[The Maverick]

I took my 2021 V6 into my local dealer earlier this month at just over 500 miles for the freebie oil change. Other than what I took to be a "customer service" inquiry asking if I knew what my oil life indicator said and if I was sure I wanted my oil changed, no issues.

[MR's 2SS]

I do my own oil changes on my trucks and bikes. I just got the Camaro and I have jacked it up using the hockey pucks on the jacks. Ive swapped the wheels and tires to a winter set. Ill be doing an oil change soon as I have almost 500 miles. I have 2 jacks in the shop at work and I can lift from 2 points. I have not established where Im going to put jack stands. It is crowded and fragile looking under there. A lot easier crawling right under the F-250 on a cardboard sheet.
As I understand it the 0w 40 is actually the recommendation for track use? The manual says to use the 0w but if not available 5w-30 dexos 1 full synth may be used for street use. The car is about to become my wifes DD. Nothing even close to track use. I use Valvoline 5 qt jugs 5w-30 from Amazon. $69.99 for a case of 3 jugs. Im going to keep using that across the board. Its Dexos approved. It says Gen-2 but in the green square before the wording it has a 1. Not sure what all that is.
I usually do 5000 mile changes on the other vehicles. Ill do at least 2 oil changes in the first 5,000 miles for break in as well as the tranny and rear. Ive been using Redline in the Harley and their gear oil definitely made my trans shift smoother. Im thinking Ill use that in the trans and rear.
I think I will ultimately keep with the 5,000 mile intervals. It makes it easy for the wife to know for sure when shes due. If your talking garage queen doing very low miles I would get the best lubes available and do a yearly change of everything. I do the boat motor oil at the end of the season so the engines dont sit all winter with contaminants in the oil. Sludge settling tightly never to be cleaned out again. Maybe acids... Same with the Harleys. End of season oil change before storage.
I think for the most part normal maint. is part of the ownership experience. I enjoy working on my vehicles.
Safety first... The guy with the quick jack has the deal there. Theres also a company making nice rubber ramps that are a low slope so the air dam doesnt hit before the tires.
Im actually looking forward to getting the Camaro up on 4 jack stands and changing all the fluids.
Just dont have it all figured out yet.

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by MR's 2SS

I do my own oil changes on my trucks and bikes. I just got the Camaro and I have jacked it up using the hockey pucks on the jacks. Ive swapped the wheels and tires to a winter set. Ill be doing an oil change soon as I have almost 500 miles. I have 2 jacks in the shop at work and I can lift from 2 points. I have not established where Im going to put jack stands. It is crowded and fragile looking under there. A lot easier crawling right under the F-250 on a cardboard sheet.
As I understand it the 0w 40 is actually the recommendation for track use? The manual says to use the 0w but if not available 5w-30 dexos 1 full synth may be used for street use. The car is about to become my wifes DD. Nothing even close to track use. I use Valvoline 5 qt jugs 5w-30 from Amazon. $69.99 for a case of 3 jugs. Im going to keep using that across the board. Its Dexos approved. It says Gen-2 but in the green square before the wording it has a 1. Not sure what all that is.
I usually do 5000 mile changes on the other vehicles. Ill do at least 2 oil changes in the first 5,000 miles for break in as well as the tranny and rear. Ive been using Redline in the Harley and their gear oil definitely made my trans shift smoother. Im thinking Ill use that in the trans and rear.
I think I will ultimately keep with the 5,000 mile intervals. It makes it easy for the wife to know for sure when shes due. If your talking garage queen doing very low miles I would get the best lubes available and do a yearly change of everything. I do the boat motor oil at the end of the season so the engines dont sit all winter with contaminants in the oil. Sludge settling tightly never to be cleaned out again. Maybe acids... Same with the Harleys. End of season oil change before storage.
I think for the most part normal maint. is part of the ownership experience. I enjoy working on my vehicles.
Safety first... The guy with the quick jack has the deal there. Theres also a company making nice rubber ramps that are a low slope so the air dam doesnt hit before the tires.
Im actually looking forward to getting the Camaro up on 4 jack stands and changing all the fluids.
Just dont have it all figured out yet.

Mobil1 0W-40 ESP Formula is the recommended oil, other oils are "approved" for non-track use... Personally, I'm using Mobil1 0W-40 ESP Formula and nothing else, it is what is recommended, if it is good enough for "Track Use" it'll be great for street use... Cheap insurance...

You bought a $40k+ car, roughly $100 for an oil change shouldn't be an issue...

