[Hyper1SS]

I used F19 (front vent seat) in the fuse box in the trunk for my switched 12v source. Not sure what the is since I have cloth seats.

[Hyper1SS]

Here is my setup all installed using the Sub by Thumps plug-n-play wire harness. I use the factory ground locations for the AudioControl and Kicker amp. I ran the power to both at the battery. Everything sounds clean and the amp is receiving a clean signal from the AudioControl unit. I used the front speaker signal to get a full range signal to not choke the bass. I might end up installing some 200hz bass blockers to the door speakers to let the sub do all of the bass work.

[wal-dog]

Looks great Hyper1SS! Curious why you didn't go ahead and put in a 5 channel amp with a higher model AudioControl. Then you could have an aftermarket amp push your speakers instead of the factory amp.

[Hyper1SS]

Originally Posted by wal-dog

Looks great Hyper1SS! Curious why you didn't go ahead and put in a 5 channel amp with a higher model AudioControl. Then you could have an aftermarket amp push your speakers instead of the factory amp.

I am happy with the factory setup just wanted to add a little more bass. Back in the day I would have but not in to loud crazy music anymore. I don't have my gains turned up much and now I got what I wanted.

[wal-dog]

Originally Posted by Hyper1SS

I am happy with the factory setup just wanted to add a little more bass. Back in the day I would have but not in to loud crazy music anymore. I don't have my gains turned up much and now I got what I wanted.

Nice install. Did you pull that styrofoam piece out and put a board there to mount to? What it holding up the floor of the trunk?

[Hyper1SS]

Originally Posted by wal-dog

Nice install. Did you pull that styrofoam piece out and put a board there to mount to? What it holding up the floor of the trunk?

Thanks. Yes I removed it. I made a amp rack out of MDF board and drilled holes to use the factory mounting locations that held the styrofoam down. The truck carpet side liners have a lip on them that hold the trunk piece up.

[Darth Martel]

Nice, clean install. Good job man. Glad you're happy with everything. I think you'll like the high-pass filters if you use them. The bass information that goes to the fronts is just wasted and ends up hurting the sound coming from the fronts.

[RobsCountach]

I swapped out my rear panels and didn't notice much difference; Keep your money on these. Its either the signal back there is VERY compressed OR that those holes are so small. Still sounds like its in a barrel with no lows and little highs. Mmmph. Yes, I matched ohms and wired them (+ & -) correctly. My Tahoe is the same; The amp/crossover is the issue.

Oh, that white fabric... is surely NOT an air-bag. There's no connector, nor is there an inflator cartridge. If wrong, be interested in how that works...



Oh, if anyone has changed out the Dash speakers, which are NOT 3.5" folks.... More like 2". Can you tell me the rating on the capacitor. Am curious the range they're setup for. Its a little big for 'just' a tweeter.
Stocks are 'hashy'; like walking in gravel... LOL.

[RobsCountach]

Exhaust note only plays into system on the Bose setup...

Originally Posted by ImperialSScamaro

awesome I'm going to unplug it now! THANKS

[burnningice]

If you add a sub to any of our factory systems. Bose or Non Bose, you need to cut the wire that leads to the ANC mics or you'll have issues.

HyperBlue: do you have a fuse on your amp? I see that you tapped into the factory 200 amp fuse but I'd suggest that you use your own fuse for the amp.

[Hyper1SS]

Originally Posted by burnningice

If you add a sub to any of our factory systems. Bose or Non Bose, you need to cut the wire that leads to the ANC mics or you'll have issues.

HyperBlue: do you have a fuse on your amp? I see that you tapped into the factory 200 amp fuse but I'd suggest that you use your own fuse for the amp.

Yes I do. I used a Kicker blade fuse block with a 80 amp fuse like Kicker suggested with 4 gauge wire. Where did you run your power wire to? Also did you use one fuse block on both amps or one for each amp?

[RobsCountach]

Is this taking the stock amp, out of the signal. Splice out before, Splice back to speakers ?

Also, does not utilizing Pins 1 - 4, remove the bass (low level signal) ?



