[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Bravo SIR... well done... your engine bay is looking fantastic! I also like your coolant tank, i may consider that next... I am also surprised to see the lake of oil under the lid... that would have me very upset... I cant imagine how the back of your intake valves look :(

Thanks SOCAL... !!! Thanks for all the positive comments from everyone above too! It does keep me motivated ! The only thing I can say to that is.... Thank goodness I don't have that many miles on her to the issue probably isn't as bad at the moment as it would be if say 5000+ miles. I have been surprised that my catch can doesn't seem to get a lot of fluid in it when I empty it. But now I see why. I think I will dump this can and a new same one or try a different one. So I'm not re-doing or un-doing. I will need one setup like mine is currently, 3 lines total.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

A quick update on the E2-X Catch Can issue. Elite Engineering support has went above and beyond answering my emails and even as late as now (9:00PM Eastern). They asked me to send some photos so they could determine if I had anything obviously wrong. Here is their response: "With pictures of all connections. It appears there is a routing issue that is allowing oil to back flow upstream of the throttle body from the factory clean side. And you will need the Venturi Valve for added vacuum generation at full throttle." As far as the PCV Valve goes, I'm sure I installed the one that came with the kit. But, I'll double check the one in my tool box to confirm it's the stock one with the bypass hole. As far as the Venturi valve goes, I have ZERO clue on that! I've asked for clarification, a link to one they know will work with this setup etc. but it seems important. I've seen a venturi value on exhaust systems, but not on an air intake!

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

A quick update on the E2-X Catch Can issue. Elite Engineering support has went above and beyond answering my emails and even as late as now (9:00PM Eastern). They asked me to send some photos so they could determine if I had anything obviously wrong. Here is their response: "With pictures of all connections. It appears there is a routing issue that is allowing oil to back flow upstream of the throttle body from the factory clean side. And you will need the Venturi Valve for added vacuum generation at full throttle." As far as the PCV Valve goes, I'm sure I installed the one that came with the kit. But, I'll double check the one in my tool box to confirm it's the stock one with the bypass hole. As far as the Venturi valve goes, I have ZERO clue on that! I've asked for clarification, a link to one they know will work with this setup etc. but it seems important. I've seen a venturi value on exhaust systems, but not on an air intake!

Your hose routing on the can is correct. Your pulling from the valley it looks like, your clean side is going into the intake vaccum and then you have the secondary going into the coupler on the TB. I would of put it by the elbow but really doesnt make a difference. As long as the check valves are working then i dont understand what elite is talking about. There isnt a way for oil to pool in the TB plate unless its pressurized under boost and the check valve want working and it was flowing backwards.


I do have one question though, on the factory oil separator on the left side you have it wide open, why isn't it capped off? Your letting in unmetered air into the crankcase.


Also, i've found that you should be using their restrictor or just make one yourself on the vacuum side. The cans are never meant to pull full vacuum, its very strong and could simply be sucking oil right through the can.


Elite sells a restrictor, its a simple 3/8 barb on one end and on other side it restricts it down to like 3/16 or so. You can put that on your clean side vaccum and it wont suck so much oil through the system.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by Camaro1973

Your hose routing on the can is correct. Your pulling from the valley it looks like, your clean side is going into the intake vaccum and then you have the secondary going into the coupler on the TB. I would of put it by the elbow but really doesnt make a difference. As long as the check valves are working then i dont understand what elite is talking about. There isnt a way for oil to pool in the TB plate unless its pressurized under boost and the check valve want working and it was flowing backwards.


I do have one question though, on the factory oil separator on the left side you have it wide open, why isn't it capped off? Your letting in unmetered air into the crankcase.


Also, i've found that you should be using their restrictor or just make one yourself on the vacuum side. The cans are never meant to pull full vacuum, its very strong and could simply be sucking oil right through the can.


Elite sells a restrictor, its a simple 3/8 barb on one end and on other side it restricts it down to like 3/16 or so. You can put that on your clean side vaccum and it wont suck so much oil through the system.

Thanks for the review, confirmation the hose runs are correct etc.! Maybe that restrictor you mention is what Elite is calling the Venturi Valve? Also, my check valve arrows are pointing away from the catch can. So I feel that's correct as well. The factory oil separator actually has a hose to it. Sorry but the photo above was taken during the installation process. I had removed it temporarily, as it was in the way when I lifted the supercharger up high enough to replace the PCV valve. This is how it is and has been once I completed the install:

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

Thanks for the review, confirmation the hose runs are correct etc.! Maybe that restrictor you mention is what Elite is calling the Venturi Valve? Also, my check valve arrows are pointing away from the catch can. So I feel that's correct as well. The factory oil separator actually has a hose to it. Sorry but the photo above was taken during the installation process. I had removed it temporarily, as it was in the way when I lifted the supercharger up high enough to replace the PCV valve. This is how it is and has been once I completed the install:

Ok Good. Elite wants you to use their “special” Venturi valve which helps create more vacuum in boost then just plumbing the fitting into your intake.

Honestly the more vacuum you have running through the can the more oil your going to have flying through the can.

Mighty Mouse cans have built in regulators in their cans, elite cans don’t.

The reducer I’m talking about goes on your vacuum side and simply reduces vacuum from the 3/8 size down to 3/16 or so.

3/8 line going into cans at full bore simply pulls to much vacuum.

