[MT-SS1LE]

Originally Posted by Dirtbike

Not saying it's the right thing to do, but I would convert it over to R134a. The oils are compatible, and you can get adapter fittings / vacuum pump / and manifold gauges to do the work yourself for less than it costs to have someone refill with the YF stuff. Not to mention the 134a runs about 3-4 degrees cooler, plus is way cheaper to refill down the road. This has been my experience anyway.

Yep, my experience is the same.

Pretty soon the idiots at the EPA and environmental wackos will outlaw A/C altogether to "save the planet".

[ctrlz]

Edit: Deleted what I had here because... completely wrong.
Looked at my car.
The tube between the firewall and the "upper" service port appears to be double-walled. The liquid line enters this tube from the bottom as seen in the picture. The outer part of the double tube carries the liquid to a point where it splits again at the expansion valve on the firewall. The suction line (fatter) exits the expansion valve and continues through the center of the double-walled tube, then it goes a bit front left until it snakes back to the compressor.

Maybe they are using the suction line to help cool the liquid line before it hits the expansion valve and evaporator. A bit of a cheat to increase sub-cooling and get more efficiency?

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...29&postcount=1

[olrocker]

All -

If you look under the hood near the fire wall the production/engine/emission sticker tells you exactly which refrigerant type to use.

The 2016-17 models MIGHT be 134A but I know for a fact all 2018-24 models are 1234yf