[mbar]

Disclaimer – these pads were used on the sister car to the 1LE, my beloved Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing. The brake system and weight of the car (3800 lb.) is so similar to the 1LE, that in my opinion it’s a valid way to compare between the 2 cars.

Several years ago, I’ve posted here about the Magic Pads (part 1) which were one of my favorite track pads for my 6Gen Camaro – Raybestos ST43. A lot have changed since then and Raybestos started to disappear from the track market.

As a background, I’ve been tracking various high horsepower / heavy cars in the past 10+ years and I’m currently running in the advance group with several organizations such as PCA and BMW.

A few months ago, I’ve seen a post about a new compound from EBC which claims to change the approach for track pads. They’ve created a pad using Sintered Technology, which is widely used in the motorcycle world, but have yet to be used for automobiles. This technology is supposed to increase pad life and to eliminate the bedding process (just drive 2 laps on the track and you are good to go).

In the past, I’ve used other track pads offered by EBC, but I’ve found them to be a better fit for lighter / lower HP cars.

I’ve been thru so many pads in the past years – from stock, Carbotech , Gloc, Ferodo , Pagid , PFC and more. These EBC SR series pads are THE NEW MAGIC PAD. I’ve chose to use the lower friction compound, SR11, which has a crazy linear torque curve (around 0.50 MU). These pads will smash your face into the windshield and are more than enough for aggressive street tires. If you are riding on slicks, you can try their SR21, but in my opinion, SR11 are already aggressive enough for 200TW tires and maybe even more. Modulation was pretty good for such high torque. It took me a couple of days of street driving to get used to it and I was good to go (in the Blackwing it’s better to set the brake pedal for track mode even for street driving).

Now – to the magic part: in the past, I would get no more than 4 days on a track pad. They would just get worn out / get tapered / create a bad rotor judder.
I’m happy to announce that after 3 hard days at VIR (very aggressive on pads), I’ve measured the pads and they lost anywhere from zero to 1 mm in thickness. My rotors lost 1-2 tenths of mm in thickness (similar to the wear I got after a track weekend with stock pads) and more than that – they didn’t even develop thin heat checks!

I’ve let a pro driver try these pads on my car for 1 session and he was pleasantly surprised.

All of this for a reasonable price of ~$300. I’m going to get a lifetime of these pads before they disappear…Please feel free to ask any question you might have.
The king is dead. Long live the new king!

PS- here's a little video with a few hot laps from the weekend
https://youtu.be/_whshb2Acws

[Boost Creep]

[cvp33]

Many of the guys that were at Carbotech went to Gloc and definitely took some genius with them. I switched from Hawk DTC’s 60/70 (very hard on rotors) to Gloc. Definitely interested in hearing more about the EBC’s from other racers.

https://youtu.be/EKU9e19CBHY

[SHessler]

I would be interested if EBC had a viable affordable option, but I've not had good results with EBC in the past.

[RamAir02]

Very cool feedback, thanks for sharing. I've stuck to the OEM Ferodo HP1000 pads since starting HPDE, but I'm about to try the DS1.11 pads at my next event. I killed my last set of OEM Ferodos at my last 3 day event at Watkins Glen.

I was planning to try G-Loc this season as well, but now you have me thinking these EBC pads may be worth a shot.

[mbar]

Originally Posted by RamAir02

Very cool feedback, thanks for sharing. I've stuck to the OEM Ferodo HP1000 pads since starting HPDE, but I'm about to try the DS1.11 pads at my next event. I killed my last set of OEM Ferodos at my last 3 day event at Watkins Glen.

I was planning to try G-Loc this season as well, but now you have me thinking these EBC pads may be worth a shot.

Sounds like you are getting faster
DS1.11 are a great pad. But the price is very steep and not worth it IMHO.
Carbotec/Gloc 12 are good but last not more than 2-3 days. Higher compounds starting to chew up on the rotors. XP10 is good for light weight/novice driver.
Just my opinion. Everybody drives different and on a different track.

[Christian1LE]

Used carbotech 12's last season, this season I switched to DTC 60 along with a new rotor. I might give these a go depending on how the DTC's work for me. Id rather change the compound when I do a new rotor. DTC's have a lot more bite but they don't stop any faster or slower than the carbotech. The carbotech lasted me 17 track days. If the DTC's truly are worse on rotors then I expect to them to not even last a whole year. We will see.