[MR's 2SS]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

Mobil1 0W-40 ESP Formula is the recommended oil, other oils are "approved" for non-track use... Personally, I'm using Mobil1 0W-40 ESP Formula and nothing else, it is what is recommended, if it is good enough for "Track Use" it'll be great for street use... Cheap insurance...

You bought a $40k+ car, roughly $100 for an oil change shouldn't be an issue...

Yea I dont disagree with you at all. Im not discounting the use of the recommended 0w. Its definitely not about the money. Its about keeping the one oil in stock and my belief all of this new synth is so good that it really doesnt matter. I heard the 0w was hard to find. But I havnt really looked into it. And I have no idea what the cost is but Im sure the Mobil 1 costs less than Amsoil or Royal Purple or maybe theres a Lucas in that spec.
If the recommended oil was something I believed was of lower quality I would never use that. My point is any high quality full synth changed regularly is going to be a good choice.
I have never used the recommended Harley oil in any of my bikes going back to the 70's because I thought it was crap. Might be OK now but it was definitely crap in the 70s and there were a dozen better choices.
I think change intervals and filter quality have more impact than brand of oil within the proper spec.
Ive been responsible for fleet maint on heavy trucks and equipment for nearly 50 years. Light commercial trucks, boats, motorcycles of my own and others. I shifted to synthetics in 1988 when a new Peterbilt I bought with Rockwell rears had a recommended break in fluid change. The rears came with 500,000 mile warrantees. If you changed to full synth gear lube after break in, they upped the warrantee to 750,000 miles with zero cost. Ive used full synth in everything since with the exception of the 78 Harley Shovelhead because of its age. It already seeps a bit of oil and its been widely claimed that if you put full synth in them they will start to leak profusely. The oil in that bike has been changed at 1,000 mile intervals for 42 years. Still runs great.
I actually dont believe theres appreciable difference between the top tier oils. They are all outstanding. If you wanted to make a case that the 0w-40 is better because of the range over 5w-30 I agree with you.
Ive also been assure the NAPA oils are really Valvoline. But I also heard that although thats true they may not be paying for the full additive package and so thats a problem for me.
Castrol shows a 0w40 but its not DEXOS approved that I can see on the label.
Every time Ive searched the Mobil 1 its been out of stock.
If I cant buy it its not a consideration.
I have cases of Valvoline. 5w-30. Its DEXOS approved. And readily available.

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by MR's 2SS

Yea I dont disagree with you at all. Im not discounting the use of the recommended 0w. Its definitely not about the money. Its about keeping the one oil in stock and my belief all of this new synth is so good that it really doesnt matter. I heard the 0w was hard to find. But I havnt really looked into it. And I have no idea what the cost is but Im sure the Mobil 1 costs less than Amsoil or Royal Purple or maybe theres a Lucas in that spec.
If the recommended oil was something I believed was of lower quality I would never use that. My point is any high quality full synth changed regularly is going to be a good choice.
I have never used the recommended Harley oil in any of my bikes going back to the 70's because I thought it was crap. Might be OK now but it was definitely crap in the 70s and there were a dozen better choices.
I think change intervals and filter quality have more impact than brand of oil within the proper spec.
Ive been responsible for fleet maint on heavy trucks and equipment for nearly 50 years. Light commercial trucks, boats, motorcycles of my own and others. I shifted to synthetics in 1988 when a new Peterbilt I bought with Rockwell rears had a recommended break in fluid change. The rears came with 500,000 mile warrantees. If you changed to full synth gear lube after break in, they upped the warrantee to 750,000 miles with zero cost. Ive used full synth in everything since with the exception of the 78 Harley Shovelhead because of its age. It already seeps a bit of oil and its been widely claimed that if you put full synth in them they will start to leak profusely. The oil in that bike has been changed at 1,000 mile intervals for 42 years. Still runs great.
I actually dont believe theres appreciable difference between the top tier oils. They are all outstanding. If you wanted to make a case that the 0w-40 is better because of the range over 5w-30 I agree with you.
Ive also been assure the NAPA oils are really Valvoline. But I also heard that although thats true they may not be paying for the full additive package and so thats a problem for me.
Castrol shows a 0w40 but its not DEXOS approved that I can see on the label.
Every time Ive searched the Mobil 1 its been out of stock.
If I cant buy it its not a consideration.
I have cases of Valvoline. 5w-30. Its DEXOS approved. And readily available.

Here you go, $6.39/qt from RockAuto... https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...Bb1OF4NP3Bk%3D

$63.90 for oil and probably $8.00 for a filter...

[vtirocz]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

Here you go, $6.39/qt from RockAuto... https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...Bb1OF4NP3Bk%3D

$63.90 for oil and probably $8.00 for a filter...

