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Old 09-22-2022, 05:19 AM   #15
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Seriously

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Originally Posted by ATl_1LE View Post
Wait wut? not sure if serious
Oh he’s serious it’s Zach’s profession!!!
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Old 09-22-2022, 05:22 AM   #16
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Old 09-22-2022, 06:39 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by ATl_1LE View Post
Wait wut? not sure if serious
I expect he's serious. At 29k / 20 track days, you would definitely be pushing your luck with anything but the very mildest aftermarket valvetrain. Verifying the seat pressure would definitely be a good idea, even with the stock hardware
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Old 09-22-2022, 10:05 AM   #18
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For the wheel bearings, you just replace the hub assembly?


I'll check mine tomorrow. That is one check I haven't been doing.
Yes the replacement rear hub assembly was under $90 ordered online for pickup from a local dealership. Apparently the fronts are pretty straightforward to change but the rear was a pain the way I did it by removing the suspension arms. I believe you should jack up the corner the correct amount to simulate normal ride height with the wheel off of the car for the final torque when reinstalling the suspension arms using this method in order to correctly preload the bushings. I will probably try to rent/buy this tool to try to avoid removing the rear suspension arms if I have do do another rear hub replacement in the future: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...4#post11077224

For the rears you are also supposed to replace the axle nut and blue washer. I'm not sure if you can replace the blue washer using the method involving the tool above but I imagine it doesn't matter since my old one didn't look particularly worn/damaged. The shop manual says to reuse the 3 hub bolts with red locktite.

You are also supposed to clean and grease the hub bore on the rear before installing the new hub. I used a bit of this WD-40 - 30039 Specialist High-Temp Grease from Amazon that seemed to be a close match for the properties of the GM grease: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071QZN6X5

Last edited by cdrptrks; 09-22-2022 at 10:17 AM.
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Old 09-22-2022, 12:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdrptrks View Post
Yes the replacement rear hub assembly was under $90 ordered online for pickup from a local dealership. Apparently the fronts are pretty straightforward to change but the rear was a pain the way I did it by removing the suspension arms. I believe you should jack up the corner the correct amount to simulate normal ride height with the wheel off of the car for the final torque when reinstalling the suspension arms using this method in order to correctly preload the bushings. I will probably try to rent/buy this tool to try to avoid removing the rear suspension arms if I have do do another rear hub replacement in the future: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...4#post11077224

For the rears you are also supposed to replace the axle nut and blue washer. I'm not sure if you can replace the blue washer using the method involving the tool above but I imagine it doesn't matter since my old one didn't look particularly worn/damaged. The shop manual says to reuse the 3 hub bolts with red locktite.

You are also supposed to clean and grease the hub bore on the rear before installing the new hub. I used a bit of this WD-40 - 30039 Specialist High-Temp Grease from Amazon that seemed to be a close match for the properties of the GM grease: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071QZN6X5

Thanks for all that. And 'ouch' the tool for rear hubs is $200.
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Old 09-22-2022, 12:57 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by L78toLT1 View Post
I expect he's serious. At 29k / 20 track days, you would definitely be pushing your luck with anything but the very mildest aftermarket valvetrain. Verifying the seat pressure would definitely be a good idea, even with the stock hardware
And here i am thinking staying stock powertrain would keep me from having to worry about those kinds of things. Thought valves was a gt350 issue.

Second i start looking at springs i know the aftermarket slippery slope will begin knowing me but might be a good thing.


thx guys, adding to the list of things to look at
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Old 09-22-2022, 01:02 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Christian1LE View Post
I thought transmission was every like 15 track hours, and ediff was every 24 track hours.
This is similar to my experience with other cars and why i was asking. Sounds like its just preventative vs required doing it earlier
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Old 09-22-2022, 01:42 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL View Post
Thanks for all that. And 'ouch' the tool for rear hubs is $200.
You're welcome. Hopefully you can rent one cheap or free from a local auto parts store. I borrowed the one that happened to be in stock at the time but it looked different and I couldn't figure out a way to use it on the Camaro. I think it was not compatible but it could have just been my lack of experience with doing this type of job previously plus it didn't come with any instructions.
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Old 09-22-2022, 09:19 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by ATl_1LE View Post
And here i am thinking staying stock powertrain would keep me from having to worry about those kinds of things. Thought valves was a gt350 issue.

Second i start looking at springs i know the aftermarket slippery slope will begin knowing me but might be a good thing.


thx guys, adding to the list of things to look at

You don't have to worry about springs with a stock motor.
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