11-28-2021, 10:02 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS, L99 Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 19
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LIFTER tick now full blown knock
Yesterday my lifter tick became a lifter knock so I had it towed. I pulled off the engine cover and saw the right side of the engine was wet. I don’t think the two are related? Being that I still owe a shitload of money on the car, I guess I’m replacing the lifters. Still trying to decide if I should just go ahead and do an LS3 conversion +/- cam swap? Idk bc I live in California and was just told by a mechanic that next year mods will be illegal here? Idk how the hell they plan for that to work….but…. I don’t know a lot much at all about this sort of stuff -Is the cam swap necessary bc it will eventually fail as well or is that just for suping it up more? Getting more horsepower sounds great and all, but my primary goal is just to have this car last me as long as possible so I can pay it off without any other major stuff breaking. I have 125,000 miles on it. Any tips on how to find a shop that actually knows what they are doing and how to do this sort of work on these cars?
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Last edited by kbear951; 11-28-2021 at 10:15 PM. |
11-29-2021, 03:10 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS 6m Join Date: May 2020
Location: Iowa
Posts: 62
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Kind of a lot to unpack here. I can't speak to any of the Cali related problems because thankfully I live in the midwest.
As far as the lifter knock goes there are a few things you or your shop can try. Remove the valve covers and check the rockers for play. Hopefully everything is solid. Next you could remove the intake manifold and then the valley cover. Then you can see into the engine. there are "windows" in the block that allow visual access to the lifters for cylinders 1/2 and 7/8. If these appear fine that doesn't mean the other 12 aren't bad but it does give you some information. Next, drain the oil into a very clean pan and run a magnet through the oil. If anything beyond a tiny amount of fine metal is picked up you have trouble. A cam swap is never "necessary" but it is probably the best way to boost power. But since you owe a lot on the car it might be best consider mods only after you own the car. Having said that, if you have to replace the cam and lifters anyway it might be a good time to upgrade everything. Personally, I wouldn't being thinking about a new cam unless I was able to upgrade the rest of the valvetrain too. And I would certainly being checking the motor over thoroughly (bearings, cylinders, rings, etc.) especially with the mileage that is on yours. Please follow up and let us know how things are playing out. Good luck |
11-29-2021, 06:55 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2012 Camaro SS m6 Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Fla
Posts: 19
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i recently had a lifter tick, and pulling the valvecovers i found one of my rockers loose, even though it was torqued down all the way....
i thought or hoped i had just collapsed a lifter, but i ended up pulling the heads and found my #6 intake lifter spun 90 degrees i ended up pulling the cam and the lobe was chewed up prettty good...luckily the lifter hadnt fragmented apart inside the motor cuz the other lobes looked ok... also this is a cammed car that has been running a cam since april. stock lifters. its crazy, but you would need to take it apart slowly to see what and where the problem lays...find a decent shop, hopefully some recommendations on here / local hot rodders for your area... sucks .... |
11-29-2021, 11:50 PM | #4 | |
Drives: 2010 CGM 2SS/RS LS3 Swapped A6 Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Spring Hill, FL
Posts: 4,574
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Kbear, don't let the mileage put you off. As long as the engine was taken care of and had regular maintenance then mileage means very little on these engines. 125k miles is nothing on an LS that was taken care of. I hydrolocked my original engine, an L99. It had 153,300 miles on it when I disassembled it, and it looked amazing inside. Little to no visible wear, very little oil tarnishing/staining, and fantastic crosshatch in the cylinders. Unfortunately, you seem to have run into the biggest weak spot on the LS engine - the valvetrain (Especially on an L99). The plus side is it doesn't cost an arm and a leg to beef the ole girl up and build a stout engine that can handle much higher power numbers reliably. You just have to build it smart.