I think that's the best price I've seen for the Mobil1 0w-40 ESP. Speedway Motors had maybe a better deal a couple years ago, but only with a rebate. Shipping (to me) from Rock Auto is ~$10, then need to add tax.

[Seniorrs]

Y'all are making me glad I got a v6.$30 oil change 5-30 always in stock.Runs great on 87 oct. 24.6 mpg by computer.Same rear diff as V8.Can rotate tires, less ins. Cost.All I have to do to be happy is never drive or race a V8.

[ctrlz]

Not sure we helped len get the free early oil change he wanted.
If he gets particular about which "free" oil they are using, I doubt it will up their enthusiasm. Not saying they should use the wrong oil, but he seems to have an uphill battle already.

[UnknownJinX]

Originally Posted by JT58

You should be able to change the oil whenever you want- although 500-1000 miles is a bit too soon in my opinion. I would wait until at least 1500 miles or preferably 2000 or 2500 miles. Then they should not have an issue changing it. I did my Silverado truck at 2700 miles at the dealership as the first one was free.



If you really want to change it sooner, it is so easy to do yourself. You just need jacks, jack stands, oil change pan and a few basic tools. Read the posts, watch videos.

Track preparation manual actually does recommend an oil change at 500 miles. That's an official document.

[Rock-It Man]

OK so your dealer is an idiot for not agreeing to change your oil per your request.

But still, the "break-in" oil change is an outdated idea, so don't worry be happy.

However, if you can't stop worrying, get some ramps and do it yourself. You won't have to worry about lift points or the dealer.

But do me a favor: don't listen to people who tell you the car has to be level to get all the oil out. That oil plug is at the back of the of pan for a reason. And do get a torque wrench and torque the plug to 215 in.lbs. because you sound like an OCD person who would otherwise over tighten. Over tightening is bad news.

[TP2SS]

I'd be curious to know the "computer's" algorithm for % of life.
I had mine changed shortly before putting her away for the winter, and she's been in a storage unit (unheated) since mid Oct. I go start her up about every 2-3 weeks and run for 30 minutes.
Just happened to be scrolling thru the DIC today and its saying I'm at 64% life.
WTF????

[cdrptrks]

Print this off and bring it in: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour..._guide-min.pdf

"Please note: It is recommended that the first oil change occur at 500 miles."

Also using a shop's alignment rack for an oil change may scrape your front splitter if you have one. I have to bring two lengths of a few feet of 2x12 board with me to get onto local Hunter alignment racks without scraping. Also make sure you get the recommended dexos2 Mobil1 ESP 0W-40 ESP for your free oil changes if you plan to track the car. It is unlikely that any other shops will keep it in stock besides GM dealerships. Otherwise dexos 5w-30 is also acceptable to maintain powertrain warranty if not tracking the car.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by Rock-It Man

OK so your dealer is an idiot for not agreeing to change your oil per your request.

But still, the "break-in" oil change is an outdated idea, so don't worry be happy.

However, if you can't stop worrying, get some ramps and do it yourself. You won't have to worry about lift points or the dealer.

But do me a favor: don't listen to people who tell you the car has to be level to get all the oil out. That oil plug is at the back of the of pan for a reason. And do get a torque wrench and torque the plug to 215 in.lbs. because you sound like an OCD person who would otherwise over tighten. Over tightening is bad news.

It isn't an "outdated idea" at all. It's based on engineering and science. The High Performance supplement guides you to a more thorough break-in process and has you change the oil at 500 -and- 1500 miles while the standard break-in is for 1500 miles only.

Some manufacturers put additives in the oil from the factory (these motors do NOT have additives in the oil) and you need to run the engine for a minimum number of miles before the first change. This was the case with an Acura I bought new about 15 years ago. The people that designed the engine also designed the break-in process to go with it.

[UnknownJinX]

Originally Posted by ember1205

It isn't an "outdated idea" at all. It's based on engineering and science. The High Performance supplement guides you to a more thorough break-in process and has you change the oil at 500 -and- 1500 miles while the standard break-in is for 1500 miles only.



Some manufacturers put additives in the oil from the factory (these motors do NOT have additives in the oil) and you need to run the engine for a minimum number of miles before the first change. This was the case with an Acura I bought new about 15 years ago. The people that designed the engine also designed the break-in process to go with it.

I think all Honda's have that special break-in oil you gotta keep in the engine until the Maintenance Minder tells you to change it out.

My Camaro actually has a few metallic specks on the dipstick and that's why I changed the oil early.