[mbar]

Originally Posted by JamesNoBrakes

I have a hard time believing sintered is going to last longer. I use them for DH racing and long descents down 50% grades, but rotor heat capacity is a huge deal there too. Its the extended braking where these both shine, but they eat the rotors faster too. They dont glaze like organics, but I have my doubts here, theres always a tradeoff.

Good point. When I spoke over the phone with EBC , they told me that the hardest part converting sintered technology from bike to car use was controlling the rotor wear. It took them several years to develop these pads because at the beginning the rotor wear was substantial.
As noted above, so far after 3 days I got 0.2mm rotor wear, which I think is acceptable considering we have 2mm until we get to minimum thickness.

[mbar]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

Any comments on how these work cold? Right now I switch between 3.12 and OEM for street and autox use and wonder if the EBCs could possibly do both? Quote from EBC site:

.

They work very well from cold. I drove them for a week before my track event. However, I can’t tell what would be the rotor wear if I keep them in all the time. With many track pads that used for DD, rotor wear is accelerated.

[JamesNoBrakes]

I think longer term will be interesting to watch.

I got more aggressive Hawks and the lack of power initially/before heat is noticeable. Not to a dangerous point, but definitely noticeable, as is the stronger bite when warm.

[23Redrocket]

I ran EBC Blue stuff pads on my Z51 vette on both track and street. No issues, however the vette is a little lighter. Went from a 2 min lap to 1:42 at PIR by just switching pads. Very little dust compared to stock and incredible stopping power. This was on stock rotors also.
Just my 2 cents.

[5.M0NSTER]

I just notices the price, that's even lower than Hawks!

https://knsbrakes.com/products/car/5...ms/series/1089

Follow up question: How is the noise on the street? I ask becasue I typically swap in Hawk DTC60s in the spring, do 4-5 track days through the spring/summer/early fall, and then swap back. The Hawk give me good fade resistance/torque and fairly long life with very little daily noise. Just a bit at the very end of stop. I ended up getting 8 track days on a set of Hawks.

I need the same to hold true if I switch.

[mbar]

The DD noise is ok. You can hear a mild squeal during the final stop, but nothing that will turn heads in the street.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by mbar

Judder from hot spotting the rotor / pad deposit

Just curious but when you get brake judder after your multiple track days do you just replace the rotor or do you try honing them?

[mbar]

Originally Posted by m6-lt1

Just curious but when you get brake judder after your multiple track days do you just replace the rotor or do you try honing them?

All of the above. First I try to run hard with track pads at the street. Hoping it will scrap off any material on them. Honing with a drill attachment tool sometimes helps. If all fails and the rotor has enough thickness left, you can try a shop that will turn them. If they know what they are doing , you will only lose 0.2-0.3 mm of thickness.

[Boost Creep]

The Aamco machine at my work can't do rotors this big. The on-car Trucut machine might.