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Old 08-22-2017, 07:35 AM   #127
17LGX
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackClub View Post
It would be really nice if a vendor, or GM provided some comments relative to the separator in our cars to answer the OP and other folks that have asked the same question in this thead. After all, this is one of the differences between a Vette LT1 and a Camaro LT1 and I know for a fact the Camaro engineering team was quite proud of this solution.

PS NOT discounting any vendor's solutions here BTW so pls don't confuse the two subjects.

This point of view is missing on all Forums.
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Old 08-22-2017, 10:16 AM   #128
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Originally Posted by JBones81 View Post
I was going to order one for the new 1LE but someone was telling me that the 1LE's come with something already on them that basically functions as one. I can't find any info about this, though. What's the deal?

The GM factory cleanside separator (CSS) is a pretty good functioning unit. Probably the best to date anyway.

For this reason our cleanside separator (CSS) is NOT required unless your running the car hard. It returns the trapped oil to the crankcase which is safe on the cleanside only. The foul/dirty side is where all of the damaging compounds are part of the vapors and those can NEVER be returned to the crankcase.

So, GM has addressed the point of entry that contributes the least to the intake valve coking and other issues, but they are making progress. It is impossible to deal with the foul/dirty side of the PCV without an external separation device, and those all need to be emptied at least every 5k miles with a large enough one. GM nor any other automaker will make a change that the average "soccer Mom" owner has to do this.

On the LGX 3.6V6 GM has DELETED the positive function of the PCV system in an effort to slow down coking, which it has helped some, but in trade leaves the contaminants to accumulate in the crankcase now greatly increasing internal wear and shortening engine life. A trade off they figure will get the owners past the warranty period before there are noticeable serious issues. NOT a good trade off IMHO.

Here are LGX valves at 13k miles:



As you can see, the deposits are not as pronounced on the valve itself as the LGX and LLT with similar miles, but the deposits are on the stem where they are drawn into the softer guide wearing them out. Look close and see how hard and baked light colored these are from the increased heat.

I hope this helps!

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Old 08-22-2017, 02:43 PM   #129
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Great stuff.
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Old 08-22-2017, 04:17 PM   #130
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Thx for posting the info Elite!
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Old 08-23-2017, 10:27 AM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elite Engineering View Post
The GM factory cleanside separator (CSS) is a pretty good functioning unit. Probably the best to date anyway.

For this reason our cleanside separator (CSS) is NOT required unless your running the car hard. It returns the trapped oil to the crankcase which is safe on the cleanside only. The foul/dirty side is where all of the damaging compounds are part of the vapors and those can NEVER be returned to the crankcase.

So, GM has addressed the point of entry that contributes the least to the intake valve coking and other issues, but they are making progress. It is impossible to deal with the foul/dirty side of the PCV without an external separation device, and those all need to be emptied at least every 5k miles with a large enough one. GM nor any other automaker will make a change that the average "soccer Mom" owner has to do this.

On the LGX 3.6V6 GM has DELETED the positive function of the PCV system in an effort to slow down coking, which it has helped some, but in trade leaves the contaminants to accumulate in the crankcase now greatly increasing internal wear and shortening engine life. A trade off they figure will get the owners past the warranty period before there are noticeable serious issues. NOT a good trade off IMHO.

Here are LGX valves at 13k miles:



As you can see, the deposits are not as pronounced on the valve itself as the LGX and LLT with similar miles, but the deposits are on the stem where they are drawn into the softer guide wearing them out. Look close and see how hard and baked light colored these are from the increased heat.

I hope this helps!

Thanks for the additional detail about the LGX.

Have you determined exactly how GM is managing the foul side of the PCV system without an externally accessible connection to the vacuum of the IM?

Isn't there an EPA or CARB requirement for Positive Crankcase Ventilation? If they are drawing in fresh air on the Clean Side, there must be vacuum on the foul side to create that flow.
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Old 10-22-2017, 11:42 PM   #132
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The following from GM Authority is just enough to make one wonder exactly how the PCV system works:

Quote:
Originally Posted by http://gmauthority.com
Two-stage PCV system: this revolutionary system maintains low oil consumption, featuring a pre-separator between the block and the engine’s rear cover and a high-efficiency separator in the center of the block’s “V”.
The entire article is at this address: http://gmauthority.com/blog/gm/gm-engines/lgx/

That description along with availability of a PCV valve for the LGX, part number 12666420, seems to imply the IM is drawing foul side air from the center of the V that is not readily seen.

