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A procharger rep told me my D-1SC setup had a surge valve failure.
Someone else on a YouTube video had the same issue and repaired it.
They blamed it on too much boost but I'm only running like 11 lbs.

The issue is I have a fluttering sound and my bap sensor receives mixed readings when my RPMs are dropping.

I'm seriously considering just replace my busted surge valve for something different that wont break, or do you think it's worth repairing the current value?
Thoughts and comments are appreciated.

[oldman]

AFAIK, anything more than 7 psi, you need race BOV or need a real 2nd BOV in the high side. The race BOV is a weld in BTW.

[TJay74]

I chunked the Proflow valve right after I got my setup installed, I had the shop put a 2" Tial on mine. Way better than the 1.5" PF valve, it is noisier than the PF valve but the boost response is alot quicker than the PF valve as well.

[TJay74]

Originally Posted by oldman

AFAIK, anything more than 7 psi, you need race BOV or need a real 2nd BOV in the high side. The race BOV is a weld in BTW.

Odd you say this, Procharger told me multiple times that my D1SC was fine at 10-11 pounds of boost with their standard Proflow valve that comes on the upgraded I/C. It is a weld on style as well.

I still went ahead and had it swapped out, best decision every. It is insane how much faster the boost comes on with the Tial 2" valve versus the 1.5" PF valve.

Part of the boost response is due to the way each of the valves operates, the PF valve uses a butterfly valve where the Tial uses a sleeve to close off the port.

[oldman]

This is what I know, based on the stage II intercooler, the base no welded (bung and hose) proflow valve is good for 7 PSI. The 2" red race valve is good for more, but even that is limited. If you have the bung, it is a pain weld in process for the race valve.

I'm not sure I'd put an stock into what Procharger says or does not say. The OP clearly says there is a failure, that IMO is well known above 7 PSI.

For me with the bung, going to my target of 709 WHP, I intended on getting a real hose mounted BOV for the bottom of the intercooler, as well as a valve for the high side, probably weld on to intercooler pipe. I have no comment on a cheaper or simpler solution. I only know what works.

I have no comment on the HO intercooler which IMO is misnamed.

[TJay74]

Yeah I watched the shop cut my old BOV bung off, then weld on the new bung and then grind the opening larger. From the time I came into the shop and left it was 2.5 hrs worth of work. He had the front nose off of the car in 20 minutes while I was standing there.

I like the Tial BOV especially that it is mounted solid to the front of the intercooler. Mine is done for now as I am not interested in reducing the noise by piping the BOV exhaust back into the system as of now.