Pull your dipstick out and put your finger over it and I bet the vacuum is strong (as long as you have no leaks)

Pcv systems are regulated and only allow small amounts of vacuum.

The more boost you make the worse it gets too.

I don’t care what elite says but there dual setup simply can’t keep up with the blow by from hi boost motors.

The secondary suction from the intake is more of a gimmick IMO.

[Camaro1973]

This is the restrictor.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Camaro1973 - Thanks for all the comments! I'm wondering now if I should just cap off the 2nd exit and not use it, then cap off the hose barb on the air intake? I might even consider getting a single outlet can vs a dual.

[radz28]

Thanks for your base file!

I saw your recent post about FF in my thread. What I did was find a FF file from another Gen V, and gradually changed it to top out to equal about 25* at WOT. I had it on good advice, because a 2650 won't hit as hard as a 1740 (at least in my combination), that I could ramp a fair amount of ADVANCE into the FF ADDER, earlier, but I kept it pretty conservative until I was past (what I thought was) MAX TORQUE (around 4500-5000, according to dyno graphs I could find).

So - I pretty much kept timing (HIGH and FF ADDER) to about 22* to about 4800 RPMs, and smoothed into 25* after about 5000 RPMs out to redline. I figured that because I wasn't getting knock on 91/octane booster at around 22* through those RPMs, that keeping that timing about the same for E85 would be pretty safe, and I wouldn't have to worry much about KNOCK.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by radz28

Thanks for your base file!

I saw your recent post about FF in my thread. What I did was find a FF file from another Gen V, and gradually changed it to top out to equal about 25* at WOT. I had it on good advice, because a 2650 won't hit as hard as a 1740 (at least in my combination), that I could ramp a fair amount of ADVANCE into the FF ADDER, earlier, but I kept it pretty conservative until I was past (what I thought was) MAX TORQUE (around 4500-5000, according to dyno graphs I could find).

So - I pretty much kept timing (HIGH and FF ADDER) to about 22* to about 4800 RPMs, and smoothed into 25* after about 5000 RPMs out to redline. I figured that because I wasn't getting knock on 91/octane booster at around 22* through those RPMs, that keeping that timing about the same for E85 would be pretty safe, and I wouldn't have to worry much about KNOCK.

Radz! Thanks!!! Yeah, I'm trying to find a base FlexFuel file for a gen 6. But not having much luck yet! Already being tuned and tweaked by Andrew at CSP, I'm obviously keeping what I have no, but was looking for the parameters that related to FF! Once I get that, or even just might do it straight away. I'll most likely get hold of Turner Ted at Jannetty and get a remote tune!

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

Camaro1973 - Thanks for all the comments! I'm wondering now if I should just cap off the 2nd exit and not use it, then cap off the hose barb on the air intake? I might even consider getting a single outlet can vs a dual.

The cans are exactly the same, only thing different is it has another barb for secondary. All you need is a plug for your current can.

You can leave the system as is, but find out where/why you have oil especially in the TB.

Double check those one way valves make sure they are working properly. I can see some oil making it past the can, but if your van isn’t filling up and you have oil in the TB plate then something isn’t working properly.

If me, honestly I would replace the can and get a Mighty Mouse just in case you have excessive blow by it’s got somewhere to vent to.

If your car is stock power you can get the mild can with an an8 fitting which connects to the valley or get the wild can and pull dirty side from a valve cover.

I’ve got 2 cans on my car, I’m venting both valve covers via 2x an 10 lines to a MM race can for boost ventilation and then I have a second can running in pcv mode catching oil off the valley then to the intake. Using MM new an8 diverter.

At 18-19psi and 1000+whp you need venting. Even when I was at 850whp I was leaking seals from my old elite can.

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

Radz! Thanks!!! Yeah, I'm trying to find a base FlexFuel file for a gen 6. But not having much luck yet! Already being tuned and tweaked by Andrew at CSP, I'm obviously keeping what I have no, but was looking for the parameters that related to FF! Once I get that, or even just might do it straight away. I'll most likely get hold of Turner Ted at Jannetty and get a remote tune!

FF tuning is a piece of cake, what exactly do you need?

You can PM me.

[Katech_Mike]

You need to log the PID for HPFP delivery angle. This will give you an idea of how far you are pushing the high side pump.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by Katech_Mike

You need to log the PID for HPFP delivery angle. This will give you an idea of how far you are pushing the high side pump.

Thanks Mike!!

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Quick update: Kind of re-did a bit of the install for the JMS device. Now its fully installed and all wiring is complete. I still need to configure voltage setting and then add some E and see where things go with the FF tune changes. A few JMS install decisions I made differently than the instructions show:

1) I used the JMS grey/black wires, the vacuum sensor wires that I ran up front as a +/- for a digital voltage meter. I mounted this up front under the edge of the dash using Velcro. This way I can always see the voltage my JMS is delivering. I don't need the grey/black wires from the JMS device since I'm not using the vacuum sensor, but using the pedal sensor. This worked out perfect and now I can keep an eye on the voltage at all times. If you do so make sure you get a digital voltage meter that has a least 2 decimals LEDs, I selected the one below since I need to read (2) decimal positions such as 17.34 and not 17.3. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



2) I took apart the wiring under the car, and used waterproof heat shrink self soldering wire connectors to make a much nicer secure and waterproof splice. A link to a video on these is below.

I didn't take many photos last night as I was already under the car and my phone in the house. I'll get a few after photos!