I cut the following wires. The ends coming from the harness will go to the LC7i and the other ends will go to the Kenwood amp and power the speakers. If you look at the diagram of the harness you can see how they numbered the pins.
I used the front speakers to connect to "Main Input" on the LC7i
Pin 5 BU Left Front+
Pin 6 YE Right Front+
Pin 13 BN/BU Left Front-
Pin 14 YE/BK Right Front-

I used the rear speakers to connect to Channel 2 on the LC7i
Pin 7 GN Left REAR+
Pin 8 WH Right Rear+
Pin 15 GN/BK Left Rear-
Pin 16 BU/BK Right Rear-


Next I connected all the speaker wires from the harness to the LC7i, 3 sets of RCAs and the remote turn on wire to the remote out terminal. The LC7i automatically turns on when it gets a signal from the Main Input. The Remote Out wire will turn on the Kenwood. It was a tight fit but I was able to use the round screw on bolts that hold down the styrofoam part to also hold the LC7i in place.


Next I ran the power and ground wire. I also powered the LC7i by connecting it to the battery.


Then I connected the other end of the speaker wires (the ones I cut) to the after market amp. These are going to the speakers. Connected the RCA's, Power and ground and the remote turn on wire to the Kenwood. Put the trunk back together.


Overall I am very impressed how much it is improved. The factory speakers are really brought to life and the JL Audio 10W6 sounds great.[/QUOTE]

[RobsCountach]

Is this taking the stock amp, out of the signal. Splice out before, Splice back to speakers ? Looking which wire, of the plug, is signal in and which is speaker out ?

Also, does not utilizing Pins 1 - 4 & 9 - 12, remove the bass (low level signal) ?

I have a 1LT. Might not even be same colors, but do have Amp in trunck.

Originally Posted by wal-dog

I wanted to use my 5 channel Kenwood Excelon amp to power the fronts and the rears plus add a sub. From what I understand about the system, the My Link unit sends a digital signal to the factory amp and the factory amp converts the signal to analog and to the speakers. This means you have to keep the factory amp. I purchased an AudioControl LC7i Line Converter. The LC7i Takes the signals from the speakers and converts them to usable RCA connections. Here's my install:

First thanks to users Darth Martel and Chris227 who provided these diagrams of the wires. I hope they don't mind me reposting them. Darth Martel's thread really helped me.
http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=452618






I cut the following wires. The ends coming from the harness will go to the LC7i and the other ends will go to the Kenwood amp and power the speakers. If you look at the diagram of the harness you can see how they numbered the pins.
I used the front speakers to connect to "Main Input" on the LC7i
Pin 5 BU Left Front+
Pin 6 YE Right Front+
Pin 13 BN/BU Left Front-
Pin 14 YE/BK Right Front-

I used the rear speakers to connect to Channel 2 on the LC7i
Pin 7 GN Left REAR+
Pin 8 WH Right Rear+
Pin 15 GN/BK Left Rear-
Pin 16 BU/BK Right Rear-


Next I connected all the speaker wires from the harness to the LC7i, 3 sets of RCAs and the remote turn on wire to the remote out terminal. The LC7i automatically turns on when it gets a signal from the Main Input. The Remote Out wire will turn on the Kenwood. It was a tight fit but I was able to use the round screw on bolts that hold down the styrofoam part to also hold the LC7i in place.


Next I ran the power and ground wire. I also powered the LC7i by connecting it to the battery.


Then I connected the other end of the speaker wires (the ones I cut) to the after market amp. These are going to the speakers. Connected the RCA's, Power and ground and the remote turn on wire to the Kenwood. Put the trunk back together.


Overall I am very impressed how much it is improved. The factory speakers are really brought to life and the JL Audio 10W6 sounds great.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by RobsCountach

Oh, if anyone has changed out the Dash speakers, which are NOT 3.5" folks.... More like 2". Can you tell me the rating on the capacitor?

Is there an actual capacitor in line with this speaker? I would think all the crossovers would be done digitally, even in the non-Bose amps.