Does anyone know where this PCV valve is located?
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Old 04-24-2018, 07:51 PM   #133
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Catch Can oil color

Just emptied mine after the Winter. Looks like coffee with cream. Last Fall the oil was dark at about 4000 miles of use.

Just did some research and found out that the coffee with cream color is not unusual after Winter accumulation. Also, color mat vary depending on the brand/type of catch can.

Relieved to found out this is normal and not a problem like a blown head gasket which I figured was not the problem since my coolant level was normal.

Told the color change was due, at least in part, by the can catching some condensation
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Old 04-25-2018, 02:23 PM   #134
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Originally Posted by Raybreiding View Post
Just emptied mine after the Winter. Looks like coffee with cream. Last Fall the oil was dark at about 4000 miles of use.

Just did some research and found out that the coffee with cream color is not unusual after Winter accumulation. Also, color mat vary depending on the brand/type of catch can.

Relieved to found out this is normal and not a problem like a blown head gasket which I figured was not the problem since my coolant level was normal.

Told the color change was due, at least in part, by the can catching some condensation

A proper system (very few on the market, and the Elite E2 and E2-X have no competitors that do a more effective job) catches far more than oil. In fact, oil is a very small percentage of what is caught. Without going into real deep analysis, here is the average makeup of what is trapped in the E2-X after a 2450 miles trip and drain when spun in a centrifuge and then analyzed. 70% of the contents are acidic water (water and sulfuric acid are both produced /released during the combustion process and need to be removed/evacuated from the crankcase before settling and contaminating the oil), 23% was unburnt fuel (raw fuel reduces viscosity and the oils ability to protect). and 7% was oil filled with abrasive particulate matter (carbon, soot, ash, etc.) so as very little true accurate information is available on any of this, oil is what most assume is being caught, so the decreased wear extends engine life. The removal of oil mist reduces detonation and allows less carbon build-up and for the engine to run more timing advance and make more power, etc.
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Old 04-25-2018, 03:45 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 17LGX View Post
The following from GM Authority is just enough to make one wonder exactly how the PCV system works:



The entire article is at this address: http://gmauthority.com/blog/gm/gm-engines/lgx/

That description along with availability of a PCV valve for the LGX, part number 12666420, seems to imply the IM is drawing foul side air from the center of the V that is not readily seen.

Does anyone know where this PCV valve is located?
that particular "pcv valve" is located at the front of the engine on the clean side area... it connects to the passenger side of the intake on the arm and then to the tops of both cylinder head tops.


the dirty side of the PCV valve is actually coming from the rear with a long clip on style connector and then attaches to the intake tube on the driver side via this rubber grommet gimmick. there's not actual check valve inside the dirty side PCV hose itself, but there is a valve inside the back of the block.
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Old 05-02-2018, 08:12 PM   #136
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Elite, would it be to much to ask of you to do a detailed installation guide? I would love to get one of you catch cans. But everything is so vague as to what I need. Then after reading this whole thread. I am confused by not only which system to get but also where and how to install it.

I feel like I am not the only one having the same delema.
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Old 05-03-2018, 08:15 AM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullet3z View Post
Elite, would it be to much to ask of you to do a detailed installation guide? I would love to get one of you catch cans. But everything is so vague as to what I need. Then after reading this whole thread. I am confused by not only which system to get but also where and how to install it.

I feel like I am not the only one having the same delema.

No you are not alone. There website is confusing and install is just the same. So I bought a Mishimoto. Easy to install and it comes with a nice bracket. Just replace the crappy plastic barbs with brass ones. Take the barbs to the store and match them up.
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Old 05-03-2018, 12:09 PM   #138
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I was going to do just the dirty side since the factory improved the clean side already, and I don't WOT a whole lot.
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