[Vne182]

I'm new here, hi Everybody. I bought the only new manual, turbo I could find, a stripper LS. I love the simplicity and so far the fuel mileage. I especially love the handling and her ability to rotate, the chassis is fantastic! Plus I only paid about $21k!

I was worried yesterday that the car felt a little slow. I considered that maybe the dealer filled her up with regular instead of 91 octane. After removing the muffler yesterday and adding straight pipes past the axle, maybe I disrupted the computer's sensitivity to back pressure? The car only has 450 miles now.
I also took apart the intake to check out the filter and sound baffle. I did have to clear a CEL code after unplugging the maf sensor.

So here's my question: Since there's no boost gauge on the LS, I hooked up my old bluetooth OBDII to run the Torque app. The boost reading I'm getting through the OBDII is only showing max boost of around 8 psi. Would that be 1+bar (14.7 psi / 1 atmosphere) plus 8 psi? That would figure around 22.7 psi, what my car would need to make at 5,000' above sea level to make 295Ib' of torque? Does anybody else get 8 psi through their OBDII?

[Vne182]

I traded my Abarth, the reason why I thought my new Camaro was just so quiet.

[Start The Machine]

Hey man, you should post in the 2.0T section. Nobody is going to see it here.

Yes, anything below 91 octane absolutely kills this car. It will take a full tank of 91 to get the ECU to relearn the higher required octane. A bottle of octane booster might help as well. (It's extremely common for dumb asses at the dealership to put 87 in the tank.)

A straight pipe does nothing for performance gain, nor does it affect back pressure. This car is not affected by back pressure or lack there of.

Unfortunately, you can't get an accurate boost reading through the OBDII Port on this car.

The only way to get an accurate boost pressure reading is running a vacuum line from a Throttle Body Spacer with an 1/8" NPT port to an Analog or Digital Boost Gauge.

[wookwook]

bingo, read the preceding thread. I never saw a code in the terms of your classic overboost, BUT there IS something here..... needs some industrious research by a competent shop to confirm, its beyond my skill level.

Machine - There does seem to be a slight delta leaning rich or lean depending on the exhaust, but as you say the end result is mute because of fuel trims working which I saw/have logs for. I am hoping zzp will be able to find a better sweet spot to pull any gains to be had from my exhaust swap, but as it is, no increases yet, but based on my original tune- haven't adjusted the air tables yet, hopefully today.

(of course we would be needing an official boost map from HPT logs....)

W.

[Vne182]

Originally Posted by Start The Machine

The only way to get an accurate boost pressure reading is running a vacuum line from a Throttle Body Spacer with an 1/8" NPT port to an Analog or Digital Boost Gauge.

Thanks! I'll let it run through a fresh tank of 91 and see how it does. Also, which 2.0T section? I thought this was the correct place for a thread (I4 Turbo LTG Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons).

I will be ordering a mechanical boost gauge, I will really like the idea of using this gauge mount: JRE SINGLE GAUGE POD 2016-2019 CAMARO

[JJ2218]

Yes, the dealer put 87 octane in mine. It was pinging like crazy. It will take a few tanks of premium to get to normal. The way these engines deliver power (IMHO) make it feel slower than it actually is.

[wookwook]

I think your in the right place anyways.
same here with the gas. if your stock you should be making about 18-19 psi. That is factory level in the ecu. One doesn't just point the boost rate higher or simply open things up on the ends of the air flow. car will do contortions to keep the torque levels at the defined levels in the tables. What ur talking about is the MAP pressure minus barro around 36.2-14.6 = 21.6 and that's at 112 percent of demanded torque @339 on my example. You can't get that with out an adjustment of the torque table. Especially with the DA you are talking about. If you really love the straight pipes god bless you, and since you have some goals, definitely give HPTuner strong consideration.

Some more musing and I don't know if there is a volunteer drive with the MAF unplugged, but I also suspect its possible a car that lost boost has gone into Speed Density Mode. That is what would happen if the MAF is not being used to measure the air volume. It goes to use volume tables and those tables might be off due to the straight pipes. GM uses MAF because its more a precise way to manage the engine strategies. Ford uses DS with Volume tables.

Theres a lot to learn.

[Start The Machine]

Originally Posted by Vne182

Thanks! I'll let it run through a fresh tank of 91 and see how it does. Also, which 2.0T section? I thought this was the correct place for a thread (I4 Turbo LTG Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons).

