[AMICHIGANBZL11LE]

Hi, I was wondering what brake fluid I should use for track days and any other useful tips for track days.

-Thanks

2023 Zl1 1LE

[JSH]

With a brand-new car, use what it's got. This site has sections with a gazillion posts on drag and road course racing.

[Apexslayer]

Castrol SRF

[Caerus]

Originally Posted by AMICHIGANBZL11LE

Hi, I was wondering what brake fluid I should use for track days and any other useful tips for track days.

If you are a beginner, you could probably get by with stock fluid. As a precaution you could bleed all four calipers prior. Depending on you experience level there are many good choices out there. Check out the link:
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...rder=Ascending

Track tips: one could write a book about it here, but there is so much good information on this site, so do a detailed search.

Originally Posted by Apexslayer

Castrol SRF

It is THE BEST in my opinion. I have tried all kinds and this stuff just delivers the best performance and longevity. When I started using it, I did not have to perform as many caliper bleeding as other fluids. It is VERY expensive, but well worth it in the end.

[SFV1LE]

Castrol SRF or Brembo Racing are only fluids I would use, and why bother ever going back to stock fluid. I don't recommend OEM fluid on track even for beginner.

Also, I first tried Motul 660 and it boiled over and leaked through cap seal of reservoir, I was surprised, like Motul oil it's supposed to be world class...

So I switched to Brembo Racing and SRF and have never had ANY boil over issues after many hot track days on very fast brake-testing tracks (like Auto Club Speedway) in advanced groups running top 10 lap times--using both OEM pads and Ferodo DS 1.11 (badass but $$$)

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by JSH

With a brand-new car, use what it's got.

No.
This is bad advice.

Barreling down a straightaway at 140+ mph, do we want to be SURE the fluid is fresh? Yes we do. The performance supplement says to flush with fresh DOT meeting a minimum temp. Castrol SRF, Brembo HTC64T or Endless 650 are excellent fluid for track use on these heavy cars.

Telling a novice that the factory fluid would be ok is bad advice. So many variables come into play with the amount of heat that will generated. Novices tend to over brake which allows the heat to sink deeper into the brake components vs seasoned advanced drivers who minimize time on brake. Driver technique plays a large part. The only way a driver can learn proper braking technique is thru 100% confidence in their brake components. Part of this is recognizing any potential issues, by way of sight, smell, and feel.

I've seen too many drivers have varying levels of trouble, from destroying an expensive splitter to rolling a brand new car all because they didn't flush with fresh fluid.

Fresh fluid is the cheapest insurance a track day driver can buy.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

No.
This is bad advice.

Barreling down a straightaway at 140+ mph, do we want to be SURE the fluid is fresh? Yes we do. The performance supplement says to flush with fresh DOT meeting a minimum temp. Castrol SRF, Brembo HTC64T or Endless 650 are excellent fluid for track use on these heavy cars.

Telling a novice that the factory fluid would be ok is bad advice. So many variables come into play with the amount of heat that will generated. Novices tend to over brake which allows the heat to sink deeper into the brake components vs seasoned advanced drivers who minimize time on brake. Driver technique plays a large part. The only way a driver can learn proper braking technique is thru 100% confidence in their brake components. Part of this is recognizing any potential issues, by way of sight, smell, and feel.

I've seen too many drivers have varying levels of trouble, from destroying an expensive splitter to rolling a brand new car all because they didn't flush with fresh fluid.

Fresh fluid is the cheapest insurance a track day driver can buy.

Mine is three years old and still has the OEM fluid. It's been over 150 many times and looks and smells new.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by JSH

Mine is three years old and still has the OEM fluid. It's been over 150 many times and looks and smells new.

Looking at your signature, I'm thinking you drag race?
If so, your experience is far from road course use and it's not relevant experience. Drag racing is worlds apart form road course use when it comes to braking stresses.

How many times do you go 150 repeatedly within a span of, say, 20 minutes? And within that 20 minutes you are heavily accelerating and braking at other points multiple times.

"Smells new"
That's not gonna cut it as a legit method of understanding brake fluid health.

[Vigilante375]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Looking at your signature, I'm thinking you drag race?
If so, your experience is far from road course use and it's not relevant experience. Drag racing is worlds apart form road course use when it comes to braking stresses.

How many times do you go 150 repeatedly within a span of, say, 20 minutes? And within that 20 minutes you are heavily accelerating and braking at other points multiple times.

"Smells new"
That's not gonna cut it as a legit method of understanding brake fluid health.

Yes, totally different types of driving. With road course racing, you're supposed to change the fluid (per GM) before every event. Which I find excessive but maybe every 3-4 but obviously you need to look at the color of the fluid then that'll give you a good idea of when you need to change it but if you feel like you should do it more often, then do so.

Manufacturers actually say you should change your brake fluid, in general, every 2 years or within a certain mileage. I know it's funny finding those that change their oil, transmission or diff fluid religiously at a certain mileage but then when it comes to the coolant or brake fluid, they could leave it as is. Not knowing you should change them every 2-3 years or X mileage.

