Now that you have 2-3 dealers all offering you the exact same price for the exact same car. Email them that you've narrowed it down to a couple dealerships, with theirs being one of them. However, all of the dealerships are offering you the same price. Now find one other small ($100-300) option that you'd like to have on the car; such as floor mats, cargo mat, tint, etc. Let them know that you are willing to buy this week from the first dealer who offers you the already agreed upon price with the included option that you just picked out. When you get one to agree to this, you know have an electronic record of every part of the negotiations. Now go in and sign or order, which ever you are planning to do. By do exactly this, you have now cut into that holdback and dealer processing fee. Also, while finalizing ask about any rebates or incentive that are available, have them print them out for you.

By following these tips, you will get a better price than 99% of everyone else.


Good luck, I hope this helps you buy your new '16 Camaro.

Sorry for the necro, how does this change when buying a used car? I'm looking for a 2016-2018 2SS and see the price from 30-36k basically...