I will be ordering a mechanical boost gauge, I will really like the idea of using this gauge mount: JRE SINGLE GAUGE POD 2016-2019 CAMARO

Sorry, I thought this was originally posted in the "forced induction" section. Anything and everything 2.0T, no matter what the topic is, is generally posted in this I4 Turbo LTG Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons section. You are in the correct place.

Those gauge mounts are perfect.

[Vne182]

Originally Posted by wookwook

I think your in the right place anyways.
same here with the gas. if your stock you should be making about 18-19 psi. That is factory level in the ecu. One doesn't just point the boost rate higher or simply open things up on the ends of the air flow. car will do contortions to keep the torque levels at the defined levels in the tables. What ur talking about is the MAP pressure minus barro around 36.2-14.6 = 21.6 and that's at 112 percent of demanded torque @339 on my example. You can't get that with out an adjustment of the torque table. Especially with the DA you are talking about. If you really love the straight pipes god bless you, and since you have some goals, definitely give HPTuner strong consideration.

Some more musing and I don't know if there is a volunteer drive with the MAF unplugged, but I also suspect its possible a car that lost boost has gone into Speed Density Mode. That is what would happen if the MAF is not being used to measure the air volume. It goes to use volume tables and those tables might be off due to the straight pipes. GM uses MAF because its more a precise way to manage the engine strategies. Ford uses DS with Volume tables.

There's a lot to learn.

I've played around with boost before, I added a GT67 Turbo with meth injection on my '02 SS for 600 hp. I also had a GXP Solstice with a nice ECU reflash for 320 HP. My Abarth was just fine with a CAI for more turbo noises.

I'm not too big about making huge power, I've been there and I don't want to re-engineer the entire powertrain to be reliable after a significant power increase.

My goals are just to fully enjoy a turbo 4 cylinder. The only thing I don't like about the car is that it seems like GM did everything they could to hide the turbo. It's too damn quiet, I can't even hear the compressor wheel! As for tuning, 320 HP like my Solstice would be fine. I definitely want less torque management between the 1-2 shift, I want full throttle at full throttle! Also, why is the intercooler sandwiched between the radiator and A/C heat exchanger?

[wookwook]

Nice - As for me, I see that as a solid build.
That's all easily doable and not too much expense.

There's a ton of info here. Probably the first encounter is going see is ecu tune vs race chip. All you gotta do is read and decide what is right for you. A8 Tune is going to be about $1K. You can get a good experience (short term/long term) with race chip. Some will call out race chip and that's fine because they are still in the stone ages. It does add a punch w/o touching the ECU (if warranty matters).

Catted DP and the JacFab recirc valve and tune will get you there. I'm a M6 so the A8s should be able to offer more info.

[Vne182]

Originally Posted by wookwook

Catted DP and the JacFab recirc valve and tune will get you there. I'm a M6 so the A8s should be able to offer more info.

I'm a M6 too. $1000 is rediculous for an ECU reflash, my Solstice 2.0L Turbo tune was $220. I guess I'm going to patiently await something less expensive. As for a piggy back I'll have to do some more digging.

[Start The Machine]

Originally Posted by Vne182

I'm a M6 too. $1000 is rediculous for an ECU reflash, my Solstice 2.0L Turbo tune was $220. I guess I'm going to patiently await something less expensive. As for a piggy back I'll have to do some more digging.

An ECU tune doesn't cost $1000.00 I think he's talking about tuning the A8 transmission, you obviously have an M6. Even then, automatic transmission tuning comes with an ECU tune. Not sure what he's talking about there.

Anyways, you can get a decent tune around $300-$600 from Trifecta, Vermont, maybe BNR and sometimes from ZZP. Whatever you do, DO NOT go with RPM Motorsports.

[cooper1965]

Originally Posted by Vne182

So here's my question: Since there's no boost gauge on the LS, I hooked up my old bluetooth OBDII to run the Torque app. The boost reading I'm getting through the OBDII is only showing max boost of around 8 psi. Would that be 1+bar (14.7 psi / 1 atmosphere) plus 8 psi? That would figure around 22.7 psi, what my car would need to make at 5,000' above sea level to make 295Ib' of torque? Does anybody else get 8 psi through their OBDII?

You can read boost just fine through the obdII port. My P3 does it, HPTuners VCM scanner does it, and your torque app will also do it. You just need to select manifold (or absolute manifold) pressure.

[Start The Machine]

Originally Posted by cooper1965

You can read boost just fine through the obdII port. My P3 does it, HPTuners VCM scanner does it, and your torque app will also do it. You just need to select manifold (or absolute manifold) pressure.

With the "Torque App"?