[D K]

Just curious if anyone has done that upgrade on the SS?

I'm looking to make the car very much track focused and considering heim joints and solid bushings.

Are these pieces from GM worth the money, or better to go aftermarket?

[Ryephile]

I'm assuming you're referring to the suspension link and bushing kit? It's cheaper to buy them separately from an online discount retailer, but it's a lot of line items to keep track of and not screw up.

The kit is intended for all FE2 and FE3 equipped Camaro6's, and all the components are needed to match the associated dampers and springs, whether it's the GMPP Lowering kit, or an MRC car reprogrammed with FE4 calibration and FE4 springs and ARB's.

The aftermarket control link options are either horrible stiction-prone polyurethane, or full spherical bearing. Going full-spherical will lower the wheel rates and you'll have to adapt spring and ARB rates accordingly. If you're going to coil-overs anyway, it's just part of the tuning process.

Read the Ask Al regarding different suspension configurations and the lap times they saw at Milford PG. Basically it'll come down to what tires you're trying to run on the track, but the proven OEM combos are:
*Your SS has MRC, and you get the FEA handling kit, FE4 ARB's, springs, and MRC calibration with a Supercar 3-ish tire. Basically convert it to SS 1LE suspension.
*Your SS is non-MRC, and you get the FEA handling kit, FE4 ARB's, and GMPP Lowering kit with a Supercar 3-ish tire.
*You go full-crazy and get the FEA handling kit + DSSV kit and run Supercar 3R's or stickier.

The most important thing is to match your desired tire to the dynamic wheel rate. The bushings are only a small part of that equation.

[D K]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

I'm assuming you're referring to the suspension link and bushing kit? It's cheaper to buy them separately from an online discount retailer, but it's a lot of line items to keep track of and not screw up.

The kit is intended for all FE2 and FE3 equipped Camaro6's, and all the components are needed to match the associated dampers and springs, whether it's the GMPP Lowering kit, or an MRC car reprogrammed with FE4 calibration and FE4 springs and ARB's.

The aftermarket control link options are either horrible stiction-prone polyurethane, or full spherical bearing. Going full-spherical will lower the wheel rates and you'll have to adapt spring and ARB rates accordingly. If you're going to coil-overs anyway, it's just part of the tuning process.

Read the Ask Al regarding different suspension configurations and the lap times they saw at Milford PG. Basically it'll come down to what tires you're trying to run on the track, but the proven OEM combos are:
*Your SS has MRC, and you get the FEA handling kit, FE4 ARB's, springs, and MRC calibration with a Supercar 3-ish tire. Basically convert it to SS 1LE suspension.
*Your SS is non-MRC, and you get the FEA handling kit, FE4 ARB's, and GMPP Lowering kit with a Supercar 3-ish tire.
*You go full-crazy and get the FEA handling kit + DSSV kit and run Supercar 3R's or stickier.

The most important thing is to match your desired tire to the dynamic wheel rate. The bushings are only a small part of that equation.

Thank you

The plan is to run the car in Optima and a few time attack series. This is not a wheel to wheel car.

I saw the ZL1 1LE kit with the new uprights and just curious if it would be more economical to just press out the stock bushings and go through the bushings myself, or if the the 1LE kit has something that cannot be achieved separately - like different geometry.

I'm not doing the DSSV, but instead going with MCS or JRI, maybe even Penske at that point.

I don't want to buy something that I will end up replacing later anyway, or something that will become obsolete in my build down the road.

I will research ask Al

David

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by D K

Thank you

The plan is to run the car in Optima and a few time attack series. This is not a wheel to wheel car.

I saw the ZL1 1LE kit with the new uprights and just curious if it would be more economical to just press out the stock bushings and go through the bushings myself, or if the the 1LE kit has something that cannot be achieved separately - like different geometry.

I'm not doing the DSSV, but instead going with MCS or JRI, maybe even Penske at that point.

I don't want to buy something that I will end up replacing later anyway, or something that will become obsolete in my build down the road.

I will research ask Al

David

"Just pressing out the bushings" is way over simplified.

It is not an easy process, especially the rear cradle bushing, however you are correct in that the bushing set makes a huge difference in the handling of a car and is often overlooked when upgrading suspension.