07-21-2019, 12:27 PM | #1 |
Drives: 45th anniversary camaro ss Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 131
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Heat soaked starter
Is there a remedy for the starter heat soaking issue. Mine gets so bad at times it make the stabilitrak light come on and the rpm gauge stops working. I replaced the battery to no avail.
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07-21-2019, 12:31 PM | #2 |
Donkey Dick Cam Camaro
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS LS3 M6 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 2,000
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you can wrap the headers or wrap the starter or make your own heat shield
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Bone Stock |
07-21-2019, 04:28 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vance Alabama
Posts: 8,014
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Wrap the headers
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07-21-2019, 06:22 PM | #4 |
Drives: Camaro Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Alabama
Posts: 673
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Was just talking to my wife about this last night. Yours is on whole other level than my issues
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07-22-2019, 06:54 AM | #5 |
old school chevy rodder
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,588
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Yes there is a answer other than wrapping the headers, I have been operating for a long time now flawlessly with my hot engine bay and a stroker thanks to my starter in my sig...……. More torque the powermaster xs 9509 ……...I had replaced the stocker before...…. and its about the same price, I still have a damn near new stock one in a box BTW...LOL next to stock this and that in storage...….. And yes I wrapped the stock starter with a heat blankee….. seems to just hold in heat IMO.... Thank god I don't have the problem you have anymore...and don't have to reset the battery to clear the code or limp somewhere because I did not wait to cool down...…….. And yes its been about 90 lately...
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2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data, Carbon, Nav, RotoFab Dry CAI, Elite x2, Borla ATK, Driveshaft shop
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07-22-2019, 08:19 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: somewhere in MD
Posts: 4,884
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Add an additional drivers side ground from the block to chassis, wrap the headers, wrap the starter, apply heat reflective tape to the starter heat shield, ceramic coat the headers, clean other ground points up, clean the positive connection at the starter up
For me cleaning the connections and adding the additional ground made the largest improvements. I did recently add air to the start up airflow table in cells with hotter coolant temps. Seems to have helped a bit too.
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2010 2SS/RS
Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53 |
07-22-2019, 08:58 AM | #7 |
Drives: 2010 Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: texas
Posts: 119
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I have been battling with the same issue for some time now. I bought a new starter & battery before doing the research and finding that many others were having the same problem. I went about it a bit differently than just grounding the drivers side to the block. I grounded the alternator to my main ground (on the passenger side) then ran a ground to the starter from there. One of the reasons I stumbled across that is the fact that when I thought It was heat soak I used a battery charger to boost my car. When I did it spun like normal so I tried it without the charger and it was back to dragging.
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07-22-2019, 12:32 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vance Alabama
Posts: 8,014
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Ive got grounds added in the front and the rear.
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07-22-2019, 01:40 PM | #9 |
SomeguyK
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 1,947
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What gauge did you all run for your added ground wires?
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TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII
More to come. |
07-22-2019, 03:53 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: somewhere in MD
Posts: 4,884
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8 gauge for any additional grounds and 1 gauge for the battery to chassis ground is what I've used
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2010 2SS/RS
Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53 |
07-22-2019, 04:05 PM | #11 |
SomeguyK
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 1,947
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Thanks. I'm gonna look at upgrading the grounds.
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TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII
More to come. |
07-22-2019, 04:48 PM | #12 |
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Wrap starter and add a ground wire. Works and solved my issue as my last one fried from heat soak. This happens when you shut the car off on these as the heat then traps in the pocket cut out area baking the starters electronics because there is no air flow pulling heat out away etc. The new one no issues since wrapping it and adding the ground wire add on.
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Car mods: never enough!
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07-24-2019, 07:47 PM | #13 |
old school chevy rodder
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,588
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LOL still saying the Starter changed the whole equation...…. The cranking speed that you loose from the heat is more than overcome by the high torque starter for me ; and I had wrap new starter new battery checked grounds and grounded well even bypassed the battery terminal in the engine compartment.
No one else's suggestion like mine would I guarantee to work, and my starter choice kicked butt ASAP and costs the same as a new stock starter all you have to do is clock the starter, and bend the main battery terminal connection to the starter, and make the wire connection a simple round connector instead of the stupid stock plastic connector...... and remove its stupid heat shield that's basically worthless with headers...…. and you have to trash when wrapping a starter unless your just taping it....and yes taping things holds in heat like a sock also... so don't listen to me listen to these guys...…… https://www.amazon.com/Powermaster-9...ews/B004BTBS6G For your consideration from the old fart stuff I knew decades ago when building things... https://www.lsxmag.com/tech-stories/...ssion-engines/ and yes I remember when burgers were 15 cents and gas was about that a gallon...LOL Eventually someone besides me will try the powermaster and be happy with the results like that Aussie who runs a aftermarket starter also...…..
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2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data, Carbon, Nav, RotoFab Dry CAI, Elite x2, Borla ATK, Driveshaft shop
Last edited by christianchevell; 07-24-2019 at 08:02 PM. |
07-26-2019, 11:34 AM | #14 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS, 2018 Colorado Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NC
Posts: 2,207
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