[wwiiavfan]

You might want to consider your long term build goals. If you are considering supercharging in the future, this might be a good time to spend the money on forged internals. Just a thought.

[JCunningham]

you need a thread chaser or you could crack the block torquing the bolts down. M12 x 1.75 https://arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-de...?RecordID=3804 then use long q tips https://www.amazon.com/Cotton-Applic.../dp/B00JG1RLPQ and acetone. and thread depth is 2.28" i use the razor blade backwards as in the blade is pointing in the opposite direction as im moving it. that way it cant dig into the solf aluminum. yes use top quality blades. the surfaces have to be clean. for that scratch id be pulling the motor and taking it to a machine shop. rings have broken on stock motors.

[cmitchell17]

Originally Posted by JCunningham

you need a thread chaser or you could crack the block torquing the bolts down. M12 x 1.75 https://arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-de...?RecordID=3804 then use long q tips https://www.amazon.com/Cotton-Applic.../dp/B00JG1RLPQ and acetone. and thread depth is 2.28" i use the razor blade backwards as in the blade is pointing in the opposite direction as im moving it. that way it cant dig into the solf aluminum. yes use top quality blades. the surfaces have to be clean. for that scratch id be pulling the motor and taking it to a machine shop. rings have broken on stock motors.

Thanks for the info, could I use a M12x1.75 tap? or does it have to be a chaser, it looks like one just might be a bottoming tap with a flat end, but ARP wants almost $50 dollars for the "chaser"

[JCunningham]

no you want a chaser. just do a search for arp 912-0008. you will find it cheaper. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...hoC5qsQAvD_BwE

[L78toLT1]

A crude but fairly effective test can be done by pouring the same volume of solvent into the suspect cylinder and a couple more "good" ones. If the land or ring is broken, the fluid will leak down much quicker in the bad hole. I used that method successfully on several DD, beater cars when working at my cousin's garage back in the day.

[cmitchell17]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

A crude but fairly effective test can be done by pouring the same volume of solvent into the suspect cylinder and a couple more "good" ones. If the land or ring is broken, the fluid will leak down much quicker in the bad hole. I used that method successfully on several DD, beater cars when working at my cousin's garage back in the day.

Ok thanks, I will have to try. Did you use alcohol?

The service manual dosent say to use anything on the head bolt threads, it actually dosent say anything about cleaning the block and head surface for the re-installing the head either haha

Also, when I took off my fuel lines I took off everything in one piece including the pump. I did this to avoid having to unscrew the one time use fuel fittings in the middle. However, I read after that you are supposed to loosen the fuel pump bolts just a little on each side. The injectors tips also scrapped a little on the heads when I was pulling the whole assembly out. Has anyone ever had their pump mess up or injectors mess up from not pulling it the way you are supposed to?

[95 imp]

Like King said... the surfaces need to be C-L-E-A-N... As in "eat off it clean".

Wipe it down with acetone and change sections of the rag to get the oil, etc. off when it is scraped clean.

There are a lot of things the manual won't spell out, but need to be done if you want it to live trouble free.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by cmitchell17

Ok thanks, I will have to try. Did you use alcohol?

The service manual dosent say to use anything on the head bolt threads, it actually dosent say anything about cleaning the block and head surface for the re-installing the head either haha

Also, when I took off my fuel lines I took off everything in one piece including the pump. I did this to avoid having to unscrew the one time use fuel fittings in the middle. However, I read after that you are supposed to loosen the fuel pump bolts just a little on each side. The injectors tips also scrapped a little on the heads when I was pulling the whole assembly out. Has anyone ever had their pump mess up or injectors mess up from not pulling it the way you are supposed to?

Agreed with others that you will want to chase the threads by either purchasing a chase tap or using a old bolt(grinding a section of the threads off the old bolt length wise). Also you MUST get ALL coolant out of the bolt holes. Compressed air along with threading paper towels down the holes works. It's tedious and takes time but you don't want to crack the block when torquing the bolt's. The is plenty of youtube vids on doing this with LS engines and most LS stuff applies to LT.

[6spdhyperblue]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Agreed with others that you will want to chase the threads by either purchasing a chase tap or using a old bolt(grinding a section of the threads off the old bolt length wise). Also you MUST get ALL coolant out of the bolt holes. Compressed air along with threading paper towels down the holes works. It's tedious and takes time but you don't want to crack the block when torquing the bolt's. The is plenty of youtube vids on doing this with LS engines and most LS stuff applies to LT.

This x100. Cant stress enough how the threads need to be clean and dry. You thought taking them out sucked, send those bolts down dirty threads is the worst feeling.

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by cmitchell17

Ok thanks, I will have to try. Did you use alcohol?

The service manual dosent say to use anything on the head bolt threads, it actually dosent say anything about cleaning the block and head surface for the re-installing the head either haha

Also, when I took off my fuel lines I took off everything in one piece including the pump. I did this to avoid having to unscrew the one time use fuel fittings in the middle. However, I read after that you are supposed to loosen the fuel pump bolts just a little on each side. The injectors tips also scrapped a little on the heads when I was pulling the whole assembly out. Has anyone ever had their pump mess up or injectors mess up from not pulling it the way you are supposed to?

I used to use mineral spirits, but alcohol should be fine.

[cmitchell17]

I am assuming the new stock head bolts (or which ever ones TSP provides) will come with some type of locking compound on the threads. I'm also assuming you are supposed to lubricate (using oil or maybe WD-40) under the flange on the bolt in order to achieve the correct torque spec? I don't see this listed but I know the torque value is highly dependent on the friction on both the threads and the flange/washer surface.

Thanks again for everyone's help

[JCunningham]

the stock head bolts will have thread locker on them. they go in dry. do not oil them.

[cmitchell17]

Originally Posted by JCunningham

the stock head bolts will have thread locker on them. they go in dry. do not oil them.

Thanks, and sorry for all the questions but I would assume you are supposed to do step 3 and 4 at the same time meaning you tighten the hex head bolt then tighten all the other ones, then torque the hex along with the others. The way the steps are it would seem you would tighten and torque the hex head all the way without doing any of the other bolts?

Also out of curiosity why would they make the one random hex head different and only on one side of the motor?

[JCunningham]

it says in there 3 passes. 1 for bolt 3 1 for bolt 4