[Ryfly05]

Thanks for the info! 3 trackdays down, I'm close to needing new pads and do need new tires. What is the actual part number that will fit our cars? I looked but couldn't find it.

[mbar]

Originally Posted by Ryfly05

Thanks for the info! 3 trackdays down, I'm close to needing new pads and do need new tires. What is the actual part number that will fit our cars? I looked but couldn't find it.

For SS 1LE
Front: DP81853.15SR11
Rear: DP83023.15SR11

[khcoaching]

Thanks for the info, great data.

I just changed to Cobalts and will have a report after this weekend.

Ken

[JamesNoBrakes]

I have a hard time believing sintered is going to last longer. I use them for DH racing and long descents down 50% grades, but rotor heat capacity is a huge deal there too. Its the extended braking where these both shine, but they eat the rotors faster too. They dont glaze like organics, but I have my doubts here, theres always a tradeoff.

[DaveC113]

At half the price of Ferodo 3.12 I'll have to try them when my 3.12s wear out. Thanks for the post!

Any comments on how these work cold? Right now I switch between 3.12 and OEM for street and autox use and wonder if the EBCs could possibly do both? Quote from EBC site:

"...we have many drivers who use these on the open road with no complaints..."

I know some guys who just leave 3.12s in all the time but I wince when I hit the brakes on cold 3.12s, lol.

[2004YZFR1]

Originally Posted by mbar

Disclaimer – these pads were used on the sister car to the 1LE, my beloved Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing. The brake system and weight of the car (3800 lb.) is so similar to the 1LE, that in my opinion it’s a valid way to compare between the 2 cars.

Several years ago, I’ve posted here about the Magic Pads (part 1) which were one of my favorite track pads for my 6Gen Camaro – Raybestos ST43. A lot have changed since then and Raybestos started to disappear from the track market.

As a background, I’ve been tracking various high horsepower / heavy cars in the past 10+ years and I’m currently running in the advance group with several organizations such as PCA and BMW.

A few months ago, I’ve seen a post about a new compound from EBC which claims to change the approach for track pads. They’ve created a pad using Sintered Technology, which is widely used in the motorcycle world, but have yet to be used for automobiles. This technology is supposed to increase pad life and to eliminate the bedding process (just drive 2 laps on the track and you are good to go).

In the past, I’ve used other track pads offered by EBC, but I’ve found them to be a better fit for lighter / lower HP cars.

I’ve been thru so many pads in the past years – from stock, Carbotech , Gloc, Ferodo , Pagid , PFC and more. These EBC SR series pads are THE NEW MAGIC PAD. I’ve chose to use the lower friction compound, SR11, which has a crazy linear torque curve (around 0.50 MU). These pads will smash your face into the windshield and are more than enough for aggressive street tires. If you are riding on slicks, you can try their SR21, but in my opinion, SR11 are already aggressive enough for 200TW tires and maybe even more. Modulation was pretty good for such high torque. It took me a couple of days of street driving to get used to it and I was good to go (in the Blackwing it’s better to set the brake pedal for track mode even for street driving).

Now – to the magic part: in the past, I would get no more than 4 days on a track pad. They would just get worn out / get tapered / create a bad rotor judder.
I’m happy to announce that after 3 hard days at VIR (very aggressive on pads), I’ve measured the pads and they lost anywhere from zero to 1 mm in thickness. My rotors lost 1-2 tenths of mm in thickness (similar to the wear I got after a track weekend with stock pads) and more than that – they didn’t even develop thin heat checks!

I’ve let a pro driver try these pads on my car for 1 session and he was pleasantly surprised.

All of this for a reasonable price of ~$300. I’m going to get a lifetime of these pads before they disappear…Please feel free to ask any question you might have.
The king is dead. Long live the new king!

PS- here's a little video with a few hot laps from the weekend
https://youtu.be/_whshb2Acws

When you say pad judder is that because of how the pad tapered or from pad deposit? Thanks

[mbar]

Originally Posted by 2004YZFR1

When you say pad judder is that because of how the pad tapered or from pad deposit? Thanks

Judder from hot spotting the rotor / pad deposit