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Old 01-16-2021, 08:21 PM   #15
carguy55

 
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Originally Posted by That1guy_tim View Post
Thanks for that info 180$ isn't a bad deal at all. Might jump on these
You guys realize this post is about front lower front link, not control arms?
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Old 01-17-2021, 12:52 AM   #16
Mountain

 
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I think when he said “control arms” he meant the links.
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Old 01-17-2021, 10:35 AM   #17
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From what I can see BMR has rear control arms, not these front lower links. But if you find them please post a link (web link that is lol)
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Old 01-17-2021, 11:59 AM   #18
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https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...687&superpro=0
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Old 01-26-2021, 03:41 PM   #19
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Very good. Something I'm going to look at. Thanks
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Old 01-26-2021, 04:51 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Mountain View Post
And 3 years later, someone who's had the FE4 front radius links in hand finally takes a good look at what they are.

I've been wondering why the FE3 bushing was so different (and more expensive) than the FE2/FE3/FEA bushing...

The only reason I can think of why GM would do this would be related to NVH, but why and why on the ZL1 and SS 1LE? My thinking is that it must be related to something with the MRC struts: Maybe them being structurally stiffer, accompanied by the spherical-jointed lateral link, required something a bit softer to go on somewhere...

Anyway, thanks for posting up!
Helps to combat the pogoing effect of MRC dampers at low speeds.
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Old 04-03-2021, 02:01 PM   #21
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Add me to the list...driver's side only from what I can see. I think it happened a year or more ago. I only drove on the stock tires but it is possible that the first owner may have used a sticky set of track tires. The stain definitely was not there when I bought the car. I thought it was some liquid that got on the car while driving but hydraulic fluid from the bushing leaking makes more sense since it is not on the underside of the car.

Maybe this is why my shifter shakes back and forth quite a bit more than it used to while in gear? I did not notice any change in handling feel or lap times although I was less familiar with the car's limits before the fluid leaked so lap times might not be a fair point of comparison.

Think it is safe to continue driving the way it is indefinitely? Will the bushing fail or cause additional tire wear now that the hydraulic fluid has leaked out?

Will I need to take the car in for another alignment if I install new bolts and FEA (ZL1 1LE) links or BMR spherical bearings on the OEM links?
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Old 04-03-2021, 04:32 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by cdrptrks View Post
Add me to the list...driver's side only from what I can see. I think it happened a year or more ago. I only drove on the stock tires but it is possible that the first owner may have used a sticky set of track tires. The stain definitely was not there when I bought the car. I thought it was some liquid that got on the car while driving but hydraulic fluid from the bushing leaking makes more sense since it is not on the underside of the car.

Maybe this is why my shifter shakes back and forth quite a bit more than it used to while in gear? I did not notice any change in handling feel or lap times although I was less familiar with the car's limits before the fluid leaked so lap times might not be a fair point of comparison.

Think it is safe to continue driving the way it is indefinitely? Will the bushing fail or cause additional tire wear now that the hydraulic fluid has leaked out?

Will I need to take the car in for another alignment if I install new bolts and FEA (ZL1 1LE) links or BMR spherical bearings on the OEM links?
Yours's is doing it too! That makes 2 of us. Yes you'll need a new alignments after you change these. I'm still running on mine but have the parts in hand so maybe do it this summer.
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Old 04-03-2021, 09:50 PM   #23
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Ok let me know how difficult and time consuming it is if you do the swap yourself. I did the passenger side front lower rear link myself after bending mine sliding across the curb sideways at MSRH and it was pretty easy but it looked hard to get to the front lower front link bolts.
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Old 06-03-2021, 08:29 AM   #24
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So, I swapped out the FE4 links for the FEA links last night. Mine weren’t leaking, but I wanted to try them out to see if I noticed any improvement (steering feel or maybe slightly better tire wear/improved front grip). Slim chance I’ll be able to notice much from my butt dyno, but the bushing design, at least, seems to be markedly stiffer. Both links have rubber (NR) bushings, but different designs (not sure what the difference is between FEA and FE2/3 links as the design is the same and they are rubber, too; likely durometer).

The swap isn’t too hard, really, but you will have to cut the bolt at the bushing to remove the original link. That or unbolt the side coolers to allow room to remove the bolt. My tip would be to pop out the small brake duct extensions and make sure you have an 18mm crows foot to make torquing the nut at the bushing possible (tight fit for a socket with the side coolers there).

I haven’t driven the car yet.
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Old 06-03-2021, 08:38 AM   #25
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The FEA bushing looks to be better for track driving than the FE4 in that the FEA bushing is stiffer, but also the design allows a bit easier rotation of the joint. The FEA link’s inner bushing is keyed-in (and molded in place) to the outer bushing, allowing the inner bushing to rotate some but still controlling lateral/fore-aft movements. The FE4 bushing is an entire molded piece, with, from what I can tell, fluid at the “void” areas and incorporating rubber inserts to help control lateral/fore-aft movements.

https://youtube.com/shorts/7kFo7iVQhVg?feature=share

Last edited by Mountain; 06-03-2021 at 08:49 AM.
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Old 06-03-2021, 06:52 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain View Post
The FEA bushing looks to be better for track driving than the FE4 in that the FEA bushing is stiffer, but also the design allows a bit easier rotation of the joint. The FEA link’s inner bushing is keyed-in (and molded in place) to the outer bushing, allowing the inner bushing to rotate some but still controlling lateral/fore-aft movements. The FE4 bushing is an entire molded piece, with, from what I can tell, fluid at the “void” areas and incorporating rubber inserts to help control lateral/fore-aft movements.

https://youtube.com/shorts/7kFo7iVQhVg?feature=share
Thanks for the info
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Old 06-04-2021, 03:49 PM   #27
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Thanks for the info
You're welcome. I'll get some driving in the car this weekend and give my impressions during street driving.
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Old 06-05-2021, 05:30 PM   #28
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So, overall, not a big difference in ride feel between the FE4 and FEA link. I found myself easily getting used to the FEA and sorta losing any sense of a difference.

What I did notice, as immediate, initial impressions is:
-Ride harshness over bumps, bad road surfaces is about the same between the two links.
-In "Touring", but seemingly not "Sport" or "Track", over uneven surfaces between the right and left of the car seems to cause more of a bouncing ("pogo") effect, side-to-side, I don't remember as pronounced with the FE4 link.
-Call me crazy, but I think there is a slightly better steering feel/feel of the front tires. It is pretty minor.
-Also, call me crazy, but the front end definately feels... more in-tune to the ride frequency of the car, at least in "Touring". I did most of my driving in "Touring". I specifically remember the last time driving my car, noting I did not like the front damper tuning in "Touring" as it felt a bit over-active compared to the rear. With the FEA link, the car definitely feels more in-tune with the rear. The front just seems to feel a bit better damped or controlled than what I remember with the FE4. Not something you'll notice not thinking about it and just enjoying the drive, as I caught myself forgetting, but there when I payed attention.
-Brake dive seems a touch reduced.

I wish I did a better back-to-back comparison, with driving much sooner on the FE4 link to when I switched to the FEA.

I could be off on my impressions, but those are the thoughts I had within the first 30-45 min of driving.

Curious to hear others feedback when they do the install.
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