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Old 09-18-2018, 10:42 PM   #15
TRZ06

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaxChris View Post
Did you get it weighted (you in the car) so the front caster sets in and you dial in the camber and toe with you in it?

Weighted track alignment = best alignment. Place I go to charges 120$ each time I want to change my settings, but it is totally worth it.
I didn't sit in the car, but they did ask my weight and accounted for that.
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Old 09-23-2018, 11:51 PM   #16
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On the 1LE, does it need the cam bolts for the struts or are they already installed on the car? I'm trying to find out if I need to buy anything before going in to have the alignment done.
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Old 09-23-2018, 11:55 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Scargoes View Post
On the 1LE, does it need the cam bolts for the struts or are they already installed on the car? I'm trying to find out if I need to buy anything before going in to have the alignment done.
You need nothing. The front bolts are cammed already. You should be able to achieve -2 to -2.3 on the front with no additional hardware.
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Old 09-24-2018, 01:49 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Scargoes View Post
On the 1LE, does it need the cam bolts for the struts or are they already installed on the car? I'm trying to find out if I need to buy anything before going in to have the alignment done.
To clarify further to TRZ06's post, the rear upper suspension link bolts are cammed, but the front uses a slightly different setup. There is a threaded hole on the top of the knuckle that you put a bolt in. This bolt will set the angle of the strut once the strut to knuckle bolts are loose (i.e. have to push the strut to knuckle bolts out far enough to disengage the splines). Aside from that one bolt, all the OE hardware on the car should let you get the specified alignment specs.
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Old 09-24-2018, 02:08 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Alpha1BC View Post
To clarify further to TRZ06's post, the rear upper suspension link bolts are cammed, but the front uses a slightly different setup. There is a threaded hole on the top of the knuckle that you put a bolt in. This bolt will set the angle of the strut once the strut to knuckle bolts are loose (i.e. have to push the strut to knuckle bolts out far enough to disengage the splines). Aside from that one bolt, all the OE hardware on the car should let you get the specified alignment specs.
With the front bolt, are you talking about needing a different bolt then what is on there stock?

Because I was able to achieve the track spec alignment with complete stock hardware and adding absolutely nothing.
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Old 09-24-2018, 03:24 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by TRZ06 View Post
With the front bolt, are you talking about needing a different bolt then what is on there stock?

Because I was able to achieve the track spec alignment with complete stock hardware and adding absolutely nothing.
No, not replacing any of the factory bolts, just sticking the red/bronze SHCS in the top of the knuckle to help as shown here:



This bolt really is only needed for dialing in the alignment with a bit more finesse that just pushing the strut to knuckle bolts out and letting the weight of the car do the alignment since the strut to knuckle bolts aren't cammed. But, since the strut/knuckle bolts are splined, you might have actually been able to turn that bolt and let the splines pull that knuckle around inside the strut bracket similar to how the cammed bolts would work if you just loosened the strut/knuckle nuts and turned the bolts to adjust your alignment?
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Old 09-24-2018, 03:38 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Alpha1BC View Post
No, not replacing any of the factory bolts, just sticking the red/bronze SHCS in the top of the knuckle to help as shown here:



This bolt really is only needed for dialing in the alignment with a bit more finesse that just pushing the strut to knuckle bolts out and letting the weight of the car do the alignment since the strut to knuckle bolts aren't cammed. But, since the strut/knuckle bolts are splined, you might have actually been able to turn that bolt and let the splines pull that knuckle around inside the strut bracket similar to how the cammed bolts would work if you just loosened the strut/knuckle nuts and turned the bolts to adjust your alignment?
No clue actually. I had a performance alignment shop do it. They were able to achieve the track alignment with -2.1 camber both left and right. -1.5 in the rear.
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Old 10-01-2018, 02:16 PM   #22
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Alpha1BC, Thanks for posting that. I was looking at my car this weekend during a wheel swap and didn't see cam bolts on the front. Interesting the way Chevy decided to do this. Now I'm just trying to find a place in the middle of nowhere to do an alignment without just saying 'green is good'
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Old 11-02-2018, 09:31 PM   #23
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Thanks Carguy55 ... Great resource!
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Old 12-04-2018, 11:54 AM   #24
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lol firestone. Find somewhere that works on road-course & autoX cars. Their techs will know and can help you decide what you want.
Night & day difference with turn-in response after I got a bit more camber thrown at the front. They added a bit to the rear too, but I noticed this has hurt my straight line traction. So i'll be having them take some camber out of the rear
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Old 12-12-2018, 09:04 PM   #25
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Anyone have numbers on toe settings as well?
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Old 12-13-2018, 07:35 AM   #26
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I'm looking forward to seeing the results of my track alignment this weekend at Barber MSP. I had a decent amount of push through turns 2 & 3 with the stock alignment, so I'm hoping this helps with that. I can't really tell a difference in handling on the street, but then again it's been in the 30s and 40s here and I barely have any grip at those temps to test it.
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Old 12-13-2018, 07:38 AM   #27
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Anyone have numbers on toe settings as well?
It's on that earlier post that linked the performance/track alignment info.
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Old 12-13-2018, 10:23 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by DatBrotato View Post
lol firestone. Find somewhere that works on road-course & autoX cars. Their techs will know and can help you decide what you want.
Night & day difference with turn-in response after I got a bit more camber thrown at the front. They added a bit to the rear too, but I noticed this has hurt my straight line traction. So i'll be having them take some camber out of the rear

lol i actually went to performance shop for first alignment and they couldnt figure out my clunk issues went to allen tires and they fixed my clunk and i got year alignment for $130 can go back to have them check alignement anytime and did a great job and they also tighten all my endlinks and swaybar mounts for no cost also!
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