[Drsagacity]

For the original question on this thread, what are the options?

Cunningham
Vengeance

Anyone else?

[parish8]

https://gwatneyperformance.com/produ...#configuration

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by parish8

Not a motor guy. What I was told is you don’t need to but we would. That was Cunningham. It did have some light golden colored glazing, the quick hone cleaned that off.

Good input! Well, I had a phone con. with Aaron Salisbury of Gwatney Performance (GPI) yesterday and he said that if the engine is kept well / low millage and the OE Stock cross-hatch is still visible when looking at the cylinder walls, then the only thing required is a very thorough cleaning, while still maintaining the stock cross hatch and at the same achieving a good usable surface ready for the new rings.
This is also a good practice to avoid the creation of debris during the honing process.

[Drsagacity]

The more I am thinking about this, the more sense it makes.

1. Drop in rods and pistons (no need to pull motor on new motor).
2. Upgrade fuel system
3. Up boost

It would be easy to run 650rwhp with just the blower and no cam...

[L78toLT1]

Not sure on the hone/no hone question but, unless the lt1 is somehow different than the literally dozens of late model (low tension ring) motors I have been inside of over the years, the cross hatch pattern is still going to be plenty visible up to and probably well beyond 50k miles.

[parish8]

Originally Posted by Drsagacity

The more I am thinking about this, the more sense it makes.

1. Drop in rods and pistons (no need to pull motor on new motor).
2. Upgrade fuel system
3. Up boost

It would be easy to run 650rwhp with just the blower and no cam...

If 650hp is your goal I would just risk it or file the stock rings.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by parish8

If 650hp is your goal I would just risk it or file the stock rings.

On the dyno, we saw the hpfp dropping pressure above 550rwhp, so we dialed it back. I assume that in the 1:1 ratio, I would really be putting down 575rwhp or so. That matches exactly with what Ted has explained on this forum that 575rwhp is the max for the LT1 fuel system.

I have been down that path before, “risking it” and it’s no fun. I would rather take my time and do it right.

Because of taking my time, 650, 750, 850rwhp...it will all be the same because the engine will be built to support it. Going forged now using drop in pistons, rods, rings...makes the platform right for worry free fun.

[laynlo15]

GPI has a really good looking setup. Since your pulling the heads I would want to do some porting to improve the flow and port the super charger to match. That's the time to do headers if you like also although the stock manifolds flow pretty dam good.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

GPI has a really good looking setup. Since your pulling the heads I would want to do some porting to improve the flow and port the super charger to match. That's the time to do headers if you like also although the stock manifolds flow pretty dam good.

I agree, but I don’t want to ask the wife if I can spend more money on the car right now. I could buy one of the piston sets and probably get that done under the radar’ish.

[laynlo15]

Ha. You've been operating under the radar. Just drive it for now and have some fun. Stay away from the Forged section until you've been to some kinda induction rehab. What will you tell her when your dropping the car off here again.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Ha. You've been operating under the radar. Just drive it for now and have some fun. Stay away from the Forged section until you've been to some kinda induction rehab. What will you tell her when your dropping the car off here again.

I will just say we had a couple cool things to add: new engine covers, blacked out bowties, and exhaust cutouts...oh yeah and some spark plugs or something.

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

Not sure on the hone/no hone question but, unless the lt1 is somehow different than the literally dozens of late model (low tension ring) motors I have been inside of over the years, the cross hatch pattern is still going to be plenty visible up to and probably well beyond 50k miles.

So it seems that you are seeing what Aaron at GPI sees daily in these engines as well.
His only advice was to clean thoroughly, dry properly and then install the forged pieces, gap the rings correctly. Job done!
...and if the stock bearings are in good shape (which they are expected to be, if engine is kept well - I.E. frequent oil changes, Etc.), then re-use them. No need to buy new Clevites (which they offer as an option as well)

[Eldi Z]

Originally Posted by Drsagacity

On the dyno, we saw the hpfp dropping pressure above 550rwhp, so we dialed it back. I assume that in the 1:1 ratio, I would really be putting down 575rwhp or so. That matches exactly with what Ted has explained on this forum that 575rwhp is the max for the LT1 fuel system.

I have been down that path before, “risking it” and it’s no fun. I would rather take my time and do it right.

Because of taking my time, 650, 750, 850rwhp...it will all be the same because the engine will be built to support it. Going forged now using drop in pistons, rods, rings...makes the platform right for worry free fun.

Correct statements in my book
Would also add LT4 Injectors and HPFP for perfection (If non-1LE, then the ZL1 in-tank FP as well)

[DenverTaco07]

I'm considering the CMS piston/ rod kit. I'm in Colorado so finding a shop to do it correctly is my concern...i dont have the time or means to do it myself, but would love to have CMS do it, since they have done it.

i'm considering it so i can have peace of mind running my current blower as well as it gives me opportunity to add a little more with knowing i have a solid bottom end, not looking to run 8's or even 9's.