[SFV1LE]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Looking at your signature, I'm thinking you drag race?
If so, your experience is far from road course use and it's not relevant experience. Drag racing is worlds apart form road course use when it comes to braking stresses.

How many times do you go 150 repeatedly within a span of, say, 20 minutes? And within that 20 minutes you are heavily accelerating and braking at other points multiple times.

"Smells new"
That's not gonna cut it as a legit method of understanding brake fluid health.

JSH advice is truly dangerous for new road course ppl :-) And seems like no amount of science and experience based information even from GM will change his mind. What does good brake fluid smell like?

JSH have heard of these? Only way you should check fluid, $10-15 and may save your life.

https://www.amazon.com/ITEQ-Liquid-T...9527566&sr=8-3

Motul 660 boils in my fast lap time track sessions, I would boil OEM in 1 good session at Willow Springs.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by SFV1LE

JSH advice is truly dangerous for new road course ppl :-) And seems like no amount of science and experience based information even from GM will change his mind. What does good brake fluid smell like?

.

Smells a bit like fish oil, and like burnt plastic when boiled

[LancevanceZLE]

First thing I do with any new vehicle/new to me vehicle is swap brake fluid for Castrol SRF. All my cars and motorcycle have it.

It has by far the highest wet boiling point. Any brake fluid will attract moisture over time, and the high wet boiling temp means SRF continues to perform where others don't.

Just make sure you change it every 18 months or so. Could be more or less depending on driving style and where you live.

[Shawnqa800720]

Originally Posted by AMICHIGANBZL11LE

Hi, I was wondering what brake fluid I should use for track days and any other useful tips for track days.

-Thanks

2023 Zl1 1LE

As others have said, there is a ton of info on this forum. That can make it daunting to look up what is most important for someone new, which was essentially your ask. I have tried to summarize what I consider the best progression and most important elements for early trackers.

Castrol SRF 100%. Full flush once every 12-18 months, bleed often, but at least every 2 track days. Possibly more often if you leave the nannies (stability control specifically) on during every track session. Nannies will pulse the brakes a TON to keep your car straight and will very quickly boil the OEM and lesser fluids and will certainly require a more frequent bleed schedule, even for SRF. There are few things on track more terrifying than brake fade/failure at an inopportune time - I'd argue this is the most important thing to do for track prep - more important than tires. Safety first.

Once you start feeling comfortable and pushing the limits you can start considering things like track specific brake pads and track specific tires. Unlike the OEM brake fluid, the pads and tires these cars come with are fine for beginner track usage. And honestly, in a ZLE, they'll likely take you through to intermediate and advanced group capability. Do not bother switching those things out until you are beyond the limits of the stock part capability (you'll know what the limits are after you've spent a good amount of time in the seat on track - tough to explain - it is a feel). After that, brake pads and tire upgrades should go hand in hand. You will outdrive either element if you significantly upgrade just one.

...and once you've at the driving capability to change to track-specific tires and pads, the addiction begins and you'll start to notice the other parts of the car that are being "outdriven". By that point, you'll likely have educated yourself enough to know what to do and why. Most of the answers are here on the forum. Finding a good local shop is also important - one that knows track prep, best if for similar cars, but fine if general track rats. Form a relationship and they'll be a great source for a long time.

Similarly, once you are getting close to the limits of the stock tires and brake pads, you should be using the 15W-50 track-spec oil. But, only use on track. It is too thick for daily driving and will destroy your engine over time. My car went into limp mode the one time I left the 15W-50 in for normal daily driving and it was based on oil starvation. Others may say it is fine, but they do not know for sure. Their engine just hasn't failed yet. Just because it doesn't result in immediate failure does not mean it isn't causing steady damage that will ultimately result in failure. Change out the track oil when you are not on track.


If you know you are going to track the car a lot, spending money on a good helmet and harness system (even a Simpson hybrid S for 3-point seat belts) is worth the investment (and it is an investment - a couple thousand $$ easy). A good fit on a helmet is critical to it's functionality. Go to a reputable shop and spend time finding the right fit with a knowledgeable pro. Competition Motorsports has a great helmet fit tutorial online - watch that first so you have a bit of background. My first helmet was comfortable...but after getting a proper fitting helmet, was not a good safety fit. A good helmet should hold the crown of your head and your face firmly in place without pressure points. My first helmet could twist almost fully sideways - which is why it was so comfortable - it was way too loose. Think Ski boots (if you ski). They're never comfortable if they fit right, and optimal performance is based on precise fit which is often not comfortable, but it should not be painful. I'd say a good fitting helmet is tolerable.


Have fun on track and try to find the local club that has the best reputation for safety and instruction for your first track exposures. Once you know the track rules and how to keep yourself safe, you can try different run groups to find a culture that fits you best. But make no mistake - there are often wide discrepancies in the level of instructors between car groups. Most BMW clubs have MSF (Motor Safety Foundation) certified instructors, and the MSF website lists which clubs they are certified with. It is a good start, but not the only barometer. Several clubs close to me are not certified with them and have excellent instructors.

[AZIROC]

If only ONE thing is done... swap to a quality dot 4 fluid.