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2010 CGM Camaro 2SS LS3 Swapped A6 - GPI LS3 SS1 .647/.638, (224/237, 112 +4, 7º overlap) on CamMotion 8620 core, BTR Platinum .660" Dual Spring kit w/titanium retainers, CHE bronze trunnion upgrade, stock heads milled @ .015, Melling HV 10296 oil pump, TSP 1-7/8" long tube headers (W/Catless Off-road Pipes), Corsa Xtreme 3" Catback, GPI Ported/Rod Mod Intake, Stage 2 Ported Throttle Body, Vararam OTR CAI, Mike Norris Gen 2 catch can + GM 1LE clean side separator, 160º thermostat - Megan Racing adjustable coilovers (lowered 1.75"), MRR M017 10/11" wheels-Tuned by Ryan @ GPI
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12-01-2021, 01:16 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2012 Chevrolet Camaro l99 Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 2,103
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It's unfortunate that you live in Cali because a cam swap with the tune to run it would have your car fail at the inspection shop and then you can't get your registration. So your only option is to have it all fixed to stock condition.
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DSS FX Forged Pistons, Eagle ESP L19 Forged Rods, ARP Head and Main Studs, TSP PRC 260 CNC Ported Heads milled .030, Cometic .040 Head Gaskets, GPI SS3 VVT Camshaft, GM Performance Racing Lifters, CHE Trunnions , Molly Pushrods, Melling 10355HV Oil Pump, Cold Air Inductions CAI, Fast LSXR Intake Manifold, Nick Williams 103 TB, TSP 1 7/8" Longtubes with 3" TSP Exhaust, ZL1 Fuel Pump, Mishimoto Radiator, Mishimoto Oil Cooler, Tru Cool 40k Tranny Cooler, 3600 Circle D Converter, Fluid Dynamics Balancer
Build Thread https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609817 |
12-03-2021, 03:14 PM | #6 |
Drives: T Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: CA
Posts: 803
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L99 car, AFM issues
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12-06-2021, 12:12 AM | #7 |
Drives: 2013 camaro 2ss 1le Join Date: May 2020
Location: las vegas
Posts: 56
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figure I'd ask here than make a new thread. my 55k mile engine recently has developed (well I recently noticed it at least) the trademark hot lifter tick and damn does it make it sound like a hoopty at idle. I'm thinking about finally jumping in with a cam so it would be a good excuse to get new lifters and trays while I'm at it. would ls7 lifters fix the tick permanently? do I have to go aftermarket? I was also looking at some morel 5315s (now 7717) since they're supposed to be better than ls7s for only a bit more and if they won't tick then I'd just go with them.
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2013 Camaro 2SS 1LE w/ RS [Rally Yellow]
Stock + Speed Engineering 1 7/8 LTHs w/ TSP HFCs, Roto-Fab CAI, Innovate DLG1/LC2 Dual WBo2, Smoked Wicker Bill, Self Tuned w/ HPTuners |
12-06-2021, 04:42 AM | #8 | |
Drives: 2012 Chevrolet Camaro l99 Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 2,103
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DSS FX Forged Pistons, Eagle ESP L19 Forged Rods, ARP Head and Main Studs, TSP PRC 260 CNC Ported Heads milled .030, Cometic .040 Head Gaskets, GPI SS3 VVT Camshaft, GM Performance Racing Lifters, CHE Trunnions , Molly Pushrods, Melling 10355HV Oil Pump, Cold Air Inductions CAI, Fast LSXR Intake Manifold, Nick Williams 103 TB, TSP 1 7/8" Longtubes with 3" TSP Exhaust, ZL1 Fuel Pump, Mishimoto Radiator, Mishimoto Oil Cooler, Tru Cool 40k Tranny Cooler, 3600 Circle D Converter, Fluid Dynamics Balancer
Build Thread https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609817 |
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12-06-2021, 07:48 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2013 camaro 2ss 1le Join Date: May 2020
Location: las vegas
Posts: 56
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I see. well I'm not intending to make a million horsepower or revving to the moon so I don't think I'll need $100 a pop balls to the wall nascar grade racing lifters, all I want is 500 to 550 BHP, 7,000 redline, and for this damn ticking to be gone and never return.
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2013 Camaro 2SS 1LE w/ RS [Rally Yellow]
Stock + Speed Engineering 1 7/8 LTHs w/ TSP HFCs, Roto-Fab CAI, Innovate DLG1/LC2 Dual WBo2, Smoked Wicker Bill, Self Tuned w/ HPTuners Last edited by daktah; 12-06-2021 at 08:03 AM. |
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